Technical Rebel Wire Harness diagrams and wiring info

I will be doing a full harness soon and if I can find that it isn't as scary as I believe it can be this chat will help. DD

 

It is a lot easier than you think; just go slow and pay attention to your routing. Get some good strippers and crimping tools and use quality connectors. You'll do fine.

 

My 53 has cloth covered wiring .... its 66 years old ...
and needs to GO ... do you have any kits that feature antique style wiring look

 

I don't think that Rebel does cloth covered wiring harnesses, you might have to go with one of the restoration outfits. I'm sure Jeremy will speak up when he gets time.

 

Speaking of cloth wiring.
This is a nice kit. Expensive but nice.
https://www.americanautowire.com/view-product/highway-15-nostalgia-wiring-system/

 

OUCH .... never mind

 

It sure makes the $215 Rebel 9+3 harness look good doesn't it? (even less with Alliance discount)

 

I don't know if this has been asked before because I got tired of reading this whole thread, but here goes;

I read that you need a 3 ohm resistance to the points which is usually a 1.5 ohm resistor and a 1.5 ohm coil resistance. So if you use a 3 ohm coil, you do not need a resistor, so far, is this right?

Next, if I use my 3 ohm coil, do I still need to run a wire from the positive side of the coil to the terminal on the solenoid that will give it a full 12 volts at startup? I think that with a 3 ohm coil, there would be no way to give it a full 12 volts, even at startup. So maybe I bought the wrong coil?
This is for a 48 Ford flathead that I am rewiring and converted to 12 v neg ground.

 

I ordered one of their T bucket kits for my roadster. Of all the things I have done on my car wiring scares me the most so I opted to take the easy way out. Great customer service and quick shipping.

I do wish they offered a cloth covered kit.

—louis

 

What does the pile of wire look like? Less than the pile in post #455 above? Bob

 

I has a good bit of wire but it is designed so you can mount it anywhere in the car. Dash, under the seat, ect.



--louis

 

WOW! That is a T Bucket kit, how many lights do you need on a T Bucket???????? Bob

 

Rebel wire is the only company I'll ever buy from. Customer service is out of this world!!

 

one of these days this thread is going to come in real handy

 

Hey guys, been covered up lately. We don't do anything with cloth covered wire, ran into that a few times. I usually recommend the same American Autowire kit shown here, but it does get expensive. There are some places where you can get just wire, but I don't know that there is a "cost effective" way to do it.

 

All that is just extra in case you need to tie up the muffler, haha. Just kidding, you're looking at lights (park, tail, dash, high and low beam), brake lights,coil, start, oil pressure, water temp, alternator exciter, tach, 4 turn wires, dash indicator wires, gauge power, horn, and a couple long power wires from the panel and flasher to let you mount the panel in a remote location. Yeah you can start a car off a hot to the coil and crossing out the solenoid, but I'd rather have it right.

 

If you made a wiring setup just to run the engine I'd buy that, no desire to wire the whole car and see it burn. Bob

 

What wires do you need, Coil and Start? to run from the ignition switch to the coil and ignition switch to the solenoid? Honestly, if you're worried about burning it down by wiring it, I'd take it to someone, and still be careful who you take it to. If I can help you with anything, in all sincerity, let me know

 

I'm installing my Rebel 9&3 kit now, Jeremy was great helping me sort things out, and making a few modifications to my kit and tailoring it to my components.

That along with some extra labeling he did to my wire bundles have really helped make this a good experience.

One thing I wish I had sorted out was the length of the wires going to the various switches on the dash.

The kit was designed for the fuse panel to be mounted on the drivers side and as such the wire bundles coming off the panel are long enough.

Now for the however.
I decided that since my RPU is so small and cramped, mounting the panel on the passenger side would make it much more accessible.

That worked great and required me to re-bundle those wires to get them moved in the harness back to the drivers side.

As a result, the wires are shorter than they should be to get to some of my switches etc.

I'm not really sure what to do about it at this time as I don't have any extra wire in the right sizes and colors

I'll have to figure something out.

 

it's so.....perfect

 

If you don't mind splicing them, just let me know how long and which wires you need. I'll price it out and see what size box I can get it into. The wire isn't much, shipping would be most of it. Anything I can do to help you get it going, just let me know

 

Thanks, I’ll scope it out and make a list and send you a message.
Splicing is not a big deal if you do it properly, I would have preferred not but this was unforeseen initially.
I usually do a crimp splice with a uninsulated connector and then glue lined heat shrink it.

The wires end up not much larger than the regular insulation size.

Thanks again Jeremy I’ll get back to you.
Appreciate it.
Larry

 

Do you have any idea how many wires come through the hole with the grommet ? Stuff like that would be nice to know before you paint the car, doubling the wire size for safety will require a larger hole, but just how much larger. Prewiring planning can save a lot ruined body work. Bob

 

No problem Larry. I'd do the same thing and wouldn't forsee any issues, but sometimes you mention splice and people get offended I like to stagger my splices also, so they don't all bunch up in the same place. Just let me know what you need and we'll get you going again. Nice wiring job by the way

 

There are 21 wires I believe. The hole is for an 1 14" grommet as supplied in the rebel kit.
I drilled the hole through the paint and then repainted with touch up as I have with the other holes to mount the wiring.
A paint pen works great for repainting drilled holes.
For me it's almost impossible to plan for every little thing before paint.
Especially since I didn't put the car together completely the pull it apart for finishing.

 

Thanks, looks like the tail light have 21 wires as well, amazing how complicated things are. Bob

 

That’s all the engine wires and front and rear lighting, fuel gauge, basically everything.

 

All that wire and I count 9 fuses correct?

Bob

 

Turns out that there are only 3 wires that are definitely too short now.
Another 1 1/2’ of each will do the trick.
You could probably roll them up and send them to me in a bubble mailer envelope.
I’ll send you a message.
Thanks,Larry

 

Finished routing the wires back to my tail lights.
Hooked up my fuel sending unit too.
Loomed, mounted and working as they should.
I used weatherpack connectors for the rear lighting.
I have found that Rebel makes a really nice kit and Jeremy was really helpful in tailoring the kit to my components.