1952-59 Ford Self adjusting rear drum brakes for my 55

Since I am having to replace my rear brake shoes due to my leaking rear axle seals I would like to change to self adjusting. I know that the FAQ post is no longer there, does any one have the needed info?

 

In 1955 Autozone shows two listings for rear brake shoes the #55 shoe is 11" X 1.82" (1 3/4")wide the #228 shoe is 11" X 2.07" (2") wide when you measure your shoes and determine which one you have we then cross reference that to later models that use the same shoes with self adjusters. That is how I got the ball rolling on the self adjuster install,when you get the measurement let me know and I'll help you with the hunt.

 

Thanks Jeff, 1 3/4 is what I have.

 

I went to my local Oreillys and luckily they have a really sharp new guy who found what I need.
I bought the following parts, all Brake Best brand. H7144 which is an early Bronco with 1 3/4 shoes. H2541, H2540, H12. These are needed to get all the parts required. I probably could have done without the Bronco hardware but I wanted new shoe retainer pins[nails] and that was the only way to get them. I did not want to reuse the rusty and bent old pins. The guy that I bought the car from had installed new shoes using all the old hardware. I did have to use the original springs for the primary shoe.

 

Well I feel pretty stupid. The drivers side requires making a new access hole for the star wheel on the adjuster. Never noticed until now. Not looking forward to taking it apart.

 

EZ to do. Make sure the emergency brake parts clear everything. Print a drawing of the Bronco rear brake off the net and use it.

I have 11" F-150 rear brakes on a 8.8 Explorer rear in my 56. I wanted to keep the same diameter as stock. You don't mention fronts but I would not not do self adjusting drums. They adjust up too tight when you stop in reverse. Good luck.

 

Disc on the front. Why would I print a drawing of a Bronco brake.

 

I think if you are using stock backing plates, the hole for the adjuster should be to the rear of the car. I just did a set of self adjusting brakes and all of the adjusters were to the rear of the car. Maybe you have the wrong star adjuster. Pull the end cap off and see if it says R or L, they are directional. Dave

 

Thanks Dave I will check it out, although if the star was to the front I don’t see how the lever would turn it. I do have stock backing plates. Do you happen to have the part numbers for what you used?

 

Dave, here is my left rear brake ***embly. Please advise me as to what I have done wrong. Hope your health issue are improving.

 

that is the way mine look okiedokie had to cut a new hole in the backing plate for the adjuster not hard to do

 

It looks like you did every thing the way it should be. It looks like Slick is right. You will need to make a slot in the backing plate for the initial adjustment.

 

Sorry, off topic a little but seeing as you're on here with us again NascarDave, I see Okiedokie has the primary shoe retracting spring installed on top of the secondary spring. In the Ford manual it has a big bold statement:
Note: On all brakes, the primary shoe (front shoe)retracting spring must be installed first. I have seen it both ways many times and seems to work. This has always plagued me as to, does it matter and why.

 

Why would I print a drawing of a Bronco brake.[/QUOTE]

You didn't say you had already put them on. I know it's not rocket science if your familiar with what you are planing. When I'm retrofitting a part from another year car I like to see exactly what it looked like when installed originally.
I never knew about the spring location on the pin. It must have something to do with the self adjuster cable end. Ford would not say it if they had not found a problem years ago.

 

Ok jimmysix, that makes sense. I did print a picture for reference. I think that the hole difference is because on the originals they were installed to match the hole, with no adjuster lever it didn't matter.

56bird, I did it that way because I watched the FAQ video and that is how they did it. I did not see that statement in the manual that I have for 60/70's Mustangs.

 

And that looks right because it helps hold the self adjust cable against the backing.
In my dirty '56 Ford shop manual... why I thought Dave might know - maybe things changed?

 

Your right I missed that one. That was explained to me 50+ years ago. In high school auto shop that if the primary shoe spring went on first because it would have less chance of falling off. If it fell off or broke the shoe would drag against the drum because of direction of rotation. If the secondary spring broke it would be less friction because of direction of rotation. I also attended a number of brake cl***es, with all Bendex style brakes, the primary spring is always attached first. Dave

 

Thanks Dave, so now we know. Always thought it was a clearance to the wheel cyl. or something.
Hope you're getting around ok.
Sorry again Okiedokie for getting your thread off track.

 

No problem, education is good.

 

I have never seen a properly installed brake spring ever break. Old ones that are nicked up, I've seen 1 or 2 on customer cars when they drove in making lots of noise. On the clock, we used to install brake shoes starting on the rear since the e-brake could be a little tricky to do later on.