Battery shut-off/starter relay/starter switch installed under seat. Added some brake line hangers. And started on the fuel line.
I removed the sending unit from the badly rusted original tank and cleaned it up for use on another tank that I picked up from a friend. The replacement tank had been modified for quick-change clearance, and there were some pin holes to patch, but overall much better than the old tank.
..After some (many hours of) elbow grease and polish compound. I can’t do much about the cracks and I can’t bring myself to recast the original bakelite. Any ideas?
a little filler, something hard like JB weld or maybee Araldite and 2k the entire rim in a shade as close to original as you can have mixed ..
Epoxy with dye in it would be my choice. Leave as much original as possible and just fill the cracks.
The steering wheel is really nice, and functional. After everything else on the car is done, get back to it.
Fixed! (Not really). I must agree that there is plenty else on the to-do list and I am enjoying the original hand-worn surface as is.. so I jammed some mustard cloth wire in the two gaping cracks for now.
Very helpful info. Thank you. I’m not interested in re-painting the entire wheel after the repair, but I did like the super glue and baking soda idea. I might try that sometime in the future to patch the cracks.
I cleaned up a beat trim piece and installed the gauge panel. I found a used repop “choke” knob for $10 bucks and patina painted it brown on top the glossy black. It should work for now.
I think I finally wrapped up the rest of the wiring, ignition and charging. It looks like a spaghetti mess under the tunnel but it was a lot of work for me. I’ll make it pretty later if I discover everything works.
looks like you have a good handle on it all- very cool man! thanks for sharing this progress with all of us
Thats what my friend said yesterday! I’ll be switching to the stock 32 type clamp and relocate the line to the dimple in the firewall.
Move the FUEL line to stock firewall location (I have the clamp you need). The brake line brackets are '39-'48 FORD and are dead on period correct for a post war hot rod as this build is. @jimmysweden Do your research, nobody was welding on tabs or running street rod brake lines back on the dry lakes after the war.
I don't need to do any research. for me it was a matter of taste. But of course, Better to nothing say than say it wrong..
I don't mind the 1940 Ford brake hose bracket one bit. Just what they would have used in 1940 to hot rod that little roadster.
Use the steering wheel the way it is it fits the build and looks great as is. I agree, change out the fuel line, the rest of your build is so nice would change out to the original clamp and hole. Also your cut out, I had one like that on my 35 coupe and it was a POS. I'm sure you could find a nice used original.
Good advice, thank you. Ya, definitely changing that now. To what what cut outs are you referring? Nice engine compartment. I dig the bent choke/throttle rods to keep everything parallel and uniform.