I was getting my block ready to go to machine shop,,,,(Desoto 291 block),,,and was removing all the old core plugs and galley plugs,,,,down to the complete bare block. There is one plug that I cannot get out. It is the inner plug on the left oil galley. I was able to remove the outer plug,,,but cannot get the inside one to budge. Is there a trick to this,,,or should I even worry about it. I am assuming that all the old Hemis were like this as well,,,Chrysler,,,Dodge,,,Desoto. It looks like a 5/16 square hole for removing the plug,,,is that the correct tool? I would like to remove it if at all possible. Tommy
SHOCK is what you need...if you just figure out ways to apply more torque to a stuck plug, pretty soon you will be looking at a perfectly round hole. Get an impact driver, cheap and effective https://smile.amazon.com/648002-Dr-Impact-Driver-Kit/dp/B004QO9FK2/ref=sr_1_4? keywords=impact+driver&qid=1569612468&s=automotive&sr=1-4 With a carefully inserted bit and proper grip a hammer blow is transformed into a very sudden and powerful twist
Look around for a proper punch socket...this will be more difficult than getting the basic tool. something like this search "impact driver sockets" will pull up a way.
I’m keeping my options open at the moment . Just didn’t know if it was all that important. It is the end if the line in the oiling system and I wasn’t too sure if it was worth the trouble. That side only oils the lifters,,,and like I said,,it is after the last lifter. Thanks for any help or advice you can give. Tommy
If all fails---next options are two. First, you can probably run in a straightened coat banger or such from the other end of the tunnel. Mark the distance, and on outside of block then figger out if just the thickness of the plug remains. If so, drillitout...once you have hole through its heart it will very probably be loose enough to weasel out. Other option...forget removal, just clean thoroughly several times from both ends. Clean and then clean again, because you cannot teell whether you are dragging in crud from side tunnels.
Yeah,,,I was wondering if drilling would be a good option? Had already considered it. And if enough guys that have gone through this before advise to not worry about it,,,i will just leave it alone. I believe in listening to experience! LOL Tommy
well, getting it out helps remove sludge & caked up oil. I've had to use a liberal amount of various penetrating oils over a period of time to get one particular one to budge, usually they not a problem.
Heat (from a torch) and paraffin wax. Heat the block at the plug, then touch the stick of paraffin to the plug. The heat will allow wax to wick into the threads. Then slowly back the plug out of the block. -Dave
I just ordered the correct tool,,,,a socket that fits like it is supposed to. I will update when it comes in and if it is a success. Tommy
Getting the plug out is definitely a plus as the machine shop will be running a long brush through to clean out the galley and there’s most definitely crud built up at the end. I have found the bests way to remove plunges in this situation is to concentrate the torch on just the plug and get it red hot. And I know what everyone is thinking it’s going to expand and your all rite. But when it expands it can’t expand in diameter because of the block so it gets longer and and shrinks the diameter. So have your socket ready and when it’s red put the socket in and put pressure on it and when it cools it should pop loose and back rite out. I have removed hundreds this way. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The old machine shop I worked at did it the above way with heat, except we had "Easy-Outs" of the right size ( a hair bigger than the square hole) that we hammered into the plug and then quickly unscrewed. It always worked.
The correct tool/socket arrived today. It looked like good quality but I was still nervous. It worked like a charm,,,it was almost effortless. I put it in the plug,,,,used an extension to give more room at the rear,,,applied some pressure. I was using a 3/8 drive breaker bar,,,,I didn’t want to risk my good ratchet,,,and it worked great. It might have took 30 ft pds to break it loose,,,,or very close. I am glad I removed the plug,,,,there is probably an inch and a half of crud in there. I stuck a screwdriver in the galley,,,,and it felt like it buried up in mud,,,literally. There is no way to get all that crap out with hot tanking alone,,,,maybe most of it,,,but not all of it,,,,unless the plug is removed. I ordered the socket this past weekend,,,,Saturday,,,from Amazon,,,it cost a little over 16 bucks with shipping ,,and arrived today. Awesome quality too. Here are some pics.
Congratulations! Don't forget the bottle brushes and rifle bore brushes. After you get it back from the machine shop you'll want to scrub the block clean. Then again and again. Dawn detergent has worked well for me. -Dave
Oh yes,,,,I always clean all the passages before I take it,,,,and again after I get it back. I always do the crank passages as well,,,never had a failure. Tommy
I know this question isn’t in the title of this thread,,,but it still pertains to my block. I see that there are lock washers on the main cap bolts,,,,I really don’t like this! One of them has a broken piece missing,,,,which is why I can’t imagine using them on main bolts. I am wanting to replace them with some hardened flat washers,,,,I think that would be a good idea. What say y’all? Tommy
I’ve always been a fan of studs but if that’s not an option for you then I agree with the hardened washer. ARP sells just washers in in most sizes. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
What about line bore? I have read that if you change from bolts to studs in an engine you have to line bore/hone the mains..
Yeah,,,I have some studs. This is not hardly that high of a horsepower build though. I have the hardened washers already,,,,just curious about the lock washers. I assume that the factory bolts were of excellent quality,,,,I just don’t like the locks. I have heard about align honing the mains for studs,,,,,unnecessary unless it is a high dollar,,high horsepower build in my opinion. Mopar always had better main bores than was reported,,,,usually very accurate. Your block really looks great though,,,,,good workmanship! Tommy
Anytime you change hardware especially when going to studs there’s usually different torque specs which can distort the bore.I would install whatever hardware was being used at the manufacturer specs and check with with a bore gauge. On heavy cast iron blocks its usually not a problem. And I agree with the hemi’s having great crank bores. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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