I starting on my tudor project and need to know whether I should box the OG model A frame I have or order one already boxed? I am on a budget, but if the the new boxed one is going to save alot of time then maybe the extra cost can be justified. What about VIN #s on the OG frame? Where are they? Also, 1)Who sells the new model A boxed frames ? 2)Who sells the boxing kits for the frame? Are they a just a weld in application or do you have to do alot of t******* to get them to fit?
A new "A" frame is a street rod type. Very easy to tell as most are made from 2x4" tubing and modifed to look like orignal. The front horns are welded on and are not part of the chanel. Dagel's rod shop offers the box kit for stock frame. It fits close but will need triming and welding. The cost new-old is about a wash out. Depends on the style your building to; traditionsl use stock frame or if to be fenderless.
The frame number will be in the area of the front body mount, driver's side. Usually under the cowl. Cardboard patterns used to cut boxing plates works fine if you can do without a kit and translated oriental instruction manual. "Plese to place tab a-273 onto inserted area of slot B-105 of pre-***embly component G2L. as shown on fig.7C pg9." Remember to weld in nuts on the frame for the body mounts BEFORE you weld on the boxing plates. Plan A: 1 sheet of metal, 1 pair of scissors, 1 pencil, Chunks of cardboard, and your favorite torch, welder and grinder. Plan B: 1 credit card, 1 1-800 number. You get to choose maynard...
Your signature sez built, not bought... Another consideraton is the condition of the original frame. Bear in mind that these are 75 years old now and some have suffered a lot more than others. Once it is removed and cleaned you can make an evaluation with a tape measure and a visual. The 'new' frames are also made from heavier material than Henry used. Someone mentioned Dagels and I think TCI is just north of you also. Evaluate what you have first and go from there.
Hiya Doug, this is the former Escondido resident, that moved to NorCal.. shoot me some photos of you "almost free" Tudor- I'll send you some of my '26 T Tudor when I get it... How's your "wannabee '53" coming along? Say hi to Russ, Timbo, Jason, Rob, and the rest of the old gang when you see them for me.
I don't know of an aftermarket A frame with a hefty rear kickup. If you are looking for a lower stance you may have to box it and make your own. If you are happy with standard suspension components and a basically flat A frame then Dagle,TCI,and Brookville roadster are all suppliers. Fabricating your own frame takes a long time and is messy hard work. ( I'm still doing it!) If you mess up and get something sideways you will be out a bunch of money and time....I almost wish I had bought a basic frame and then kicked it up. I will be proud to say I made my own frame.... but I could be enjoying working on the body instead ....Just some things to consider. - kyle
Check these guys out: http://www.cl***icstreetrodmfg.com/ We bought a couple of Model A frames from them. They are great guys to deal with. If you call, talk to Hugo(and tell him Jeremy Burke sent ya). The company is just 2 brothers that I believe used to work for TCI before they started on their own. They do really good work.
Box it yourself man. It will only take a few nights to burn it all in. I boxed the pickup frame I used for my sedan in about a week of total time spent. I had no money in sheetmetal thanks to Frizby. It would have only run about 70 bucks though.
you can also check us out at the rod factory. we build A frames, and I can slap one together with any combo from transverse spring front and rear, to fully independent $770 for A frame rails with leaf spring crossmembers front and rear. you weld in you motor and trans mounts and wishbone/hairpin mounts. just because its an aftermarket frame does not make your A a "STREETROD" or you a "GOLD CHAINER", American stamping rails are a STREETROD Part, and how many traditional cars use em? as for the built not bought, somebody has to build it, and there is nothing wrong with helping keep shops in buisness. you can box your frame, and build it up, it takes time and skill, and there is always the possibility of it cracking if it isnt welded right.
55 safari has it DOWN... Just because you buy a new frame does not make you a street rodder... or your car a street rod... it's about the look of the final product. I would not think of putting an OHV motor into a stock ch***is.... boxed or not. Sure you can stiffen it up, but you'll be money, and more importantly TIME ahead if you go with new rails. If you factor in the time it takes to clean old rails, box them, straighten them... and all that, YOU could effectively start out with new tubing, pie cut it yourself, and install a new crossmember in the front and have just as much into a NEW frame, than into an old one. Sam.
