Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

is that Club coupe your? would love to see more pictures of it

 

Mark thanks for all that wealth of knowledge and information with these 34-35 Chevy Aussies and USA built Roadsters and Phaetons!
Here is a picture of my Holden Tag on the left side of my 34 Australian Chevy Sports Roadster. It will be easier to see once I remove for good that spare tire out of the fender well and redo that welled fender!
Plus some other 34 Holden Australian body pics of my Roadster!
Hey I don’t want to MISS out with the Hairball Scene! Here in my new build am modifying my 34 Chevy grill shell and a custom PRC aluminum radiator also with a custom fan shroud to sit the 400SBC motor as far forward as possible!
Rory

 

They are two different cars. Different bodies, wheels, steering wheel location......

 

You said you got WOOD and own a CHEVROLET pre 1936.
mike lynch

 

# 35 is a '25 or '26 but appears to be on all Ford running gear. With 124ci it must be 9N or 8N tractor motor since the Model As had 200.

# 8 is probably a '25 or '26 but is modified from the cowl back. I'd like to see if it is running a Chevy 4 cylinder.

 

Six Ball,

I believe that #8 may be running an early C4- there is another HAMB member who has a '28 that he ran (or tried to run) at TRoG.

 

If you refer to the above I posted, nope. Both are known to an interstate Chevy restorer friend. I'll see if he has any other photos

 

might be a repost, if so sorry.

 

Looks like #8 has parallel leafs, front and rear, too.

Speaking of Chevy four cylinders, here's a cool thread by Squirrel, from a couple of years ago, (in case anyone missed it).

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1928-chevy-coupe.1024815/

 

Flatmotor, it took me a while to locate the original '35 Chevy Std 2dr gl***. I had it way in the back of the shop, boxed up, with a bunch of stuff stacked up in front of it. Totally out of sight. I measured the inside to inside felt channels in the car at 31". I didn't measure the depth of the felt channels. I measured back to front of the gl***, on the centerline, at 31 1/2-9/16" and from top to bottom of the smooth portion of the channel, on the centerline, at 15 1/2".

 

Thank you Bowtie I had a bad discussion with the guy that cut my set of 35 gl*** and he didn't want to admit it but he cut the 1/4 window too short 30 7/8x15 but he is sending me what is suppose to be the correct size.I will take your measurement and check his.Suppose to get it this week.I will not ever use him again.He was rude and hung up on me more than once.Like to do business with email and I like to talk to people about a problem face to face to get it solved.Again thanks

 

Flatmotor, you're quite welcome. My apologies again for taking so long to get you the correct info. Quite frankly, I was getting a little worried as I knew that I had that good, original gl***. That's terrible that someone in business treats their customers that way. To be rude and even hang up on you several times is just unacceptable. Geez, anyone can make a mistake. Just admit it and then make it right. People are human; they make mistakes. Anyone can understand that, but to be indignant about it and treat folks shabbily, especially after they spent their hard earned money to buy your product is just not right. I'm hopeful it gets straightened out for you soon.

 

Not very HAMB friendly, built late 70's early 80's. I wish I would have never sold this one. All the wood was removed and replaced with square tubing. We filled the roof with the roof panel of a 57 Chevy.....fit like a glove. I often wonder where it ended up??

 

Yes, your post. If you could get any more pics that would be great

 

Bowtie Gl*** was at my gate yesterday will look at it today had to cut 3 yards yesterday.Mine ,my Moms so I will get it out today before I weedeat.Thanks not in any hurry as it takes me a few years to get thinks done.The guy that sold his business told me he needed his **** whipped that he does everyone that way.He has a booth at most all the swap meet in the south.

 

Flatmotor, glad to see that you received the replacement gl*** quickly. I'm hopeful your gl*** guy got the dimensions correct this time. If that gl*** guy does everyone that way, it's a wonder nobody has whipped his **** already!

 

A couple from the AACA Venice Fla. show last week


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^^^^ Nice looking Chevys!
Are the door handles on the 33 upside down?

 

look like it to me. he probably put the one with the lock, mistakingly, on the driver side.

 

I've asked him for more however the photo(s) he sent won't open so he's getting someone else to try. Standby, normal service will resume ASAP.

As a matter of interest here is the tag from that red LHD 32 Moonlight Speedster built around that wooden buck.


