well some days are just going to good. Putting the steering wheel back on I snapped the threads right off. Any advice where to get a new (used) part so I can fix this. Also how do I fix it. Thank you
Repair depends on several factors. What size threads are those? What type of metal is used? What is dia.of "through" hole and is it needed or used? I ***ume the steering wheel bolts to that round piece which slips over the threads and is held with a key, correct? Then the nut is screwed down to keep the steering wheel on, correct? The reason I ask all this is because you could thread another piece of rod and carefully TIG weld it to the broken off piece so threads match.
If the hole in the center of the shaft isn't used, you could tap it & use a bolt. Probably go to a 3/8"or 7/16" bolt with a washer. After all it's the key & taper doing all the work.
I’m all new to this hot rod world and I no idea what the little tube inside the shaft is for. I know I can move it by grabbing on to it and pulling with vise grips pretty easily. I like your idea of tapping the inside. Might have to grind bolt head a little bit for the steering wheel center. Pull center tube out Grind the broken piece flush Tap it Bolt it with washer maybe lock washer How long of bolt do you think?
Your probably right but it didn’t have a horn in the center then and I installed a ****on in dash. So I could just pull it
Steering box looks like ‘32, or ‘33-‘34. There are two different sector housings, ‘32 and the ‘33-‘34 housing which is different, gaskets and small parts are the same. I like the tap and bolt solution, I only gave the above information in case you ever need parts to freshen it up.
There's no way I'd stick a bolt in the middle of that broken shaft. I value my life too much. Find the casting numbers on the box and post a pic of them. And some nice clear pics of all views, all sides. Somebody will be able to tell you exactly what it is and then you can get the correct part. If the sector shaft is square where the pitman connects, it's an A column. If there is a splined end on the sector and a large nut holds the pitman on, it's 32 and up. Since the column housing in your car is not stock, the shaft may be modified as well. I'd recommend taking it all apart and have it ready to compare to a replacement you might find. Maybe it is a different length. Through the middle of old Ford steering shafts was the headlight switch rod and horn wiring. The center of the steering wheel had a horn ****on, with a switch that rotated right around the ****on. There was a hollow rod that ran all the way to the contacts of the switch at the bottom end of the steering box. It looks like your switch stuff is missing.
If the taper on the shaft is clean and not all nicked up and the steering wheel adapter is also in good shape the taper already has a good grip on holding things together. A bolt, just as well as the original nut would provide a fail safe to secure the wheel adapter. The steering shaft is relatively heavy wall and could easily be tapped, but the tube for the horn wire is not heavy enough and would need to be shortened to clear a bolt. The shape of the box says Early V8, not Model A. You could check casting numbers or just see how many bolts hold the box to the frame. Two bolts- it’s an A box, three and it is either ‘32 or ‘33-‘34. As far as casting numbers go, off the top of my head I think the box will have B 3550 on it. Box is same casting number for either ‘32 or ‘33-‘34, but sector castings are different at clocking of bolts and maybe machined angle where it bolts to frame. Bottom line is this, if it’s ‘32 then most do not like the heavy feel of the 13-1 ratio. The ‘33-‘34 has a better ratio but still not as good as say, an F1 box. Also, the worm shaft (your broken one) is one length, but IIRC ‘32 is the longest, ‘33 might by a touch shorter and ‘34 may not match ‘33??? I guess a restorer might know the lengths.
that aluminum tube that went through the center was attached to the head light switch lever in the center of the wheel. in the center of that was the horn ****on and it's corresponding wire which ran straight through the steering box. the switch lever/tube, mechanically turned the head light switch which was mounted at the bottom of the steering box and held on with a wire bail. you can see the hooks for the bail in the photo. stupidest set up ever.....
Total bolt thread length should be 1". I think that tube ("mast") can be tapped 7/16", SAE (fine) thread. Don't tap it USS (course) as it may compromise the integrity of the end of the tube. SAE would be preferred in a steel threading op, USS in cast iron.
Take some better pictures of the whole ***embly inside and outside of the firewall, remove the aluminum adaptor piece and see what the taper looks like. I am near you, I may have something laying around to take care of you.
Yep, I see the B now. Time to take the thing apart to measure the length of the shaft to make sure you get the right length shaft. And see if the ratio has been changed.
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