Technical What can I do about this brake/gas pedal position?

How about a swing pedal off column and reinforced to the firewall?

 

i'd do as i said in my first post , and also raise it up a bit as happydaze said . a little heat , a little bending and maybe some welding on the pedal arm and you are done, no need to modify anything else

i see it is in a `35/36 Ford....i have a `36 Ford 3-window coupe and i have plenty of room for my size 12 feet without getting into the transmission cover. the pedal pad is at about the 4 o'clock position from the steering column and a lot closer , but not too close to cause problems

 

not my coupe , but a `36 5-window i did. darn photobucket has their logo right over the pedal pad , but you can just make it out

 

Yes it is and it can be re-positioned, It can be moved to the left, I have had to do it in the past. HRP

 

It looks like that might buy you some more lateral foot room if the trans tunnel could be tightened to the trans. Looking at 36-3window's picture it looks like he built his trans tunnel close to the trans and will use the boot to cover the shifter tower.

Going back and looking at your picture of the mounting bracket, if the pedal arm came off straight up from the short arm that operates the M/C rod, it would be problem solved. Call the manufacturer and see what they may have that would fit. That and tightening up the trans tunnel and you could drive it in snow boots.

 

Looks like you have enough room to move the whole bracket and master forward, towards the front of the car therefore letting it move also to the left at the same time being the way the frame is angled, and still have enough brake pedal travel. Flipping the pedal pad to the left side would also obviously help as well.
You would have to re cut your sheet metal but that can be re-welded, this is just a amateur opinion tho

 

That's always been option B. Main issue is I want to keep the firewall clear and clean.

 

This car has a 4" recessed firewall. If it was stock I think it would offer more room.

 

Amateur options are how I roll . IMO your way will give me maybe 1-2" movement to the left before I have issues with the firewall.

 

No reason why you can't heat and bend the brake pedal and move it to the left, you can also cut the mount on the end of the pedal and reverse it, you could gain a few inches,

I suggest you take a close look at your user name and DO IT OVER! HRP

 

I flipped the brake pedal pad mount which made a big difference. I've got enough room with the AOD to notch the tunnel 2-3" in I have to. I've decided to leave it as is and try it. Next I have to make an access panel for the master cylinder then I'll weld in the floors.

 

Can you make some spacers for the bracket that mounts to the frame? It looks like you have room to move the whole assembly over 2"-3".

 

What HRP says. I've had shelves full of stuff that did not work and yes I wasted money but you can try all that was said in this thread and still not like the results, that whole set-up needs to be moved over to the left.

Pat

 

Looks better but you've still got the pedal pad where it shouldn't be on your foot.

Interesting seeing the bracket and pedal assembly as I bought a '41 Chevy with something already fitted that looks to me like it was made by the same folks - the design of the arm, welded to the shaft and the grease nipple at the other end. I bet the pedal doesn't have a splined fit but a simple flat on a hole? Anyway, despite this being a design to fit atop the Chevy frame the pedal position was hopeless, but in this case too high up, unless you have clown feet. If it is from the same folks then they're clueless!

As has already been said, moving that bracket forwards will move it and the pedal to the left and up the toeboard. It's a bolt on and easy to do. Might need to infill some frame holes though. Bending and / or shortening / lengthening as / if necessary could happen then.

As a matter of curiosity, what is the pedal ration on that setup?

Chris

Chris

 

although the throttle pedal in this OT truck is electronic the pedal itself pivots off the black piece attached. This method could be applied in mechanical setting, don't think I'd want any extra pivot points. I have the basic "spoon" throttle pedal in my hotrod.

 

It seems to me, whatever you do is going to take some time, and maybe the best time spent would be to move the master cylinder and booster over where it needs to be. Do you need a power booster?