Technical Got My T finally running but I have a ?

No it won't work for your system as you cant get the air out from above the top hose in the top tank. It is a nice fitting and the second one is more a drag race thing with no radiator. You will still need to fill the radiator from the top, that is the highest point. I have already mentioned that you should have you radiator pressure checked just make sure it will handle the pressure and give an indication of what pound cap you can use. JW

 

Got it thanks guys.

Im gonna try to do the pressurized overflow tank like @26 T Ford RPU has on his T. After doing this . Ill go to radiator shop to check the pressure of the radiator to make sure i have the right cap on.

That other option i posted is alot more $$$. So im definitely gonna go with the pressurised over flow tank. I just wanted to get your opinion on the other option.

Thanks again

 

The cap you put on the overflow tank will determine the max pressure....

 

The pressure test of the radiator will determine the max pressure of the cap. But if it tests ok at say 14 lbs for example, use a cap the next pressure down for safety. JW

 

@26 T Ford RPU
Just wanted to let you know i started the process. It looks like I'll have to put my pressurized over flow tank on the p***enger side of the radiator because the fan is wired and a relay for the fan is on the drivers side .

I wanted to get help wiring my radiator fan. I found a diagrams online. I understand them.

I want to add a thermostat switch to the inline of the transmission radiator . So that it can automatically turn the fan on when it is necessary.

I wanted to know what size tubing i would need to add the inline thermostat to the transmission radiator. I posted a picture of how the pipes look going into the radiator..

I also saw sensor on top of the transmission. The sensor has 2 purple wires . One wire goes to the starter and the other one goes straight inside to the T's dash.
Is this a wire to the ignition?

I own a probe. I use to install car stereos when i was 18.

If i probe the wire and turn the key to the on position and that line goes from positive to negative. Then that should ***ure me that is the ignition wire. Is the right guys? Or am i missing something.

 

On a light car the trans will not be working that hard and i doubt it will need fans for the cooler but would fix that flattened cooler line an make sure the tubes have a flare on the ends to stop the rubber joiners sliding off.. JW

 

@26 T Ford RPU
Ok cool . Thanks for the info again. Ill try the pressurised over flow tank first and then take it from there.

I went to the radiator shop. I picked up a small br*** neck.

I asked the shop owner how much it would be to solder a neck onto the radiator. He told me that he wouldn't want to do it because if its an old radiator, it won't be able to hold it.
I then asked about pressurizing my radiator and he also said he would not do it.
I didnt ask him why.

This guy works on cl***ic cars and trucks and does alot of work for a crew in NJ.
He told me about a cl***ic car event called dead mans curve in Mawah. I think that may be the group name as well.

I just need help out figuring how to pressurise my radiator properly.

I wanted to know which tool i should purchase to pressurise my radiator?

I also wanted to know if i would put the tool into the original radiator hole or would it go on the overflow tank one to test it? (logically thinking i believe it goes into the orginal radiator hole )

Does the meter on the tool tell me the pounds of pressure is in the radiator?

How much pressure or pounds would be good for this radiator?( 5-7 pounds)

The shop owner also said that he would put a 3 - 4 lb cap onto pressurised overflow tank .


Thanks for all the help
Thank you everyone. I apperciate it.

 

I would have thought he could of checked i, not till it failed but at least till it started to bow a bit and that would record as a bit much so you would then use a cap at the pressure the tank was ok at. He most likely didn't want to blow your radiator to bits but it can be done carefully. Any raise in pressure is a win, JW

 

Listen to the radiator man!

Ben

 

Another option that i think is better in the long run would be to update the radiator that will suit a later Model T shell. That way you are starting out with a pressure rated unit and you will only need a regular overflow can. Just throwing it out there. I feel that if the radiator you have now isn't up to much you may be chasing your tail. JW

 

Nice!!JW

 

I think all those big flat panels would be a problem for running any pressure. Every time it pressurized it would bow all of them out at least a little. When the pressure releases the panels will all change back at least part way to original shape. So lots of in and out movement will no doubt start causing cracks. Modern radiator tanks are covered with ridges for stiffening them during pressure changes.
Probably best to spend your money on a modern radiator and a br*** shell (cover) now instead of later.

