Projects 1930 Ford Coupe Build

Three months ago, I bought a full fender coupe with original drive train. I disassembled the coupe and removed the coupe body, that is all that I was going to use. I sold all the rest of the coupe. m.ralph@yahoo.com

 

After removing the coupe body, I ordered a 1932 Ford pinched frame from Brookville.

 

Installing Ford nine inch rear end assembly with triangulated 4 bars and coil over shocks.

 

Installing dropped front axle, Posey springs, and split wishbones. Then changed my mind and installed radius rods instead. Because the drag link was going to be too low.

 

After installing the front axle assembly and rear axle, the chassis was a roller. With the chassis finished, I installed the engine and transmission. Then I mounted the body.

 

Looking good . Working fast. Keep updating.

 

thanks Fastcar1953

 

Added a few more goodies.

 

I installed the front floor and trimmed the hole for the American Shifter and adjusted the neutral safety switch. Also mounted the brake pedal. Cut a hole for access for the master cylinder and made a cover for it.

 

At the rate your moving it should be done this week. wow .

 

Very nice! great body to start with too.

 

Thanks fourspd2quad, yes it is a good coupe body. Thanks, fastcar1953 I can usually build them in 2 or 3 months.

 

Next came the dash, gauges, and wiring. I make my own harness for the dash with one or 2 connectors. So the dash can be removed easily, instead of removing every wire off each gauge.

 

Your motor looks pretty low, how close are the drag links to bottom pulley. But you did say you've done it before.

 

Sweet! Lookin good


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3banjo, yes I build about 3 cars a year. Mostly 32 Fords, coupes and roadsters. No fiberglass , all Henry Ford bodies or Brookville. Thank you Phil55Kratz.

 

Steering column and wheel mounted down to a Vega box for cross steering.

 

A little more goodies for the engine area.

 

Mounted the 15 gallon gas tank and battery in the trunk. Also installed a battery cut off switch.

 

then decided on some Lake style headers with baffles.

 

A little drive around the block to test everything out.

 

Any chop?

 

Thanks to everyone that left comments or likes.

 

Was wondering if you were going to chop the top any.

 

Project coupe looks almost done. Will you get a hood for it.
Looks like you didn't have to cut the firewall, to fit the motor.
Howd you do that. Looks good. No chop.

 

Thanks everyone that asked about the chop. People that know me, know it has to be chopped. Last week I took it to my friend Lee Moore ( 409 679-2660) at Lee's Speed Shop in Orange, Texas to get a chop. It was hard to decide how much. I knew it had to be between 4.0" to 6.5"

 

Bajita , On the firewall, I get the engine as far forward as possible then use a little force to push the firewall back a little to clear the distributor cap. I don't normally use hoods on my cars. I will be installing a 3 deuce manifold soon, so I like to show off the engine area. I usually put 3 deuce setup on all cars.

 

M.Ralph keep us posted on the outcome of the chop, love to see it.

 

Got it thanks for the firewall info.
Chop top it is. Any paint color in mind.

 

nice hot rod !
Careful how much you chop, as it directly relates to the rod's rake...
the more ; biggie rears, tiny fronts, 4" dropped, reversed eye, stock visor, the less vision...
don't get carried away... you can always chop it more later...
a crook in the neck to see what is 10 car lengths out in front is fine in your 20's...
30 years of working, a little grey hair and that will change...
….. my personal opinion only.