Technical 250 inline 6 with 350 trans

Ok awesome thanks mitch 36

 

It is a two piece drive shaft. I changed the yoke and the literally let that set the engine front to rear . I did replace the swing bearing ,but I kept the 2 piece drive shaft. Used Speedway universal engine/trans cross member as a set. Worked great.
As previously mentioned the water pump hub must be messaged- and I used a champion aluminum radiator that they listed( yes E horror)- 188$ and it bolted on and ran super cool.I did have to shorten the fan blades to clear bottom hose , but I eventually just went to an electric fan/ shroud - again never had a problem.
If the front has already been swapped / I would swap the rear also. I would be looking at a 3:42 minimum/ and depending on tire height may be even a 3:55 gear for good high way/etc. Ghost rider here on the HAMB built my brake conversion bracket ( used the factory pedal ,arm etc.) bolts on. I used the dual /manual corvette master cylinder .I didn't need power brakes and it worked great- would stop on a dime with very little effort..I never did the power steering thing ,but brackets for the 250 are common/ available and If I remember correctly( its been several years since I had that truck) - stove bolt/ and another sight have the how to on changing to power steering.
Is yours a JE or JS code? My bed measured 9 ft 2 1/4 inches if I remember right.

 

Ok its a half ton. Opps delete the ideas on the two piece shaft and super long bed. My bad.

 

Does it have the original engine, trans and rear axle now? If so it has torque-tube drive: an enclosed driveshaft that's attached to the rear axle. Has the front axle been changed or only the hubs? Does it have disc brakes?

 

Those 250 sixes are pretty good reliable runners. The only issue I ever had with them is the distributor wearing on the top end, and making points adjustment difficult. This is my standard response to all 250 6 cylinder threads. The truck won't be a powerhouse, but I think you will find it enjoyable to drive.

 

Alright kool mitchell

 

The front axle has been charged to a 5lug
Not sure from wat year or model nd the rear axle is shot out so I was gonna upgradr

 

They dont have a ignitor electric ignition for that engine? I'm prepre sure they do to eliminate the points

 

I wouldn't worry too much on the points thing as in all my years I have never heard of anyone having trouble with the points in a 194/230 or 250 not staying adjusted. 75 and up do have HEI so it would be simple to find an HEI and drop it in if you decide to. I don't ever remember having to readjust my points between point changes (that didn't come often) in the around 100K that drove the truck with the 250. Don't worry about it until or if it happens.

 

Great I can go with Hei then I'll just have to find one

 

Hei is common. And cheap and easy.

 

So from what car would I look up or

 

It's not that the points don't stay in adjustment, it is the fact that the gap will increase when the engine is running. I had this problem on all three of the ones I owned, '68 Chevelle, '70 Chevelle, and a '71 Nova. Not a dire situation, just a minor nuisance if you are trying to keep your engine in proper tune. HEI, of course, might not be affected as much.

 

Yes I just want to make it a cruiser

 

The confusion comes from the first line of your first post. Your fingers forgot the 1/2 before the ton. If your 250 came with a flywheel and starter you've got what you need. Interchangeability between SBC and 194/230/250 sixes flywheels, starters and torque converters bolting to each other is really good.
Flywheels have two diameters, 153 or 168(?) teeth. Torque converters can have one of two different bolt spacing's. Some flywheels have both bolt patterns. For the drive shaft, a tape measure and a trip to the junk yard can solve that problem. I don't think you'll need it, but NAPA (and others) have a chart of mix and match "U"-joints. (By length of each cross, bearing cap diameter and whether internal or external clip.)

 

They used the aluminum housing as the shaft bearing surface. As it wore it caused the points to close up. Most common customer complaint was 'hard to start'. Easy to check for. Grab the top of the shaft and check for side play or hook up a dwell meter and watch the dwell dance.