 

@Fabber McGee
I have never seen a br*** shell cover for a 1920 model T radiator.
Do you have a link?

Thanks

 

No

 

Your tank looks like it has a pressure style cap. Typically that only has a cap. The pressure cap is ideally at the top of the system so all the air is relieved.

Cooling is a very common subject on this site. Here is one good thread;

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/cooling-information.812968/

 

All those caps, T and A are sealed. The air gets out the overflow tube that is just under the cap. JW

 

I'm not seeing an inlet on your new catch tank ???

 

I was pointing out the fabricated copper tank with the pressure cap.

Yes, stock T’and A’s use a non-pressure cap/system and the overflow tube allows for expanded air and water and the cap is at the highest point. Typically those systems are run with the water level below the cap .75” to 1.5” depending on the system to allow for expansion.

A pressurized system has the pressure cap only on the radiator. It contains pressure, not make pressure.

With a coolant recovery tank the fluid is allowed transfer, with a specific style cap, from the radiator to the recovery tank when hot and then siphon back fluid the system cools. Thus, a recovery/overflow tank can not have a pressure cap because that would not allow the siphon action. This arrangement helps minimize air in the system by keeping the radiator full and excess air is transferred out thru the vent in the recovery tank.

Having said that, too much pressure on a large tank is not good and with about 2-3 degrees reduction for each pound of pressure a 4 -5 lb. cap will only raise the boiling temp about 8-15 degrees. Maybe that is enough.

Cooling problems can be a bunch of little things. To me this system in question is too small, has a potential air lock, may have restricted air flow due to the fan set-up, not to mention whatever engine tune-up and condition may be.

The original non-pressure systems work to a point. Pressure systems worked better and pressure systems with a coolant recovery tank work the best in my experience. There are many factors to consider and a lot of opinions about what works. It is important to understand each style and how best it suits a build for it to function well. Not to mention other factors like air flow, fan style, shrouding, etc.

I still suggest to the o/p to do more research. Here is some more info:

https://www.cruisingworld.com/understanding-coolant-recovery-bottles/

 

He hasn't put it in yet, i waited till i had done the mounts. JW

 

Proartguy, thanks for your in depth tale of the cooling system. As for a pressure cap on an overflow tank not working, well let me just say how wrong can you be as when i was a mechanic back in the 70's-80's the British Austen's had this very system and i have used it on several Falcon upgrades and on my T RPU and they work and i understand how and why they do. JW

 

JW, Thanks for your correction. I believe your reference is to an expansion tank which typically used with a low mounted radiator, so it has a pressure cap, as pictured. Not the overflow or coolant recovery systems I described.

I was pointing out what I have found works since I have vehicles with each of the systems described and all work well. Living in an area where hot weather is common an effective system is necessary and have solved may cooling issues over the last 50 years. Your use of an expansion tank is yet another way to construct a cooling system. It appeared the o/p was constructing some sort of overflow or recovery system.

My intention was to help the original poster, not to get into an argument with anyone. There are may opinions about what works on this topic. I will not add further to the confusion on this thread and hope the o/p solves his problems.

 

Hey thanks for the information guys.
Everything is appreciated.
This is a huge learning experience for me. And i thank all information and help.

This is an update.
Im waiting for the cap to do anymore soldering.
Just wanted to show the entire work.

Thanks again everyone

 

So now the fluid will have to get hot enough to overcome the pressure rating of whatever cap you install on your catch tank , something doesn't compute ???

 

It does't matter if the cap is on the top tank or on the recovery tank, it will still need to overcome the caps pressure rating..that's how it pressurizes. You are simply shifting the pressure control point further along the system and the overflow is still at the cap. You could put it in the trunk and it would still work. JW

 

It has been my experience if a radiator boils over going down the highway it usually has poor flow through the cores,,,,partially stopped up. I see you have a nice electric fan on it,,,but a fan is not needed above 30 mph,,,only at low speed or in traffic or idle.
***uming the water pump and engine are in good working order,,,I would suspect the radiator,,,just my 2 cents,,,good luck.
Keep us posted on what you find is the problem.

 

One thing i noticed with the electric fan is its mounting frame. it seems to block a lot of the core therefor restricting air flow, i refer to the pic in post #24. JW

 

Should it be lower?

 

What be lower? JW