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Technical 1940 Ford Rear suspension opinions needed

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by mikec4193, May 12, 2019.

  1. mikec4193
    Joined: Jan 7, 2007
    Posts: 377

    mikec4193
    Member

    So I am trying to save this old man from fading away into oblivion... from what I have been told it ran probably early 1960's in Southern tier of New York State or Northern PA area...be that as it may...the current rear suspension is a mess...I would like to bring it back into a drive able status (on the street drive able)...the existing suspension is parallel leaf springs mounted out board on the frame rails...rear shackles are jacking bolts...old tube shocks mounted to the side of the leaf springs...kinda scary but it is what is...I have been looking around at my options...I would like to keep it looking like a race car from back in the day (this one still has a tow bar on the front bumper) but a little safer rear suspension set up would be optimal...I like the low look that is has but their methods from back in the day have me wondering what would be a better way to make it run down the road...so fellow HAMB folks...I need some insight as to which way to go....
    thanks in advance....
    01212_gxFbf1fzjO4_1200x900.jpg DSCN5022.JPG DSCN5011.JPG
     
  2. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 10,919

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska

    Ch***is Engineering parallel rear spring kit. Used a lot of them when I was building 35/40 ch***is with good success.
     
  3. HOTRODPRIMER
    Joined: Jan 3, 2003
    Posts: 64,935

    HOTRODPRIMER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I used the Ch***is Engineering rear kit on my 1939 Convertible and my '40 sedan, I couldn't ask for a better ridding after market rear suspension. HRP
     
  4. chevyfordman
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,516

    chevyfordman
    Member

    I used a Ch***is Engineering rear spring kit in my 48 Chevy, rides like a 3/4 ton truck, CE told me to remove the second from the bottom leaf. Car still rides rough over a big bump. My one friend used a Weedeater rear spring kit on his 48 Ford and it rode like a Cadillac over railroad tracks. Maybe I wasn't lucky.
     
  5. lothiandon1940
    Joined: May 24, 2007
    Posts: 32,511

    lothiandon1940
    Member

    That's the perfect candidate for a tribute to your favorite stock car driver. I would have to turn that into a tribute to my childhood racing hero, dirt track ace and later 2-time NASCAR National Late-Model Sportsman Champion, L. D. Ottinger. It would carry the Black #2. 333348-1318885076-636a4451195be7a4f6b3a17ae8548a61.jpg L. D. (2).jpg
     
    OLSKOOL57 likes this.
  6. lothiandon1940
    Joined: May 24, 2007
    Posts: 32,511

    lothiandon1940
    Member

    Like this, but in 1:1 scale.:D 20190512_173703.jpg
     
    OLSKOOL57 likes this.
  7. lothiandon1940
    Joined: May 24, 2007
    Posts: 32,511

    lothiandon1940
    Member

    Back up for Mike.
     
  8. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 9,712

    Marty Strode
    Member

    If you want it low, check with https://www.weedetrstreetrod.com/ , he is a member and has well engineered products. The Ch***is Engineering setup requires lowering blocks, Dale's does not. That's one cool race car !
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  9. typo41
    Joined: Jul 8, 2011
    Posts: 2,571

    typo41
    Member Emeritus

    The problem with what is there?
    Look kool to me:rolleyes:
    All the above,
     
  10. mikec4193
    Joined: Jan 7, 2007
    Posts: 377

    mikec4193
    Member

    I dont trust any of the workmanship on this old rig...they hooked the shocks to the side of the leaf springs...that is scary for sure... DSCN5055.JPG
     
  11. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 10,919

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska

    One thing about my use of CE rear spring kits. My first experience was with a 40 sedan which rode great. Then I started using them on my repro 35-40 ch***is which were considerably heavier than a stock frame and I always used the lighter spring pak. I never had any customer complaints about the ride.As to lowering blocks I can't address that.
     
  12. olscrounger
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 4,840

    olscrounger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have used both CE and weedetr on 40 builds -both work well but CE does need blocks. Weedetr with reversed eyes do not. Also many do not center rear wheel in wheel well-too far forward-usually 1/2" to 3/4"-looks incorrect.
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  13. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,522

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

  14. MIKE STEWART
    Joined: Aug 23, 2016
    Posts: 273

    MIKE STEWART

    Also - great luck with Ch***is Engineering on several 1939/ 1940 Fords.
     
  15. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,522

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Here's more info including a link to a dedicated thread he made to the rear suspension installation :

    For the rear suspension I like to use the front springs and hangers off of the 49 to 54 Chevy pickups. I have used this system on several of my 40 builds. The rear end is a Mavrick 8" and will be running 3.40 gears.



    I have a tear drop trailer I tow and sometimes I need a little extra support when loaded for traveling. I put these air bag ***ists on I had lying around. Here is a thred I did on this complete spring and hanger install.

    Low Buck rear springs for 35-40 Fords

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=557363
     

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