so bondo or body filler...can it be applied over and or under lacquer without adverse effects? any tricks?
Back in the laquer &enamel days it was generally considered correct to remove all paint by grinding , then Bondo , then primer , then paint , laquer or enamel ...
Some new fillers can, according to directions, be applied over properly prepped and aged/cured finishes. Unlike the old days before it was available epoxy primer is my first choice over filler no matter the type of color.
^^^what he said ^^^^ New higher end fillers can be applied over “fully cured finishes” Check the tech sheet for the filler you use. They can be found by googling the product name and/or part number. Applying fillers over epoxy is a normal procedure now.
i was asking because im spotting in some repairs on an old lacquer job and it has some rock chips, itd be nice to be abke to just use some filler, ill check down at our paint supply store
Don't be talked into using "spot putty" In the day before catalyzed products a product called "Nitro Stan" was used to fill sand scratches and minor imperfections. It was nothing more than lacquer primer in paste form. Today's catalyzed fillers and glazes are far superior.
This is absolutely correct. But we all need to remember that laquer does not cure, it dries. It is a Thermoplastic, not a Thermoset like todays 2k paints.
Agreed here also NOTHING over lacquer period.. We always ground down to metal do the mud work, primer, sand and paint in that order. Lacquer is not a catalyzed paint it is constantly drying and shrinking hence the lacquer checking after several years. Todays paints are catalyzed and the mud used is formulated to work in the same way. Now if you had some of the paint left over one can dab it into the small chips and do your touch up. CLEAN and sand before dabbing though.. At 50/50 no one will see it any ways
When the European finish companies first started marketing in the states most recommended going to bare metal, then their etching primer, epoxy primer, any metal repair (or body filler if you use it), urethane primer, blocking, urethane primer, sealer and single or two stage paint. While we thought the process was way overkill, I have been out of the "production" business for 25 years and still have a number of Glasurit and Sikkens paint applications that look as good as they did when they left the shop. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations. There are a number of good finish manufacturers. Do your research, pick a good one andwoork their process. Just my 2 cents.... Sent from my F5121 using Tapatalk
I don’t think you will have an issue with a 2k glaze or spot putty. Scuff it up a little first. Others saying not to put filler over lacquer are technically correct. I don’t think you will have any issues with small chips. We did this back when gm lacquer was still showing up in the body shops in the early 90s Spot putty over a chip sometimes shrinks a little over time and can still be visible if ya know where they were before. It still looks better than a painted over chip. The sharp edges of a chip do not allow the filler to feather. Another possible chip filler is to touch up brush some paint in the chips and allow to dry. Then continue sanding. We did this in blend areas to help repair chips without having to prime. This preserved the blend area.
For some small chip repair I'd do like stated above. Get some same paint (or leftover) dab it in and build up a fill that way, then lightly sand and buff. If I'm doing chip work on anything thats my preferred method. That or strip it all the way down and work up from metal.
As stated above lacquer is not a catalyzed paint, It is constantly drying and shrinking and in turn cause problems down the line... IE: Lifting, peeling, cracking and such. Like putting bondo over a rust hole it will always come back and pop out. Maaco and Earl Shibe does not use a catalyst in there economy paint (you have to pay extra for it) And will get same results as.
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