Ratchet straps will be plenty for that. The front is easy, the back you should have no problem finding something to loop around or hook to. Sell me the front hubs when you get it home.
Known as Boomers up here as well, some oil field companies don’t allow the use of over center types because of the safety hazard of them Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Boomer and same hill are new to me , but Sam Hill was a real person' Bob https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sam_Hill_(euphemism)
I have a 3" scar in the top of my head from one. I have seen guys dislocate shoulders, trying to release them improperly. saw a small pe*** woman get launched 5 feet in the air trying to release one. There is an insane amount of energy in one of those binders when fully collapsed.
Insane energy. I use the handle off my floor jack as a cheater when I loosen them. One time I lost control of it and the jack handle went about 40 feet. Don't be in a rush. You can find ones that weren't wired on the interstate all the time. Ratchet straps too. I save enough chain to make a loop around the handle and run a long shank lock through the chain.
An old timer advised me years ago not to use come-a-longs as binders when securing a car on a trailer. Something about them loosening up due to the trailer bouncing around as you drove. Don't know if its true but I've always used chains with binders and wide ratchet strands. JMO.
Secure your load. Anything hauled on a trailer is supposed to be secured well enough that it will stay in place even if the trailer flips. 2.5 miles or 2.5 hours away it’s still your responsibility.
secure it front to back ,and side to side ,someone pulls out in front of you ,you cannot jump out and fix things ,you never know what will happen so better to be over cautious than have it come up and kiss you,dont be in a hurry do it right ,someday you will be glad you did
looks like a good rig, chain er down good, and check again 20 miles or so down the road. too bad your not collecting model T's, i haul em like this, and no, the load is not on the tailgate, its blocked under the frame. happy motoring
My vote: Pay a guy $150 bucks to bring it to you using a roll back. Check around on the internet, there's all kinds of folks out there willing to do one-way drop offs for less than the typical tow truck outfit. The come alongs, chains and straps will cost you 1/2 that ($75 bucks) , plus the gas/diesel for about a 300 mile trip (300 miles at 13 mpg = 23 gallons, x $3.00 per gallon = $69 bucks. Already at $144.
I'd agree that some good 2 inch ratchet straps will hold it fine. Or a chain looped through the front of the frame and tied off with a bolt and nut through the links and a couple of ratchet straps at the rear. Main thing is get it tied down so you know it won't move and then stop and check it after a few miles to make sure it is tight. I picked up a pair of pretty nice ratchet straps for my trailer at Tractor Supply the other day when I was out hunting for a manure fork. I think they were 15 each and rated at 3500 lbs.
Just don't be this guy. Use FOUR points of connection between frame and trailer. If no tires to strap over, I usually pull it from the corners towards the corners. take some cribbing or blocking so you can get it secure to the trailer floor if needed. I use heavy ratchet straps and stop to check my load for "tight" after a mile or so, and then again every so often. Bag up the loose stuff or tie it down. I carry a bag of about 20 ratchet straps in my truck just to secure stuff that I haul. I cringe at the sight of loads strapped down with a single come along or some sketchy 1" HF ratchets, or on some trailer that look like it has been dragged through the hubs of Hell. Usually these are screaming down the highway just waiting to separate some unsuspecting person from their life. Not cool... do it right.
Always cross strap and lock it down. Weather musings ratchet straps or ratchet binders and chains. When I haul cars or trucks I secure them the same way I would heavy equipment.
I agree, tie the 4 corners so rf pulls against lr, lf pulls against rr, cross strap through doors if you want. Nothing less than a 2” strap, or a 3/8” chain with Binders, ratchet type wont loosen as much as the snap binder will. Never use over a 3’ cheater on a binder, you are putting too much stress on the binder and hooks......hooks WILL break if overloaded, been there, done that. I’ve been a flat bedder for over 35 years and have hauled a little of everything. Common sense and caution and you can haul anything without trouble.
ya, i do some truckin too, 4 corners with chains rated for the total weight. but...we are getting a little carried away here, its pretty much nothing of a load, to me any way
I thought about that too, and posted something about it in the cl***ifieds on this site, but I didn't get any bites
The Southwest must be a big place. I knew them as boomers in northern Canada when I was a kid, learned that they were a load binder sometime later.
4 to 6 guys and pick it up and put it on the trailer. 2 in front 2 in back 1 on each side couple of karate yells anb bam it's done
Nope. Upper Midwest calls 'em binders too. I see you are in Michigan, but in Wisconsin, Minnesota, and Iowa they are called binders.
Here in Northwestern Ontario Bush workers call them bear traps, and screw ones are ratchet binders but everywhere seems to have their own names for ****.
In Australia we call them dogs. It's because they are attached to a chain. You 'dog a load down'. You can tell someone that didn't take caution undoing them by the scar either on their chin or their forehead.
I was looking at the PJ trailer website yesterday. I'm in the market for a 40' flatdeck. They use the term 'boomers', too. I had no idea what they meant until my daily HAMB lesson.. Sent from my SM-G930R4 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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