Here is the genuine GMH tag from the red RHD Moonlight Speedster

 

Here's another rare GMH 32 3W coupe compared to a Fisher bodied coupe. Roof is not as square as a Fisher body and more rounded as are door corners, The window frame is deeper and the 'B' pillar is laid forward above the belt line, plus different side pressings

 

Bowtie took it out of package and it measured 31 1/2 so it is right this time Thanks will get back on it in a few days.But to get it finished it will take a while but what else do I have to do.Finishing up th metal replace inside around the back gl*** now

 

Mark, On my 34 Chevy Holden Sports Roadster my car NEVER had any tags at all on it! So I had made a similar to this picture of a Chevy Standard Car id tag made with my VIN # “MR90**X” of that same # that is on my ***le and then nailed it to the p*** side under seat area!
M = “Standard” R = “Right Hand Drive”
I noticed that your 1934 engine page #s showed NO "MR90**X" on that chart!
Here is my motor # is a different set of #s from the Vin#
Rory

 

The engine # is stamped on a raised boss on the right hand side of the cylinder block, just back of the fuel pump. It doesn't correspond with frame number. That looks to be a raised casting. Try that pad




I had to modify a locally manufactured 'Bolt in radiator' to physically make it work and fit the OEM shell and lower splash apron as well as tweak the OEM grill support bracket to provide clearance for fan motor. It later suffered a fatigue crack so it was reinforced with 1/4" rod in the rear 'V' and won't break now! To service the radiator I can still remove the OEM chin spoiler gaining access to wiring, bolts etc.You can just see it behind the grill, I decided it was finally the right time to put my new Bowtie emblem on as everything was apart.

 

OEM RHD Canadian / US bodied 35 in Sth Africa


OEM RHD Canadian / US bodied 33s in India. I was actually surprised as to how many OEM RHD Ford & GM cars of this era I could find via Dr. Google.




RHD GMH bodied 35 in USA, first time I've ever seen a top boot to cover the roof when stacked.


This a friend's RHD GMH bodied 35 that was sold to the USA, 6-wheel equipped


This is his current restored RHD GMH 35, still over here.


A possible future project, a 35 GMH Master phaeton

 

Theres a decent 28-29 phaeton cowl on ebay right now for anyone looking to do a roadster...

 

Not a bowtie but a rare RHD Indian (Pontiac) in India, I've never seen one before. Again OEM RHD Nth American body.




RHD GMH bodied 36 phaeton in USA






RHD GMH bodied 36 roadster in USA


RHD GMH bodied 36 roadster in NZ, with a Fisher bodied front bar


OEM RHD Canadian / US bodied 34/5 in ****stan, damn they're everywhere Non OEM front seat, running board step plates, wheel covers and rear wheels suggest something amiss? You can really notice the wheel arch pressing and that curved pressing in the rear 1/4 compared to GMH bodies.

 

Mark sounds like a great plan on your grille plus you got to add your grille Chevy Bowtie!
Here's a few shots of the radiator mounts and the notch I put in the gravel pan.
The mounts I welded on the sides are 1/8" 5052 aluminum and use the factory mounting holes. They guide the airflow on the upper half of the radiator and the curved pockets allow easy access to the headlight mount and wiring without unbolting the radiator. I also moved the brace behind the grill forward 3/8" to give more room to move the engine ahead. I just turned two rings on the lathe and tacked them on the brace.
Under the mounts, I will make a small shroud on each side that will seal the grill shell to the radiator, down to the modified gravel pan. The pan was simply marked, cut and a .5" lip tipped to add strength. I tig welded small strips of steel to the sides to complete it the lip.
Plus the load of the grille shell will all be tied in thru the new radiator and mounts!
Mark do you think by adding just the 1/2 inch bend lip that my ‘V’ bar will be strong enough without adding a 1/4 inch rod?
Rory

 

My 'V' bar was 1/8" thick and only took 15yrs to break from fatigue, plus the radiator itself didn't have straps from sides to top & bottom tanks. You should be OK however I used reinforced rubber insulation between lower core support and front X-member and where grill shell bolts to lower core support. All the weight of front sheet metal, hood and radiator is on that core support (2x bolts) which also bolts to both front fender supports. I just wanted everything as firm as possible and minimise any movement. Like your frame, mine is fully boxed with 35 style X-member to minimise any torsional twisting.

Very poor manufacture by 'Aussie Desert Coolers', at least it hasn't leaked like many others I know of. I've not heard of one that's directly bolted in, the one's others I know purchased and helped fit all required new mounts fabricated from new to fit. [emoji6]

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