I am starting the process of cutting my windshield, will be doing it using the sandblasting method, and am looking into what would be the best way to set the WS in, either using urethane set or a gasket, the project is a 53 Olds, 4 door converted to a 2 door I am actually leaning towards the urethane set more than a gasket due to body flexing (and the smoother look). I made sure the A-Pillars are reinforced well, but this is a big first for me so I would like to cover all my bases, and would like to get more input from the pros, recommendatins, products, etc. Rey
From my experience, I think you'd be way better off with a standard-type gasket seal rather than a glue-set. At least with the rubber, you're allowing the body to flex independent of the gl*** to some degree; if you glue it in, you drastically, if not almost completely, reduce that. See what I mean? Also, your gl*** "shelf" would need to be is accurately consistent as possible. The other thing to consider is the look--I prefer the look of a good old-fashioned rubber seal (even better with stainless trim) over a glued-in piece.
It's not so much that, but the fact that the urethane bonds the gl*** directly to the body; the rubber seal holds the gl*** and the body separately.
On modern cars the windshield/back gl*** are structural parts of the car, different gl*** than you are using. I would go with the gasket for all reasons previously mentioned.
As BELLM said the gl*** becomes structural. As far as different gl***, not the windshield. They're still laminated as far as I know. If your opening is nice and consistant and you can get some decent lookin "christmas tree" outer trim the urethane deal could be OK. I personally hate those big ugly gaskets from that time. It'll be a trick to get my 54 Chev pu flush fit but that's the way I want it. You can get chrome WS trim for the edge. In my case it'll match the door trim around the side windows. Good luck with it. I hope some others chime in.
Something To Keep In Mind That Has Not Been Mentioned... New Gl*** That Is Ment To Be Glued In Has A Ceramic Coating On It .this Coatin Helps Th Gl*** Bond To The Ureathane ,also Keeps Out U.v. Rays Which Will Make The Glue Turn Loose. Given Th Price Of The Windsheild You Might Not Want To Find Out The Hard Way How Much The Body Flexes.the Blackout That S***ch Is Talking About Will Not Help The Gl*** Bond With The Ureathane.i've Seen This Done And Seen It Fail(the Automotive Adhisive Reps Don't Recomend It Either) Id Stick With The Old Tried And True Gasket. Just My .02 Good Luck, Spanky
All good arguements, and like everything else they are just opinions. and I have one also. 41 years in the gl*** business does not make me an expert. BUT.... Factory reps have led me down paths that I did not want to go and several times it took two or three years for problems to occur and they just send out a revised update Whoops SORRY!! and offer a new revised product. also as said factory reps represent their product and the first thing they worry about is lawsuits. having said that there is so much new technology coming down the pike that the gl*** business is always searching for a better way. (I didn't mean to get windy but I'm on a rant now) I started in business in 1965, 1963 buick special was the first glue in and spread thru GM in 64, Ford followed in 65. Chrysler took it's time. 1974 U.S Government and the factories mandated that we switch from silicone to Ureathane, we fought it to no avail, then actually found Ureathane to be far superior but not without problems. most have been worked out in the last 32 years (damn time sure flies when you're having fun!) Today there are several systems available and the system reguires that you use all the products in said system. very much like modern paints. you can use products from several different companies and it MIGHT work fine. I think the problem with most amature installions that have problems is short cut or lack of information. (Rant Over)
I'm a traditionalist. but I do what my customer ask for, to the best of my ability. I prefer original gaskets without the V-**** but only 25% of my customers feel the same. I do tons of V-****s and Flush Sets (Ureathane and some kind seal strip) without going into detail (I will do a tech soon) there is a place for everything. Ureathane sets (on factory installations) add a minimum of 20% to the structural strength of the vehicle. that sounds like a good thing for chopped vehicles, once again the arguements go both ways here, added strength and also I've seen stress cracks from body flex and also the Ureathane torn loose from the body or gl*** from flex. the biggest problem is cars that were designed for gaskets make the windshield 1/2 inch to small for the opening. thats why I recomend you get the gl*** cut and make the car fit the gl***, that way you don't have to worry about finding someone to cut one later. older cars with flat gl*** have no problems and it better to cut those after you're finished but before paint
Use A Gasket More Forgiving If You Use Urethane You Might Have Too Do Some Work Too The Pinchweld Depth Wise Also Just My Opinion Take A Grinder With 36 Grit Green Paper Too Cut Down Your Windshield Works Great Trivalleygl***.com Good Luck!! It's Always Good To See Someone Try It On There Own That's How We Learn
The Jalopy Journal
