Technical Brake lines

I am making new brake lines for my Hot Rod out of 3/16 brake lines with IF fittings.Do you guys have any good way to test them other than plugging them and charging them with compressed air?

 

I used brake fluid. Seriously, I built the entire system on the 34 out of stainless, installed it, filled the M/C and bled it out with a vacuum bleeder...not a drip, works great.

My advice is if you haven't done a lot of flaring, find someone who has and learn everything you can. Buy a better flaring tool than you think you need. Don't be in a hurry. Oh yeah, don't get polishing compound in the tubes while they're on the buffer ( I used rubber vacuum caps).

 

One thing I've learned over the years. When making final clamp of your flair in the vice, do not over compress it. Let that happen on final tighten up with fittings in place. The final squeeze in place makes the seal. Oh, and use a hand held pin ream to clean the inside of the flair of any overlap material. You'll be fine.

 

Put the fitting on the line before flaring.

 

SD already knows this but for those of the anxious predisposition, don't forget to put the fittings on before you bend and flare the lines.
Damn, I hate it when that happens.
I sure like the brake lines from NAPA, Autozone, etc that have the fittings already installed, they have a black/green coating so they dont stand out too brightly and they are easily bent by hand.
With careful layout, a few junction blocks (straights and 90's) and knowledge of available lengths, a nice job is achievable, I've done both my roadster and my 67 Nova this way.
If I remember correctly, the section lengths come in increments of 10" versus by the full foot, such as 20, 30, 40, 60 inches long.

 

Note to self: type faster, see above^^^^^.

 

..........Excellent advice! Don't ask me how I know.

 

All joking aside, I take brakes very seriously. Like you were working for NASA or Boeing...ok NASA, make every thing perfect, no "that's close enough". Drink after you are done and not during (this will also aid in not flaring the ends without the fittings in place).

 

You want to pressure test only with brake fluid. Bleed the system until you have some pedal, then use isopropyl or denatured alcohol to clean all fittings and connections. (The alcohol does a great job of cleaning the connections and any spilled brake fluid) Next, apply about 150-200 lbs pedal effort for 10 seconds or so and check for any leaks or weeps, if the pedal holds steady. When you are sure the system is tight, continue final bleeding, and a final high pressure check.

 

That green coating is fine on my rusty old DD truck; but doesn't belong on a hot rod.

 

Check out NiCopp line. It bends and flares much easier.

 

You may also want to tape the fittings onto the tube. Otherwise, they slide around and interfere with your work. Actually, I flare one end then use masking tape to hold the fittings while I complete the flaring job. A careful clean-up is in order.

 

I like the ones at Napa. Different lengths, inexpensive, and the flaring is done. It sure saves a lot of headaches.

 

The difference between them


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