Technical Rebel Wire Harness diagrams and wiring info

Only the power wires go to the fuse panel. Most wires just run from switches out to lights, or sending units to gauges, etc. So for the headlight switch, only the switch power needs to come from the panel. The rest of the wires (park, tail, dash, dimmer switch) run from the switch out to the lights and dimmer switch

 

No problem Larry, I'll work on it. Thanks again

 

Only about 5 wires running to the rear on most. Tail light, left and right rear turn, fuel sender, and 3rd brake (which you probably wouldn't need and could cut short). Tail lights split off left and right and to a license plate, but the rear is usually simple, as far as the whole job goes

 

Well that puts me back at square one, all these years I thought there was only one power wire that ran form the battery some how. Bob

 

Looks clean. What did you use on the "t" joint?

 

Easy loom sells a self sealing thin rubber wrap that basically seals to itself when wrapped and stretched without any adhesive.
The stuff really works. It's available through places like Summit.
I found some almost identical stuff called Magic wrap that works really well too for a cheaper price.

Just wrap the loom T joints with that stuff and it bonds to itself and makes everything clean and secure.

 

It’s pretty obvious from these and other posts that Bob is electrically challenged or just plain intimidated.

Bob, while I can empathize with you on the confusion when you look at a whole pile of wires I can tell you that it’s not that hard.

Just get yourself a kit and go at it.
Like anything else you can learn as you go.

 

You have far more courage than I do, and a beautiful T that you built from scratch. Every electrical question I've seen posted on the HAMB has two different answers, I see no reason to loose any of my projects if I follow the wrong advice. Best wishes.


Bob

 

Thanks Bob, I think the reason for the 2 answers thing is because like many other things there are multiple ways to make something work.
Some ways are better than others, I choose to use advice from my local experienced friends who have built cars for many years along with help from good vendors like Rebel.

 

Glad that is working out for you, I'm years away from really worrying about it but would like to have the frame set up to accept the wire if the Grandkids or next guy want to finish things. Bob

 

Here's the short answer. There's a main power wire that runs from the battery and feeds the fuse panel (constant hots) and the ignition switch. Then wires that run from the ignition switch to feed the keyed hot fuses on the panel. So your fuse panel has both constant and keyed hots now. Then the power wires come off the fuse panel and feed things like (headlight switch) (turn signal flasher) (brake switch) (gauges)... Then those switches control and send power out to other places. It's all just power in and out... controlled by switches... ultimately searching for a ground.

If you really want to get your underwear in a twist, think about if it flows from positive to negative or negative to positive, and the fact that with a hot wire laying around, with no ground present..that wire really isn't hot. When doing positive ground tech, I just started saying body side or fuse panel side when referring to the wires But the good part is....you don't have to know or even think about any of this to wire most cars! When doing paint work, you wouldn't test the chemical makeup of some thinner or filler. You'd accept that it is what it says it is, and probably don't need to be a chemical engineer to spray paint, even though there are chemical reactions taking place. I'm just guessing as I'll admit this is a skill I haven't perfected The point is the more research you do, the more confused you're going to be most times, trust me. I do it all the time and have to weed out most of it until I find enough overlap to satisfy my curiosity, or test it myself

 

Not much of a harness to run the engine; three wires besides the battery cable. This one is nicely color coded and long enough to reach inside the car so it can drive.

 

I see way more that three wires that are the same color. I'll forever be in the dark electrically.


Bob

 

Fear not! A test lite will shed light upon you if you try.

 

Maybe looks that way cause it is curled up; but really only three wires connected to the switch; one 10 ga battery power, one 12 ga to the starter solenoid, and one 16 ga running to the ignition.

 

Hey Jeremy, I sent you a message, I think you can add a piece of yellow headlight power wire to my package.
Standing by.
Thanks Larry

 

It's packed up and about to ship out Larry, Thanks again!

 

Well reading this post helps answer my question on which harness I am going to buy. Rebel43 u are straight forward on answering questions and looks like a good harness. I will be contacting you soon to order a harness for my 46 Chev.

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Sounds good, hope you found some useful information on here. If you need anything just let me know.

 

CGkidd, you won't be disappointed. I used their 9+3 harness on my '51 Ford sedan and I'm very happy with the result. BTW, I'm just up the road from ya in Skagit County. See ya on the road or at the shows!

