hope this is the right section. I am mixed up on converting a 37 ford coupe to hydraulic brakes. the research I have done says it cannot be done on a cluch car without a special hi-buck kit and all the dual outlet master cylinders I thought of buying only work with an automatic transmission. to swap to hydraulic brakes, I have to get the tci kit for about $475 then that also forces me to swap the clutch to hydraulic and get a slave cylinder for the transmission. I guess my main questions are has someone done this and will a slave cylinder shift a stock 1937 3-speed transmission? thanks.
Who is feeding you that load of ****? Probably a shop wanting to sell their overpriced junk. A '39 pedal ***embly (ideally) or '40 will replace the mechanical pedal ***y. Then run lines and exchange all backing plates. An adapter for a dual reservoir MC is optional.
39-48 hydraulic brakes are a direct bolt on to your 37 spindles. Or if you rather there are number of affordable disc brake kits also. Use 39 pedal ***embly and your all set. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The 39 pedal set is a direct bolt in after you carve a little clearance in the hole on the X crossmember. Not too much needed. The 40 pedal set will require all the clutch linkage aparatus from a 40 too. Not as simple of a conversion. If you want a dual master cylinder, there are small adapter plates that will change the bolt pattern and attach it directly to the 39 mount.
this can all be done with original Ford parts. Lets you use 39 to 48 brakes, and you can swap to latter F1 or F100 brakes on the front for self energizing brakes. Please don't buy the stupid street rod ****. you don't need it and its no where near as good as the Ford parts that's you can do the conversion with. @alchemy is right, you need a 39 pedal ***embly to make it easy, then a set of 39 to 48 rear brake backing plates, then a set of 39 to 48 front backing plates, or a set of 48 to 52 F1 front brakes, or 53 to 56 F100 front brakes. The latter truck brakes are easy to find and cost around 175 to completely rebuild with new drums and all new brake parts. Several ways you can go. You can go to my build thread (Link below) and in it I put later F100 brakes on my 39 standard in it. way easy and stops better.
They also sell a master cylinder mount that will make your life a lot easier. Do a search on them, you will find a lot of good feedback. Charlie Stephens
all the dual master cylinders on speedway motors said they will not work with automatic transmissions and a local street rod shop also said the only way to do it is to buy the tci 600-6571-56 Clutch & Manual Brake ***embly Universal Kit for about $475. From speedway motors: For the master cylinder, i was thinking of: Universal Power/Manual Master Cylinder, 1 Inch Bore Part # 91031445 for $60. For the front, i was thinking of: Complete Disc Brake Kit 1937-48 Ford, 5 on 5-1/2 BC Part # 91031909 for $320. For the rear i was thinking of: Bendix Style Emergency Brakes for 1937-48 Ford Rear, 12 x 1-3/4 Inch Part # 91065430 for $600. Speedway 1940-Design Early Ford Banjo Rear Axle Wheel Hub, 5 on 5.5 BP Part # 91065460 for $160 x2= $320. Speedway Early Ford Banjo Rear End Axle Wheel Bearing Part # 91268125 for $45 x2= $90. 12 x 2 Brake Drum for Bendix Style 1937-48 Ford Brakes Part # 91065400 for $98 x2= $196. Main parts: $1,586 I have a lot more reading to do now. thanks so much guys.
I've only spoken with the guys at the V8 Garage once and that was regarding a 1 1/2 ton truck which they don't deal with BUT they were very helpful and offered good advice even though they weren't going to be able to sell me anything. That said, you shouldn't commit to any type of conversion until you had at least spoken to them about about what you are trying to do. They may not be the source for the direction you want to go but they sure as hell will point you in the right direction. JMHO.
What in the world does having an auto or manual transmission have to do with a master cylinder working? Sounds like you are listening to some bad info.
I just changed my 35 pickup to juice brakes. I used a 39 pedal set and stock master cylinder. I had to trim the pedal hole out a little and shim the bracket to line it up with pan. I used a dropped axle and 39 spindles. My brakes were the 46-48 types. I used a hydraulic brake lite switch. I ordered my master cylinders and wheel cylinders as a set from Macs. They work, but it takes 3 different wrench sizes to bleed. Chinese parts. The master cylinder boot is so stiff that it acts as a return spring. Use OEM push rod, because Mac’s is soft medal.
Did they say why? ‘Cause I can’t think of any way that this statement makes sense. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
In In all my years selling parts, I have NEVER seen a master cylinder for manual or automatic transmission. ABS no ABS yes, Cruise or no cruise yes, traction control or not yes, disc/disc disc/drum drum/drum yes, even seen with different wheel bases. GM had some strange ones like std linings and metallic linings was different masters, removable rear carriers and non. And the list goes on. Again NEVER auto and manual transmissions. Maybe was a typo for Power and non power masters?
I'm guessing all the master cylinder stuff is related to the vendors believing you have to have a booster to use disc brakes, you don't. Non-power discs work just fine. While original Ford juice brakes will work; your '37 needs everything, depending on used parts availability along with your skill level; it may make more sense, economically to just buy new stuff. If you do go with that F series disc brake kit; be aware that not all wheels will fit and most of the time you have to do some minor grinding on the caliper; otherwise they are nice and do not push the wheels out like most kits do. While the Lincoln brakes from Speedway are good; the rear drums and hubs from Boling Bros would be a better choice. I would clean up the original rear bearings and use them if OK; new ones are not so good. As mentioned several times, a '39 pedal ***y with a three to two bolt master cylinder adapter is the way to go. A 1" bore '68 Mustang disc/drum master cyl may work for you. You will need residual valve in the front line and one for the rear if the master doesn't have one internal. Plumb in a proportioning valve just in case.
Bryan, going back to your first post, sounds like you just want to add hydraulic brakes. You have the original transmission and linkage. As others have suggested, get the brakes from 39(wide bolt pattern), or 40-48 Ford car. Just trying to keep it simple. Get the 39 pedal ***embly and fit to your ch***is. The brake parts will fit your spindles, etc. It's all early Ford, but works together. Your clutch linkage will be mechanical, your brakes hydraulic. If you want to add a dual master, there a simple adapters available to bolt manual master cylinder up to the car. You'll have to run steel lines and add brackets for the flex lines. in either case.
combined with what multiple tech guys told me, here is a sample of the info i found as to why i thought i had to find a specific master cylinder; NOTE: Will NOT work in conjunction with the factory clutch pedal. Intended for use with an automatic transmission https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1935-40-Ford-Master-Cylinder-with-Pedal-Bracket,3290.html a man in decatur il will be doing this conversion over the winter. thanks.
That new brake pedal ***embly won't work with a factory clutch pedal because the clutch pedal won't attach to it (they used a singular mount from the factory). Has nothing to do with the master cylinder only working with an auto or manual. I see you are new to old cars, and you should probably spent a little time sitting underneath your car looking at the parts. Staring at how stuff fits together really helps you understand the operation of them. And check out pics of the 39 pedals, and the diagrams on http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_partsdrawings_links.htm You will be way ahead of the game if you know how stuff is supposed to fit together. Even if you plan on hiring it all done by someone else, you should still kinda know what you are talking about.
hi alchemy, you are right, I don't know what is under there but I can't sit or even lay under my car. Bryan
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