long story short what should I expect to pay for a driveshaft made or possibly lengthened . It needs to have a slip yoke at trans end a center bearing and slip yoke in center . Location is near Lake Tahoe/ Reno
Do your best to find some used parts possibly a used shaft with useable weld yokes. Will save a ton. A new 2 piece will be $500 easily. Find a used 2 piece shaft and have it altered for $200ish. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I used to get shafts shortened locally for around $125.00. On my last 3 build I bought brand new balanced and painted driveshafts off of EBAY in the exact length I needed for about $135.00 with free shipping from Florida. They were perfect.
I've always had the best luck price wise with finding the largest shaft I could and have it shortened. I don't think I've ever paid more than 150 for the work. The last one I took two shafts in so he could use two of the same yokes and he built a new shaft with the two yokes. That was $ 150 and well worth it.
Last one I had Inland re-tube one from an old one with good yokes...cost a little over $200 with 1350 U-joints
Summit has shaft kits that work great ! I have used 2 of them . But ,,,,, ! you better have some good welding skills ,plus a lot cheaper than having one made , and not have to balance either shaft . !
I has one made from scratch in 2016, I supplied the slip yoke and it ran me $300. 3.5" tube, all Neapco and Spicer parts.
I'm being over charged the cheapest in my area is 280 Every time I take one up to be shortened they say nope can't do that kind. So I get a new tube and ends 280 to 320
The 4X4 Shops can custom make you one. I had Tom Woods make mine as their reviews all seemed positive. They did a great job and weven with shipping, it was pretty reasonable. I think it was around $400 shipped for Standard Slip 2 joint type B with a yoke on each end. I think a big chunk o the price was the shipping as it was like $80-90 just cause of the oversized box. http://www.4xshaft.com/ 1-877-497-4238 Click on their page before you call them, then click on their Measuring Guide. It will tell you everything you need to know to measure and order what you need. http://www.4xshaft.com/MeasuringGuide_p1.pdf http://www.4xshaft.com/MeasuringGuide_p2.pdf http://www.4xshaft.com/MeasuringGuide_p3.pdf http://www.4xshaft.com/MeasuringGuide_p4.pdf http://www.4xshaft.com/MeasuringGuide_p5.pdf You just need to measure your bearing cups, overall length, and if you need a slip joint, or a splined end.
Thanks guys the reason I put the area smart mouth is because I'm new here and don't know any recommended shops fairly local and also wanted to see if it changes much in different areas I stoped paying and have made my own for years with basic tools so I have no idea on cost I've even balanced some with old known tricks allthough they rarely need it but I have like 12-15 of them here and can't mix and match the right parts to make this 2 piece one . Thanks for all The replys The advice on eBay and summit is interesting as summit is right here so I will look into that.. so Much for long story short Thanks again
I agree but this one needs making longer and I haven't any here long enough to cut down I even got some 3 inch tube only to discover the yoke ends wouldn't fit as the wall thickness was wrong and I don't have a lathe I thought about grinding to fit but I can't gaurantee a true centered fit Then when I mixed and matched Parts with 2 slip yokes and a center bearing the damn rear uj was just a bit too big for the axle flange yoke So I'm back to either going to a shop checking the options listed here or finding a more suitable piece to use or modify and I'm not going to pick n pull to sweat my ass off and pay $100 for one to cut up
About $25 if you can find the right length one at a good junkyard in their huge pile of old driveshafts. That's what I used to do.
Driveshaft with a carrier bearing is going to be very costly if all new. I just spent almost $500.00 for my last one, but it's going on a high HP application and no carrier. My old Willys needed one with a carrier bearing. I went to the local scrap yard and removed one, had to cut down one end. The Willys with a flathead is not much HP and not much RPM, I have had no issue with it and it runs smoothly. Your exact application will determine how perfect it needs to be. Tom Woods, never bought one from them but I talked to them about the small vibration in my Rubicon. They told me to save my money it would not help. My son had a non-rubicon and he ended up buying one from Tom Woods, great service and a quality product.
Question, do you need both halves of the two piece shaft or will one half work with a new or modified other half? When I swapped engines and transmissions in my 71 GMC we just had to modify the front half of the two piece shaft to fit the length of the new trans. Cost is going to be the labor rate for that shop with their overhead costs added plus the parts.
Last one $200 and the the guy came by the house and did the measuring. Included one rear yoke and joint. Delivered it the next day..
Had a 70 1/2 in length shaft for a AOD in 85 Ford truck(was 4 in longer than C6) and cost $525. I was not happy!
Guess I should consider myself lucky. Had a Dodge drive shaft shortened and balance to 4K a year ago for a little over $200, including a new Neapco u-joint.
Can you post a picture of what you have, and let us know what section needs to be modified? Some stock car suppliers sell shorter shafts, for about $160. If you have a shaft now, and can get away with replacing a simple section, you might get away cheap.
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