Technical Got My T finally running but I have a ?

Hey everyone,
Finally got my T running. I had a issue with the throttle cable and linkage. I fix the issue and it shouldn't be a issue anymore.
I turned my T on and left it on for about 20 min, i then drove it to my cousins driveway which is about 5 min away. I parked in the drive way and turned the T off and all of a sudden it started spitting out coolant from a small hose by the radiator. A good amount of coolant came out. My cousin was there and he said he thinks that its missing a container to catch the access coolant. I let the T cool off for about 15 min. I then took it on the highway for a mile. I took the first exit and drove back to my driveway. 3 blocks away from my house my T shuts offs . All the power goes out, i put it into neutral and pull it over to the side. I put the T in park and let it cool off for about 60 seconds. Turned the T back on and drove it back to my driveway. When i got to my driveway and shut the T off . The coolant began to spit out of the hose again. The gauge was at 220 while i was driving the T and it was at 220 when i shut it off. ( water guage)

Is this the drain coolant hose for my T?

Does it need a container to catch the access coolant?

Could there been something internally wrong?



Thanks everyone for the help.

 

yes you need a puke tank...

 

^^^^^^ yes tank.

You puked the coolant out the first go round so when you drove it home it was low on coolant and over heating...

 

The small hose is the overflow hose that comes from the neck and cap. Once the pressure is too high (caused by high temps) the cap lets coolant out the overflow till the pressure goes down enough. Modern cars have an overflow catch can that keeps the coolant until the pressure is lower (a vacuum) and then it is ****ed back into the radiator. Not a lot of hot rods use these tanks. Yours obviously wasn't built with one.

You don't need one, but you will need to be aware if the car overheats and pukes out coolant that the level will then be low. You will need to add more the old fashioned way.

I'd say that letting a big engine just sit and idle with such a small radiator raised the temp a lot. Then driving it at high speeds and shutting off instantly didn't let it have enough time to come down. The episode where the whole engine shut down is odd, and possibly caused by the high heat affecting the electrical system, or maybe the fuel lines and pump? You were lucky to get it restarted so quickly. Usually overheating takes quite a while to cool off and whatever component cool off too.

Make sure your electric fan is working properly.

 

A 160 degree thermostat installed wouldn't hurt either.....

 

He's way above 160, I bet it would take two minutes for that engine to reach that temp.

 

I wish I could diagnose things over the internet !!

 

Yes it was at 220 while I was driving it. The fan looks like it works properly. I turned the key just to let the fan cool the engine for 2 to 3 min.

I'm gonna fill the radiator tomorow and drive it for a while to see if it happens again. If this keeps happening is a puck tank a good idea?

How much coolant is the proper amount of coolant to add to my raditor ? How much is too much?

If i add a over flow tank or puck tank i would have to put it near the end of the hose and make it air tight so no air gets within the setup. Would doing this make the coolant go back into the radiator?

Thanks everyone

 

If you fit a puke tank, the hose from the radiator has to reach to the bottom of the tank, this allows for coolant to be ****ed back, on cooloing down.
Also the radiator cap needs a rubber gasket on the surface that seals on the top of the radiator, this seals the overflow pipe/system, and prevents air being ****ed in, instead of the coolant..
Radiator caps of the same pressure are available with or without the rubber the seal,, so check them out..

 

Would something like this work ?


https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spee...-Overflow-Expansion-Tank-3-x-10-In-,2953.html

 

Besides running hot you may have vapor lock at the fuel system.Let it rest,and it starts again.Hot days find you weak links for ya.

 

For the radiator overflow tank. Do i need one with two holes or should i just get a over flow tank with just one hole?

Will it make any difference?

If my radiator is shooting the coolant out of that hose would it shoot out of the second hole of the two hole over flow tank?

Should i just get a one hole radiator over flow tank for the T?

I posted a picture below of what i am speaking about

 

Before your spend any $$$, and to test your theory, you could mount / secure a decent size ( 2 ltrs should be enough) plastic bottle to the car, put 2 holes in the top, one to hold the o/flow pipe in firmly (pipe to the bottom).
The other hole, can be smaller (1/8'') to let the air in / out as the level alters, and go for a drive, see what happens..
If you have an O/T Jappa car, check out how the overflow tank / pipes are set up..
The cans in shown in your pics above will do the same thing..