 

Called Jeremy last Wednesday just before Memorial Day weekend to see if he had a 8 circuit 6 volt kit in stock for my '46 Mordor Mercury. Said he would have one ready for me by early Friday afternoon. Friday comes and I drive the 22.9 miles to the address out in the middle of some of the most beautiful country you'll ever see. At one o'clock, I'm sitting in his driveway when he pops out of the door asking if I'm there for the 6 volt kit. When I go inside, the place is a model of efficiency. There are boards everywhere with new wire looms in different stages of build. There are several orders boxed up ready to go and Jeremy has just called UPS for a pick up. Friday afternoon and a holiday weekend and the orders are going out. For a two person business, Jeremy and Bob get a lot of work done without seeming to be in a hurry. They took the time to explain what they do and how and it just seems to make sense. When I wire my '27 T, it'll be another 22.9 mile ride to Rebel Wire.

 

@REBEL 43. I have a dumb question. I am starting to wire the hot rod with my new 9+3 and decided to add a 3rd brake light. (It’s a traditional fixture tho!). If I use an 1156-type replacement LED, do I need to do anything special with resistance or wiring??

This won’t be a turn signal or taillight; it is only a 3rd brake light and I am using the wire designated by the harness for this purpose.


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Third brake LED should work fine with no special accommodation.

Phil

 

As long as it is a 12v bulb, you will be fine.

 

All good advice from everyone here. Since it's just a brake light you don't have to worry about resistance (since it won't flash, just burn solid) and since it's an LED the 18ga 3rd brake light wire in the kit will be fine to use to power it

 

Time foe a bump, finally got to the end.

 

I’m just setting myself up to wire my Modified using your 9+3 kit. I’m using a low pressure electric fuel pump, how should I wire it? I have a manual wiper and was thinking of using the wiper power wire, the pump will have its own switch on the dash rather than just coming on when I switch the ignition on. Also I have a Ford inertia switch I would like to use - should I run that through a relay.

I will be fitting a front and a rear fog lamp, any suggestions for wiring those? Is there an existing circuit I could use (I won’t need the AC heat or the radio) or should I wire it separately?

I’m a bit confused about the dimmer switch power wire. It’s not a term we use over here. Is it just the switch that lets you go from main beam to dipped bean (high to low)? Are parking lights just the sidelights or running lights (the 5 watt bulbs in the headlights). We don’t use them as parking lights here anymore - that went out in the 60’s.

Finally (!), I’m using a generator with a separate regulator, is there a wiring diagram for this?


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I'll answer what I can, Jeremy will jump in when he sees the post.
You should be fine with using the wiper power wire thru a switch for your fuel pump as long as you fuse the circuit appropriately (no higher than the wiper circuit calls for, but you can go lower as needed to protect the pump).
You have 3 unassigned circuits in the harness, you can use one or more for your fog lamps.
Yes the dimmer switch is the one that switches from lo to high beams. We don't have the 5 watt lights in the H/L so what we call parking lights are the ones that come on with the first notch on the H/L switch (also called running lights over here- confusing huh?).
That's all I can help with, hope it helps!

 

Very helpful indeed - thanks very much.


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Sorry, I started posting more tech online and got a little swamped, lol. The wiper wire will be fine to use, it comes off the Ignition side of the fuse panel, and would be good to run through the dash switch as an override. I actually was just talking about the Ford inertia switch on a fuel pump with Hotwire Auto and they suggest just running the power for the fuel pump straight through the inertia switch, I asked about a relay too. I would check out the wattage of the fog lamps, just to see if you needed to relay them and trigger the relay off of the fuse panel. The ac heat wire is a 14ga, radio is a 16ga if it helps. It would really depend on the wattage of the bulbs (I just like to be sure, there's some high wattage lights out there now).

I believe the dimmer switch is AKA the "dip" switch. just let's you switch from high to low beam. Right, parking lights are the same as running lights, on with the first position of the headlight switch in most cases, some stay on depending on the switch. I'll attach a generator/regulator diagram to help out.

don't worry about the "to horns" wire. We've already relayed the horn.


Let me know if you need anything else.
Thanks,
Jeremy