there is a possibility that the air pocket is where that sensor is.a long shot but something to check if possible.
Another 60 miles and no leaking from the transmission! That's a major releif If it holds up. I'm going to talk to my ****** guy tomorrow and find out where it would leak if it was overfilled. It was just in the 70's when I made the run, made a lot of stops, etc. No overheating. Now I'm pretty sure the air pocket was the issue last Thurs., but of course still need to get the fan fixed, and a new rack is on the way.
I had a similar experience in my 40 with the fan not running when the temp sensor called for it but ran with a/c on. Turned out to be a bad 70 amp relay.
That's good to know, Joe. One would think if the relay worked for one, it would the other. Yes, requests from two areas, but I would have thought they both fed the same relay. Strange, but as I said , good to know. I was going to call Ron Francis tomorrow and ask a few questions. BTW, on my car, the engine temp signal is handled by the engine harness.(Ron Francis/ Televork panel). The wiring from the 2 wire water temp sensor goes to that panel, while the one wire sensor goes to the trinary switch on the Vintage Air. My A/C relay is not the one normally on the ch***is fuse panel..I have a separate 60 amp relay/fuse, probably like your setup.
I mispoke, the coolant sensor I talked about does go to the engine harness, but it's for fuel injection info for the computer. I have another in the back that actually is the one the Fan relay uses. It is a one wire that provides ground when the sensor is activated by high temp. Ron Francis told me to find the sensor that had a green wire identified as "sensor ground" and ground it to the block. I did, the fan came on as soon as I turned the key on. He wanted me to remove it and test it, but I said.we're looking for what almost has to be a bad sensor or bad connection at the sensor, right? He agreed, so I told him to send me a new sensor and connector so I could just reinstall the new one and not have to spend time confirming a bad sensor then waiting a week to get in the replacement. The sensor is set to turn the fan on at 205. My engine under normal cir***stances never gets there, so basically when I'm driving, I've probably never had the fan unless the A/C was on. The faulty sensor or connector probably never turned the fan on the few times it got to 220. I'm going to splice into that ground providing wire and add a switched ground wire. That way, I can turn the fan on if I want to, but not interfere with the automatic operation if I can get it to function with the new sensor.
My fan issue was the sensor. As soon as I provided a ground to that wire, the fan came on. That ground should have been provided by the sensor at 205* New sensor and connector (the probable culprit) on the way. When I replace the sensor, I'm also going to add a switch so that I can manually turn the fan on/off if I want to. I have the wiring all figured out to also have an indicator light on only when the switch is activated, and not when the fan is activated automatically. The trick there is a diode in the wiring. After 1/2 dozen trips with the '57, the fluid started coming out the spout on the bellhousing inspection plate again. Only this time it was in the garage, not on asphalt. The first time it happened, the car was on my asphalt driveway, and I couldn't see the color. That, combined with the fact my ****** fluid level dropped 1 1/2 quarts led me to erroniously ***ume it was ****** fluid. This time I put a cup under the leak and caught 100% coolant! So.......good that the ****** wasn't leaking, but how the hell was coolant getting in my bellhousing? I finally realized the coolant pipe leak, I was aware of, was worse than I thought, and it was sitting over the valley between the heads. When the coolant level got high enough in the valley, it would run out at the back right over the join seam between the bellhousing and engine. No seal of course on that seam, so some of it was getting right into the bellhousing. Hugh relief knowing it was just a misdiagnose on my part, and my ****** never had a leak. The 1 1/2 qt. low fluid level was probably the torque converter refilling. this self-induced stress is gonna kill me, lol.
This is quite the roller coaster ride. Glad to hear that the ****** is okay and that you likely won't be pulling the drivetrain out again. Fingers crossed that you get the overheating sorted out and get to follow through on your summer plans.
Just read my last two posts....sorry for the redundantcy. A senior moment. The overheating is sorted out. The initial rise in temp was caused by an air lock in the coolant system. That just exposed the fact my fan wasn't coming on to cool things down. Got leaks to fix, but they were not the cause of the overheat. My rack came in yesterday, so I started removing the old one. This morning I've got to pull the leaking cooling pipe so I can go get the correct size o-ringsso I'll have them here for the weekend, then I'll get back to the rack replacement. With any luck, I may still get to do the July 4th show in Santa Fe.
