https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=2073284346305944 if this is not appropriate, please delete the post.
WOW! I wouldn't be surprised if that video gets taken down. Facebook link: https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=2073284346305944
I doubt it will be taken down... there are quite a few examples like this on YouTube. Ironic that this post came up here on the forum this weekend. After purchasing 3 gerry cans, I went to the nearest gas station (an outdoor equipment company) that sells ethanol-free gasoline. It took almost 25 minutes to get there. The price was 4.25 a gallon. I was stuck. I paid what they asked and purchased enough to fill 3 gerry cans and one other regular 5 gallon can. Ouch. I have been using the local, 10% ethanol gasoline here in town. I would imagine that many have seen my posts about the damage done by our wonderful modern fuel. Additive or off the shelf fuel stabilizer will offset the corrosive properties but I have found nothing that RAISES the BOILING POINT. Heat soak can be real issue with ethanol fuel. Last week I installed a clear, gl*** filter (I know, I know, I can hear the groans all over the forum ) just to see what was going on. Anytime the engine compartment was up to its normal temp for any length of time, fuel would literally bubble and gurgle through the gl*** filter at idle. Once the car was shut down, the filter went empty almost immediately. I ***ume because of the fuel evaporating. At other times when I run the engine for 10 minutes or so, the fuel stays in the filter, no bubbling, no gurgling, etc. What the video shows will work, I am sure, but there are two issues. 1. To fill your car or truck, you have to set up shop and dedicate supplies to get this done. A few gallons for a motorcycle or for small engines is one thing ---- filling up a 20 gallon gas tank is another. 2. Note that the octane level does lower (how much? I have no idea. None of the videos I have seen give any clear way to know unless you have a lab or something - seat of the pants? ). You would probably want to add a REAL octane booster to your tank each time you fill up on gasoline from which you have removed ethanol. I have no idea what I will do in the future. I hate ethanol, that's for sure. Once I run most of the current ethanol fuel out of my tank, I am going to drain it completely, and then fill up with my expensive "ethanol-free" fuel and see what difference it makes on the heat soak. I did tell my teenaged son that next year's science project for his Chemistry cl*** - he can run some tests and see what off the shelf chemical, if any, will raise the boiling point of ethanol gasoline. Don't know if mama will approve of that one!
This ethanol thing is way overblown. If the car is prepped correctly ethanol does not cause a problem. Here in NJ, we have only 10 % for years and years with very limited options for ethanol free. I have used 10 % in my 312 powered 54, 302 powered 48 Conv and my 312 56 Bird for over 20 years with no fuel related problems. Even used it in a flathead powered T for about 5 years , same result.
Well, now that the summertime ban on E15 has been lifted, you can probably expect straight gas to become even more scarce in some areas. From what I understand many gas stations don't sell it only because it requires changing over pumps and equipment, and they weren't willing to make the investment to sell something that had seasonal restrictions.
[QUOTE="...I have been using the local, 10% ethanol gasoline here in town. I would imagine that many have seen my posts about the damage done by our wonderful modern fuel. Additive or off the shelf fuel stabilizer will offset the corrosive properties but I have found nothing that LOWERS the BOILING POINT. Heat soak can be real issue with ethanol fuel. Last week I installed a clear, gl*** filter (I know, I know, I can hear the groans all over the forum ) just to see what was going on. Anytime the engine compartment was up to its normal temp for any length of time, fuel would literally bubble and gurgle through the gl*** filter at idle. Once the car was shut down, the filter went empty almost immediately. I ***ume because of the fuel evaporating. At other times when I run the engine for 10 minutes or so, the fuel stays in the filter, no bubbling, no gurgling, etc....[/QUOTE] Wouldn't you want something that RAISES the boiling point rather than lowers?
Wouldn't you want something that RAISES the boiling point rather than lowers?[/QUOTE] YES! lol my bad on the post. Yes, the current boiling point is too low, I need to find an additive that will raise it.
I'm lucky I guess.......I can get ethanol free at a convenience store on the edge of our housing tract. It's about .50 higher than the normal unleaded with 10%....right now about 2.80. I get it for my lawnmowers. Don't run it in my cars. I need the higher octane for my '57 and, like Paul said, never had an issue in all these years, except the lawn mowers/over winter storage. Yes, I use an additive
Is anyone else having any issues with heat soak on hot days, like I described? I can see the fuel boiling and the car can be hard to start after sitting for a while when it's hot. The temp of the coolant/engine never gets beyond 195 - with the gauge and the infrared.
I do. I open my hood a little to let the heat out when I park it. I plan on pulling the intake and blocking off the heat p***age one day.
Water cooled engines will always get hotter when shut off because you still have max heat without water circulation. Then it starts to cool down.
Just to add something else to the argument. The opinions expressed are not my own and I am too confused have an opinion on this and many other subjects
Uncle Tony had a video recently about vapor lock where he fits a vapor separator fuel filter to fix this.
Thanks for the video links fellas... always knew an engine gets hotter with the hood closed after you shut it down thought that was common sense, but any rate what this guy Tony says is true about evaporation of ethanol fuel. Back in the day you could let a car sit and just fire it up even after months of sitting. The fuel did not “break down” as easily. I remember years ago though emptying tanks of varnished gasoline on vehicle projects... a smell you never forget. I have seen serious deposit issues on fuel systems in which the ethanol has evaporated (maybe a number of times?) deposits are always left behind any time a chemical like that evaporates; microscopic at first and then building over time. First time I ever ran across Tony but at least he is honest. One video touts the benefits of ethanol fuel and the other one I found about vapor lock discusses the problem of heat soak. No fuel is perfect, I get it. I do think the real cure to resolve vapor lock or problems at idle is to install one of those filters he suggests. But, it’s going to be much more than $8 lol... most of the cars in our group did not have a separate return line back to the tank from the factory. Even so, installing his recommendation does not resolve the heat soak issue experienced after shutdown. I really don’t know if there will be a way around that unless you have pure gas or an additive for your fuel that offsets the boiling point problem. Interesting
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