Henry used to put webbing between the body and the frame. This stopped squeaks and helped stop vibrations getting into the body. I'm about to put my coupe body back on the frame for the last time (about ****** time!)What do you guys use, if anything? Cheers, Stewart.
I don't think the webbing did much to reduce vibrations, it's basically tar-cloth. Since my roadster is a '31 on a '32 frame, I used oak blocks for the front body mounts like an A would have and webbing between the rear curved subrails and the frame kickups over the rear wheels like an early V8 car would use. On previous cars that used fabbed frames and custom subrails I've used oak pucks, hard rubber discs, etc... Just choose something that won't deteriorate in the weather. Hey Jay!
I used these. There's a top and bottom rubber 'donut' that totally isolates the body from the frame. If you just put a strip of rubber in between then tighten down the mount bolts, any vibration will transfer through the bolts. The rubber will probably help with squeaks though.
I always use the webbing like Henry used. My cars are basically stock so I want the spacing to remain the same for the fenders to fit etc. We use strategically located pop rivets to hold the webbing while aligning the body.
I have used belting off of a rock crusher. Worked great. Just drilled out some 2 1/2 inch hockey pucks with a hole saw on my drill press. A lot of rock haulers us it as mud flaps. I got it for free from them.
Tractor Supply sells narrow conveyor belt material, that's what I used. I cut it to the width I needed with a thin cutoff wheel against a 2x4. The garage smelled like a good burnout.
http://macsautoparts.com/product.asp?camid=FMP&pn=S50I9TZH1000057&bhcd2=1277820164 I used to spray glue frame welt to the to of the rails, but now it seems that Macs carries it with adhesive backing. Just make sure you have a punch to knock out the mounting holes.
Old bias ply tires, tread part, cut out with a hole saw and a 1/2 pipe sharpened to make the hole in the center in a drill. Of course different cars take different mount bushings.
If you have a light-weight car body, Speedway sells rubber body mounts that are pretty cool. I'm using them on my T roadster.
The pre-glued webbing works great. We use a leather punch to make the holes BEFORE the backing is removed to expose the adhesive. Frank
I used rubber belt material about 1/3 inch thick, cut it into 2.5 inch squares and used a punch to put a hole in the middle just large enough for the body bolts. I mounted an A coupe to a 2x4 boxed frame.
All Ford As used wood blocks (sets available from every Model A parts vendor) with asphalt-treated woven webbing between the block and the frame. Pickup cabs from A though 47 or so used wood blocks as well. After the A's the asphalt-treated woven webbing was used and in 35-48 there were moulded rubber blocks and pads (kits available from Dennis Carpenter and others).
The Jalopy Journal
