Been looking for some time and was set on a Lincoln 200 amp tig /stick . Talked to a a couple pf folks that said they had problems with the boards on these machines but did not confirm that. Anyway, I bought a Millermatic 220 , dual voltage ac/dc tig/stick/mig . This thing is great, I learned to tig back about 17 years ago , did some body work on 40 ford coupe and a few others. I had a Lincoln 175 squarewave. It was a good machine. I always struggles with stick welding but some how I sorta got the hang of tig welding. As far as mig, I bought one of those small Lincoln machines back 30 or so years ago and the wire feed was ****py, I couldn't do a thing with it so I lost interest . Now with this machine, I welded my first presentable bead with the mig set up. Am a long way from being good but I have seen welds from various shops that were not any better. This machine has an auto set function that you put in the thickness and it will set perimeters that work well. Had to buy two gas bottle's, 1 for mig , one for tig but it came with two regulators . Once it is all hooked up, you can go from tig,ac to tig dc to mig , to stick simply by pressing a ****on.
You should be happy with it. I enjoy welding period. I could do it 16 hours a day and be a happy camper. If you enjoy the work it will show up in the finished product
Those new 3 function machines are great now that they have added the AC TIG capability so that you can weld TIG aluminum. Before that they were seriously limited for the TIG side. I’d love to sell my machines and buy one but as much as I love the Millers I think I will consider an ESAB Rebel EMP 205. The reason for that is that the Rebel offers more adjustability on the AC balance for AC Tig welding. The ability to set the balance to a higher percentage on the positive side of the AC cycle gives you better oxide cleaning action and makes Tig welding aluminium much easier. Another feature that the ESAB does better than the Miller is on the AC high frequency hertz adjustment. The ESAB offers a wider range of adjustment which can also help in some situations. Once you understand these things welding can be a little easier. I had a chance to run the ESAB machine and I was impressed. Which is something for me because up to now if you cut me I swear I’d bleed Miller blue.
I actually looked at the ESAB but being the novice I am I don't have the knowledge yet to understand all the perimeters you mention . I will say I laid down a few beads on aluminum the 2nd day I had machine that were presentable . No stacking dimes yet but more like a half squashed caterpillar.
The two things I would suggest on your Mig welds are: Make sure to look at the reference chart to get a starting place for your weld settings. Then when you start welding keep the nozzle the same distance from the metal as you weld. I have noticed a tendency as welds progeress to gradually let the nozzle get further from the base metal.. Try making a bead and then intentionally letting the nozzle move slightly away from the base metal and watch the quality of your weld quickly degrade.....then when you do it later, you will know why its changing. I have two Miller welders, a Dynasty 200 and a 350P. I just bought an ESAB Rebel (Mig only) so I could do .023 wire without having to change spools and liners from the .030 wire I normally use. Had problems out of it after 10 minutes, it quit. Contacted IOC and they referred me to ESAB tech. After a short conversation and some over the phone troubleshooting, they said they would send me a replacement. Two days later(this morning) a new unit arrived. So customer service seems to be good. Now I hope the new replacement doesn't have any problems.
Try it overhead 8-10 hours a day 130 feet off the ground in a 35 mile an hour wind and tell me you're still a "happy camper".
OH , Cleveland TN , Lived there back in 66 and part of 67 . Used to eat at Pasquale's ( Spel) Pizza , had a really good Stromboli sandwich . Not a traditional, Stromboli but one made with ground beef and a mushroom gravy sauce and some really greasy or ****ery like bread but It was really good. I was only six and I can almost taste it.
Yep, I have seen several post on other sites and some vids talkin about keeping nozzle the same distance. On my practice beads I have been starting with about a 3/16 to 1/4 stick out and about the same distance from material to tip of wire( maybe a little less) and around 18 to 20 on the gas setting for 1/8 steel . Does that sound about right or an I way off. I did some fillet welds at pretty much the same distance, seemed to have good penetration but the weld bead was sorta big. Perhaps too slow?
Miller beat ESAB to market with the 220 after esab had continued delays in their 205 after publicly promoting the 205 for a year and half. Miller has a far superior product with the 220 ac/dc
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