think of the good side you saved money on a gym membership.with your at***ude and drive you will make it
Slowly checking things off my "issues" list. I did find the correct 0-rings I needed for the coolant pipe at a hydraulics shop. Turns out they were metric, makes sense, 90% of the engine is metric. No more coolant leaks. The t-bolt hose clamps I also found at a hydraulics shop are working great. The steering redo I did while the engine was out is a huge improvement. The new steering options we have make steering sooooo much better, I didn't realize how much better it could have been had I got it right the first time. While I was redoing it, I kept wondering if all the time I was spending was going to be worth the trouble. It was. My coolant fan issue is fixed. The new sensor does turn the fan on at 205 as it is suppose to. After some major head scratching trying to figure out why my new install of a manual cooling fan switch wasn't working, I finally realized I was making an ***umption on which way the current flowed on my circuit tester. That mattered because it is what I used to install the diode on the grounding wire. A diode only lets current p*** in one direction. I did not want my indicator light to come on when the fan was energized by the heat sensor, I only wanted the light on when I switched the fan on manually. I was using the switched ground for the ground on the light. The diode, once installed properly, keeps the ground from traveling up the wire in the reverse direction. In other words, I have a ground wire that can be activated from two sources, but only wanted the indicator light on when a specific one of those two sources was initiated. Hope that makes sense. One of the '57 Fordsforever members gave me that idea. My new rack got installed, but I have leaks. Some of the Cavalier racks that are used in these conversion kits have machined bosses where the pressure/return ports are. The machined boss allows for use of banjo fittings that use crush washers. That's what I had set up, but the new rack did not have the bosses machined. I fiddled with it a bit and took the chance I could get them to seal, but they don't. New fittings/adapters that use an internal o-ring are on the way. I had a squeak in my engine that turned out to be a belt tensioner pulley. Got it replaced.......no more squeaking.
What “options” are you speaking of? What did you do and what improvements happened with the steering?
Options.....I was just talking about the Borgenson box and the rack and pinion kits, and the fact they are so much better than the oem steering, that even with my linkage not being correct (had a little lumpyness), it was still so much better, the minor lumpyness almost didn't matter. The changes I made were mainly raising the point the steering column exited the firewall by a few inches. This put a little more angle on the top u-joint that almost had none at all, but reduced the angle on the bottom double u-joint that had too much. Easier for me to do that than most guys because of my articulated steering column, but I still had to modify the firewall support bearing bracket, redo the custom cover I had made for the large hole, make a new double D ss shaft, relocate and modify the lower heim joint support. The steering column required no changes whatsoever. I'll see if I can get some pics posted.
Sorry I made you repeat yourself I seem to recall those changes you made. Been working on a 52chevy truck with MII front end, new rack, u-joints etc. just can’t seem to find that sweet spot it once had so I’m always interested in someone else’s experiences when working on steering.
I saw your post on July 4th about the leaking rack. With that I guess you did not make it to Santa Fe?
Haha....funny.....I DID make it to Santa Fe in the '57 , Just not in time for July 4th! I got the parts on the 5th, installed and no more leaks. Raining Saturday all over the world, so when the sun came out Sunday, I decided to take it for a run. Got some stuff together and told my wife I thought it was finally ready for a road trip.I was headed for Russell's truck stop on I40, just over the line in New Mexico, but told the wife I'd call her, if everything was looking good, I might just keep on going. Ended up doing the Santa Fe, Taos, Red River loop. 730 miles. Got back a few hours ago. Car ran great, mostly. but a few odd things I'll chaulk up to the computer relearning at this point........when I first hit the mountains, sluggish as hell. After a few hours, it started picking up and acting like it use to in the mountains. I finally remembered to use the altimeter function I have in the GPS speedometer, and got up into the low 9000ft level at one point.
It's good you were able to go. 730 miles is a good shakedown run after all you went through. I am happy for you!
That is a long ride in a freshened up car. I'm glad all your hard work paid off. I doubt I put 700 miles on my car in 3 months. But yours is more open-roadworthy than mine is and a lot more comfortable.
Looks like you had another drive in the 57 Rich, saw you headed west on 40 today (Sunday). Sure looked good going down the road. We were returning from Colorado, don’t usually go thru Amarillo but did this return trip.
Hey Joe. Yep, just a short 120 miler. My dog needed a ride, and I had to get away from working on the kitchen, lol. I like the rest area at the 125 mile marker on I 40 westbound side, once or twice a year I'll just head out that way. My engine was starting to feel a little sluggish this past week, so added some fuel injector cleaner to see if that would make a difference, and it did. Still need to get my fuel filter changed...it's waaaaaaaaaaaaay overdue. Colorado.........any chance you went to the Thin Air Nationals in Green Mountain Falls? Really wanted to do that show again, but too broke.
No car stuff, just family vacation stuff. I have seen your car setting in Ft Worth but going down the road is a different look, and it looks GOOD.
Thanks Joe. I really don't like it with the hood off.........gotta get busy on that. It just doesn't look right with no hood. I DO like having a car that is recognizable though.
The Jalopy Journal