 

You will need to switch to a recovery cap with a puke tank.
Otherwise all the puke tank is doing is keeping your driveway clean.

 

You NEED a larger radiator. The one installed is too small for the work it is being asked to do. Otherwise, the coolant temp would not reach 220 on the hwy. Function over form applies.

Ben

 

Could i modify my current cap to be a recovery cap?

Thanks for letting me know that my radiator is too small. Do you have a link of how big it actually should be ? Or a link to one that is the correct size with a price to it.

Thanks

 

Oh, boy......

 

Could i modify my current cap to be a recovery cap?

Also since my radiator is small would a expansion tank with a recovery tank be a good idea in my situation? Since my radiator is too small.

Thanks everyone

Thanks for letting me know that my radiator is too small. Do you have a link of how big it actually should be ? Or a link to one that is the correct size with a price to it.

Thanks

 

At this point no one can say if the radiator is too small, u puked out a bunch of the coolant letting it sit and idle for 20 minutes. That's probably why it overheated on the hiway.

First fill up the radiator, be sure to purge all the air out, install a make shift over flow can. Take it out and drive it and see how it does.

IF At that point WITH a full and purged radiator and over flow it still over heats check thermostat, if thermostat is good then radiator is too small....

 

The ordinary cap will need a rubber washer/seal (I cut one out of an inner tube) to where the cap twist / locks on top of the radiator..
There is just a steel ring fitted as standard, it will need some rubber lube, silicon spray to ease fitting of the cap..

 

The thermostat is upside down????

 

Nope.

Donuts are on me if I am wrong. Hope I am. Wouldn't bet against me , though.

Ben

 

^^^^^^I think that this should be of some concern to you unless your car has a overheating cut out switch ?
I can’t figure out how others know that your radiator is too small, ( really thinking that it’s mainly ‘air cooled ‘), but then I’m a guy that drives around in an old flathead with no fan at all so probably don’t understand this type of stuff.

 

Do i need a second hole in the puke tank? To allow air in?
Or can I just take the hose and put it to the bottom of the bottle. And make it air tight so no air comes in. I put some pictures of the puke tank I think I'm gonna go with. They look like they only have one air tight hole.

 

I hope that in the interests of safety that your puke can is plastic, not gl***.

 

Do the old radiators have caps that pop? Every picture I see with a old T it has an old school radiator cap with an ornament on it.

Below is a picture of my radiator cap. Can I add a radiator cap gasket to it?

Would a popping radiator cap even work on this setup ? And would it work better?

Thanks everyone

 

Yikes. I don't think your radiator is pressurized at all. That looks like a radiator built like an original T had. No pressure, and it will boil over at 212 degrees (higher with proper antifreeze in it). There is no modern cap you can add to make the pressure higher.

Sometimes radiator builders make a decorative cap on top that looks like an old original but is actually a dummy that goes nowhere. Then they have another neck and pressurized cap in the backside of the tank. Yours doesn't have that.

 

Your pics help out here. It may work, to add a modern fill elbow (aimed up) on the engine side of the rad. tank. Then plumb yr puke tank to the overflow tubing.
The original could be sealed (cement?)
and still have coolant, to drive the thermometer.

 

I think this is something similar to what Pitman is talking about:

In addition to that modification, you would need to seal off the current overflow pipe.

 

Ok. I think i fully understand now. Thanks everyone for the knowledge.

So for a overflow tank to properly work it needs to have a proper cap that is covering the overflow hose at the top of the inside of the radiator. Once the radiator is hot enough it pops the cap and when it does that it opens up the over flow tube. This over flow tube sends the coolant to the over flow tank in which it holds the coolant until the engine cools down. Once the engine cools the cap will try to close. When the cap tries to close and the coolant travels back to the radiator and allows the radiator cap to close back to to how it orginally was.

Let me know if thats wrong.

My question now is :

Do they make an adapter for the old T type radiator cap which will allow it to pop open?

It looks like you guys are telling me im gonna have to weld that elbow on to my radiator, right?

There is a extra small hole here. Is this for anything ? You can see it at the top part of the radiator in the picture. I don't think it does anything because it would of had coolant spitting out of there.