That would be true if he was using a draft tube. Since he has a PCV system it needs a closed up motor. If his oil cap is vented he is pulling down the fill tube and right into the PCV valve. There would be no circulation through the motor[/QUOTE]
I'm not seeing a front port for the draft tube. That's why the PCV system. Not that it wont work, but your intake, I believe is fabbed from a carbureted one, but that should have a draft tube port also. The pop off valve is in a spot I have never seen one mounted. The person who fabricated the carb intake system certainly had the talent to make the blower intake. It's pretty wild!
I think you need to make sure the PCV system is working properly. If it is, you shouldn't have positive pressure in the motor that would push oil out the dizzy. Is the valve good? Is it proper size? Does the hose need replacement? Is the oil fill cap sealed? (Edit) Can't have the intake air next to the valve. Then, do you have the correct vacuum? If all the above is working properly. Then the dizzy has some type of clearance or seal issue.
Is there a Hot Rod club around by you? Most flat head guys would would give their eye teeth to wrench that creation.
I'm sorry Solid, I don't agree. Even if he has a good working PCV (the "out" vent) he will need an "in" vent. You can't seal the internal engine cavity up. It needs to breathe.
I looked at a chevy system and they do have an entry way. So yes It does need to breathe. It needs to be on the opposite ends of the motor or system so the entire motor is evacuated. It just can't be side by side.
Boost will not be seen above the rotors, no matter the driving conditions so there is no effect on the PCV.
That is correct . My bad wording. I thought he was pulling vacuum for the PCV system off the manifold below the blower. After looking at his pictures again, it appears the connection is above the blower, hence no boost at that point. He should attach a vacuum gauge and see what it reads under all conditions.
Oh I have a guy about 45 minutes away and he would take care of it. I thought it could be something not too hard and I could take care of it on a weekend. This might be more of a ‘winter’ fix when we’re not driving the car. Only a month or so left of driving this around here. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Have you got the breather baffle installed, it allows the air to flow through the crankcase first before it enters the valve chamber where your pcv valve is. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I don’t think it has one of those. I am not sure the breathing of the engine could be the issue or maybe it is. Engine has been in this car about 20 years, and from what I hear car ran well most of the time but he had issues. Sadly my father in law is dead so I can’t ask him. But someone told me a couple weeks ago (the person that sold him the Weber Carbs), that the SCoT blower had been bouncing around new england for years and no one could get it to work and he managed to get it working, because he could fix anything. I don’t have the skillset or knowledge to be modifying the intake. I’m at ‘swap an old piece with a new piece’ skill level, he he he. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
UPDATE: I bought another distributor at a swap meet and took it apart to investigate. It seems the Ford/Mallory 2-bolt distributors are designed to allow for some oil to go into it to lubricate the shaft. The shaft has grooves to draw in a little oil and the body of the distributor has a hole at the bottom to let the oil drip out if too much. That’s the way I am reading it. The issue we still have is this: we drove the car to a show an hour away, no problem. Car sat for 4 hours. Started right up and drove it to someone’s house a few minutes away and car sat a couple hours. Started right up and drive home. About 35 minutes into the return ride car starts misfiring. Misfiring get progresively worse as time goes on. It is brutal in any type of hill or sudden acceleration. Barely made it home. This is the second or third time we’ve experienced this. Almost as if the car can only drive for 1hr45min on a day!!!! Will try calling my hot rod guy today. Puzzling. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I think the grooves in the shaft are meant to carry the oil back into the engine, not into the distributor. The oilite bushing should soak up a little oil just from having the end of the shaft and the end of the bushing in close proximity to the oil splashing around the end of the cam. The little hole on the bottom of the distributor is probably meant more for water moisture to seep out of than oil. See the little screw on the end of the tang drive? That has a felt wick behind it that draws a little oil into the end of the shaft to lube the small front bushing. Is the screw still in your offending distributor? If there's no screw blocking the direct route to the felt, maybe way too much oil is making it's way down the hollow shaft.
Ahh!!! Yes it is still there, the screw. The amount of oil getting in is minimal, and it’s just around the edges of the circle spinning part, not on the cap and not on the points, so I don’t see why it would cause the misfiring. But maybe any amount of oil is bad. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It sure feels/acts as if something is over heating and then causing a malfunction. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I put a coil on it today which is a new coil, the canister type, to see. I can’t imagine why different coils would act up, probably overheat, unless there’s an issue somewhere else. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
