Hot Rods Power Window???

I recently purchased power windows for my coupe. I was reading the instructions and they say to make sure that when all the way up the bottom of your gl*** sits 4" below window opening. Mine only sits about an inch below. Anyone else had this issue, or am I going to need to get new gl*** ? (32 Plymouth 3 window, specialty power windows)

 

How does it hook to the gl***? The 4” is probably insurance that the gl*** lower channel doesn’t hit the window opening in the door. I hooked mine to the original gl*** mount, it works like factory. I’d try it before I went and bought longer gl***, in fact, you might not even have enough room to get a longer gl*** in.

 

I don't have any of the original stuff for this car, it hooks to the gl*** by securing the gl*** in the channel then the channel bolts to the regulator that came with the window kit. From the looks of it , it's not going to work unless I make a 4 " extension on the regulator because there's not enough room it go up that far. The gl*** only sits about 1/2" below the top of the door when the window is all the way up. Does anyone have access to a regulator and the channel the gl*** sits in for a 32 Plymouth PB 3 window coupe if so, could you post a picture.

 

Chop the top 3". That should bring the gl*** down.

 

On a more serious note, try making a temporary masonite window that is taller and see if everything works.

Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Power windows in a hot rod???

 

It does work but the top of the door gets a lot smaller, I made it out of concrete board . I figured it would be heavy like gl***. I would rather have mech windows but parts are not around for this car. No one makes parts for plymouths . Then again that's the fun of it isn't it

 

There's one of the reasons then, the taper. Having as much parallel gl*** edge in the channel below will help greatly so it won't rock back and forth. If your still in the template stage I suggest you add 3". You'll be much happier down the road.

 

I went thru this on my '32 and actually went with 5" below the window. The straight part below the window is what makes the gl*** stable in the channel. The more straight gl*** in the channel the less rocking, but it also increases the drag. Find the sweet spot between stable and smooth lift.

 

I have a idea that I'd like to run by you all. Instead of buying new gl***. If I take a 1/8" plate (steel) and weld it to the bottom of the channel the window sits in, that's 4"tall and wide as the channel then attach the plate to the regulator . I was thinking it should be the same as having a window thats 4" taller. Whats you all's thoughts.

 

Flat gl*** is cheap.
Id stick to the original design instead of adding variables.
Dont overthink it

 

I did that once, when I found that the window was rocking in the door, as suggested above. I used some 1/4" round stock, bent it so that it came down a few more inches in the run channel. It's not as heavy that way, but worked well.

 

I don't know for sure, but it seems to me that would be true for a parallel sided window, but the tapered gl*** has less friction until almost closed due to the taper not making as much contact on it’s way up and down.

It’s possible the original gl*** was deeper for that very reason.

Ray

 

If the window guides(??) are in place, you could use a service belt attached to the bottom of the window and just pull them up the way stagecoaches' used to do.. I did a few model A's that way...

 

I think it would work. I'd just tack it at first for a trial, if it works, great, if not, then get new longer windows. All you're trying to do is keep the power lift mechanism from hitting the door at full upward travel. I had to shim mine a little to get them to work smooth. Always have to make aftermarket stuff fit, especially if it's a one fits all type deal.

 

Here's what I made up I'll try it tmro when I get a chance

 

I added 3 1/2"

 

I used some NORS Regal aftermarket Mopar gl*** channels to duplicate the early style channels in my '35 Ford 3W. Guessing that Mopar used the down facing extensions to try to stabilize the tapered gl*** without making the window itself taller.

 

I used Speciality Power Windows in my Olds convertible and used stock height gl*** in it. Whose windows are you using?

 

The Gl*** man Placerville, Ca
I had a chance to try out the parts I made they work good I appreciate the advice thanks

 

I’m glad that everything worked out ok

 

That's good. Thanks for posting the update. The bridge you made looks light, and solid.

 

The power windows kit was speciality like yours , easy to install

 

^^^^^ The battery off of one of those makes a great power source for testing install. Just watch what voltage you have. A few years back it didn't matter.