1952-59 Ford Can I limit total advance on a loadomatic?

Since I've had the 54' back on the road it has been running hot (195-215+ degrees) and it wanted to die when coming to a stop, and it wouldn't idle below 900 rpm or so. I also ****ed up a bunch of trash from the fuel tank, and limped it home the day that it happened. So, I cleaned and rebuilt the carb (again), replaced the fuel tank, all lines and filters, took the practically new fuel pump apart and cleaned everything out. I added a little 6 volt fuel pump back by the tank, just to help starting after its been sitting a while and the float level has gone down. I replaced plugs, plug wires, coil, condenser, points, distributor ground, coil wires, vacuum advance can, and carb gaskets . After that weekend it was running better but still wanted to run hot and die at stops unless you gave it a little choke, and still wouldn't idle low. SO, I put a timing light on it and brought it to 3 degrees BTDC with the vacuum advance pulled and plugged. Now it will idle at 550 rpm, I doesn't die at stop signs, and temp hasn't yet rose above 200, but I now have a knock, I presume spark knock, when the engine is under load at higher RPM. So I took some timing out of it (just a bit, didn't even get the light out) and it did lessen the knock thankfully. Of course then it rained and I couldn't road test anymore (no wiper motor yet) and I've been stewing on it since. Here's my thinking and questions:
1.) I could keep retarding the timing until the knock is gone, but what if low RPM performance suffers and Im back in the original boat? (wont idle low, dies coming to a stop, overheating)
2.)How can I limit the amount of advance that the vacuum achieves? Is there a "stop" that can be installed? I say this because if it just didn't knock, Id be happy as hell....everything else seems ok.
3.) Sidenote question...what is normal operating temp on these? I've never found a range or number.
A few more details to divulge, as I know all the gurus here like info.
-1954 Mainline with a 223 and 3 speed, all original running gear, holley 1904 carb
-currently pulls 18 on the vacuum gauge connected to the manifold at 550-600 rpm idle.
-only ever run NON-ethanol gas but only 87 octane (all I can get without ethanol)
If anyone has any words of wisdom, Id love to hear it. What would you do at this point? and what would you do if that netted unsavory results? I appreciate the hell out of all those more veteran to the cause of saving some old steel than I, and I thank you all in advance for any input.
James in TN

 

You might have carbon build-up in the cylinders causing the preignition.

 

Thanks 40cpe...the only reason that I didn't jump to carbon, was that with the ignition retarded (before I set it) there was no knock, just idle issues and running hot. Does that make sense? Should I run some oil in the gas or ATF through the carb? How would you go about carbon clean up? Once again, I appreciate the help.

 

I see your reasoning. A layer of carbon increases compression as well as possible spots to glow and ignite fuel. I would use something like Sea Foam or Marvel mystery Oil down the carb, smother the engine, and let it sit for a while to soften the carbon. Have you put a timing light on the engine to see how much advance you have compared to spec? As far as I know, you limit the advance in the load o matic by bending the spring tabs outward or increase spring size. I've not investigated to see if there is an adjustable diaphragm for the advance available for that distributor.

 

Thanks for the recommendation. I've only set initial timing on the light. I'll check to see where I'm at at higher RPM too, just hadn't yet since I don't know what spec is....I guess a little googling will yield that info. Much appreciated.

 

Just use the combo pack https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...WcSUPpEk-BaITDjfaeIaAkZlEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Aerosol in the Carb and liquid in the tank.

 

Thanks Jeff! I'm guessing that you say carbon also and not just timing? Anybody have an answer for normal operating temp range for a 223? I've got a mechanical gauged hooked up in place of the sending unit and stock dash gauge.

 

Having to pull the choke out to keep it from stalling indicates a vacuum leak which may result in a lean condition. Check all your vacuum hoses, check the torque on the intake

 

Thanks Paul...That issue is gone after timing. I also snuged the carb down a bit more. It had a stack of gaskets under the carb and even though I couldn’t find a leak using carb clean or ether, I replaced them. The only issue remaining on the last drive was a bit of spark knock. I tweaked the timing a bit more when I got home today and it sounds great at any rpm in the driveway. More crazy rain though, road test soon to come. We shall see. Still curious as if anybody can quote a normal operating temp though. I seem to stay between 185-205 now, and didn’t get over 170 in the driveway running for an hour at varied throttle. Hoping that’s normal. Also what would anyone consider overheating? It never pukes but the 215+ I’ve been at in traffic seems excessive. Thanks again, Sir.

 

Running temps: Your thermostat should determine the approximate coolant temp in the engine. If you are running a 170 degree stat the engine should ideally stay around 170-180 degrees. although I have no factory specs, I would think your 6 cylinder should easily hold those temps. 205-210 would concern me and if the engine is in proper tune and condition would look at the radiator. If you have access to a laser thermometer you can read the temp at the inlet and outlet of the radiator. Ideally it should be about 25 degrees cooler at the bottom but I've seen cars function with a 7-10 degree difference. The fan can make a difference but if yours is original it should be adequate.

 

Thanks 40 Cpe. It is original setup with 180 degree stat. The radiator was a unit I got from fellow Hamber "cka7". It is original replacement. It only had 500 miles put on it from new when Chip had the 6 in his car rebuilt, then decided to go with the amazing setup he has now. Im just wondering if any other people here with a 223 want to divulge their temps....seems I'm just not that popular. LOL. I really do appreciate the help though!

 

Did the Seafoam in the tank and carb. I believe I loosened a little carbon and blew it out but no big change on the knock immediately. So, I drove around for a while with a 1/2 wrench and a flat head in my pocket. I stopped probably 10 times. Every time it would pick up the knock under load, I’d take a little timing out of it. Every time the temp gauge would creep, I’d put a little timing back in it. Got to the point where I was moving the distributor in such small increments, I’d really have to hold it down when tightening the clamp bolt to keep that from advancing it. Finally found a sweet spot! I tuned the carb after, and she’s purring at 475 RPM at idle, no knock, and running 185 degrees cruising through the hills of east TN at 60 mph for around 45 minutes. No problems, I’m stoked.

 

Persistence pays off. Well done!

 

And what a great feeling when it does!