Real dilemma,if you buy ,not traditional,do it yourself,your cheap. Hey , do it your way,its your nickel and enjoy. Myself ,I would enjoy building a new frame,but I like fabrication,maybe you don`t.. Good luck either way. Jerry
The sedan is going to full fendered, so if the lines of the frame are not perfect that is OK. I am planning on running a SB Mopar 360ci and a 904 auto because thats what I have. It seems all these new frames are set up for SBC/th350 trans, so I will have to weld in my own motor mounts and transmission crossmember. As far as built not bought..........that has always been my moto, but something are better left to professionals.
That's true enough. However, you could always try boxing it yourself, see how you do and if you're happy with the result, keep it. If you screw it up you're out some time and a few bucks for the boxing plate steel, but you've tried it & gained some skill and experience at the same time. Or, you could buy the new frame, have that peace of mind and sell the original to some restorer or, s**** it, or sell it here. Someone might want it. Or swap it for something you need. Lotsa scrounger (me included) on the HAMB. Esta mi dos centavos.
I can get the plates you need cut out. I have a buddy who owns a fab shop who will plasma/laser cut them for you. I actually cut mine own out using ruler, plasma cutter and grinder. PM me if your interested. Im boxing my frame now.
Box the original or buy a new one? The third option of course is to buy some rectangular tubeing and build the thing from scratch. This gives you the freedom to set whatever kick up you want at each end, set yourself up for whatever suspension you chose and fit your mopar engine and trans in where you like. Of course you need to be set up for this kind of work but some people find this the most satisfing part of the whole build. Good luck with whatever you decide.
A 4th option is to buy the American Stamping rails thru Speedway and do the rest yourself if your rails are beyond help. I used Dagels X idea for my original A frame. Since it was not a "street rod" I opted for a cut down 39 X which I happened to have from a salvaged stock car frame I parted out for the juice brakes. I used a 8BA flathead with a C4. Most builders seem to box flush to the rails. I think a better way is to insert the plates about 1". You wind up with a lot less finish work as well as have a place to unobtrusively run lines and wires. Sure beats trying to fish things thru later or make repairs/changes.
many of the shops who supply repro frames can handle custom motor mounts, you just have to ask. we have a 318 mock up sitting here now from putting a custom MII in a 38 plym
How good are your fabricating skills, and how thick is your wallet? Model A frames are easy to box, and if your going to run full fenders, it doesn't have to be particularly pretty. But---it is time consuming, and its not just the boxing. You have to know where your engine mounts will be, how high or low you want your engine to set, where your rear crossmembers gonna be, where your front and rear 4-bar mounts are going to be, where your rear Panhard rod is going to be, where your front Panhard rod is going to be---about 2 dozen things that you aren't going to know unless, like myself, you've been building rods for 40 years. Unless you are up for a ****load of trial and error, tack it on, try it, burn it off, move it, try it again for fit, blah blah blah, then buy one. You'll still be a hot rodder either way. To get an idea of what I mean, I am going to load a few pictures of the frame build on my current ride.
I like your frame rotissere.... I bet that made finish welding easier!... I've been flip flopping...and it gets heavier every damn time
Built not bought......................... Build your own frame, take templates off that pos your thinking about. Make sure you give it a big sweep...............both ends. This is built............................not bought.
Man, that's not the "Jimmy Shinola" *I* know.... You know, Jimmy, this Model T Tudor Sedan I got is pretty much your fault... seeing all those bad *** cars at the shop got me going again...Maybe I can get you and Carrie up here for a week or two, I'll feed you all the Salmon and Albacore you can eat, and you can just stay in the garage and help me with the "T" build. PS If you haven't figured out who this is yet, it's the guy that left the high-paying car magazine job to become a partially unemployed bum, on the coast of Northern CA.
I boxed a stock frame and re-inforced the crossmembers. Used " Hortons" trans mount and speedway motor mounts. I used threaded plates inside the frame for the brackets, but nut inserts are fine. I'm running a 425 nailhead and so far no problems. Its the cheapest way to go.
Did you box the entire frame, or just what you have in the photo? I am running a full fendered 31 coupe, and I'm planning on putting a small block 302 in it.
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