Hot Rods My rear end is too high! LOL

Was hoping you guys could give me some tips or maybe some direction on another kit if needed.

In no way do I want these pictures or my dialog to reflect badly on TCI (total cost involved). They have returned calls and tried to help but for whatever reason, my bad luck continues to prevail sadly.

Here is what I've got. I have a 1936 ford coupe. I just had the TCI 1935-40 leaf spring kit installed. TCI has confirmed the install is accurate (they also thought it looked high though). When I say high, see the pictures. It would take 6" lowering blocks just to make it look somewhat normal (my understanding is that is not safe).

TCI suggests after driving it, it will come down, 3 to 4 inches? Anyone experience that? If so, how long?

I'm just so deflated at the moment because I removed a rear end that had a better stance than this. Suggestions on getting this kit to work or just getting another kit that will work on a 36?

Every picture with the kit looks nice and low... but not mine.

thanks in advance for your comments and suggestions. You guys rock!

 

Take a couple of the short leafs out.

 

How far have you drove it? Do I think it will settle? Yeah. Enough? That's another question. Probably not. IMO......but if it does some the options become better. IMO.

 

That don't look good at all! I had the same problem with springs that I bought from Speedway for my '46 although mine wasn't quite as bad as yours. I wound up putting lowering blocks in mine, Speedway nor Western Ch***is (they made them) offered up any help other than saying that they were the right springs.

This picture is with the lowering blocks, I don't remember whether they were 2 or 3 inch.
Without picture's of the underside showing the springs, it's hard to say what I would advise.

 

There are only two leafs in the spring. Would that be safe?

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/TCI-...-2-Ton-Pickup-Rear-Leaf-Spring-Kit,46495.html

 

I've not drove it yet because I was seeing if I could return the kit. I'm sure if I drove it, they may tell me it's not longer returnable.

 

That looks way wrong. And no way will it settle 3 to 4 inches. 3 to 4 inches in 50 years maybe.

D you have any pictures of the arch of the spring?

Those springs should be just about flat. Everyone I know that has done the parallel leaf's from TCI or ch***is engineering have all had some amount of lower blocks in it to dial the stance in. But that is stupid high, that might be higher than stock.

If all else fails and there is to much arch in the spring, you could have the springs de-arched to bring it down, though you shouldn't have to do that with a brand new kit that is supposed to give a lower ride....

 

Here is the underneath. It is much higher than stock

 

I had to put 2 inch blocks in the back of my 51 chevy with a ch***is engineering leaf kit, to get it down right.

 

Its drooping down obviously on the lift , but dam that is a lot of space. any chance the rear shackle brackets are too far forward on the frame?

It really just look like the springs are not giving any with weight on them.

 

To get it low the leaf perches need to be on the inside of the frame and tucked up.
Weedetr:
https://www.weedetrstreetrod.com/ecommerce/bolt-in-35-40-rear-susp-kit-w-shocks.html

On my '36 I used a kit from SAC, lowering blocks and taller tire.

The '47 will get a Weedetr kit.

 

Because the kit is a bolt on (for the most part), it would only align there. TCI said everything was right. I was thinking the springs are the issue and was going to see if TCI would get me the number to the vendor they use. I should'nt have to do that but TCI told me "everything is right and just to drive it". I'm not angry but certainly feel a bit helpless after spending a lot of time and money on something which was supposed to work great. I'm still holding on for some hope that TCI will find an answer for me.

 

it may settle some, but not to the place you want it to. My ch***is engineering kit settled about an inch after a year of driving almost everyday. I put 2 inch blocks in it and it was good. With this, I would want it at least 5 inches lower than where it is at ride height. Looks to me like the springs just have to much arch in them, and not enough give to flatten them out.

 

I see nothing wrong with spring orientation or the installation of the mounts. And, I have found it necessary to use lowering blocks on both an earlier (‘47 Ford) and very recent similar installation (‘37 Chevy) to get the height ‘dialed in’, about 2”/2.5” in both cases. The first kit came from Ch***is Engineering, the most recent came from Speedway (but was supplied by TCI). I have no quarrel with anything I have received.

Your frustration is understandable. However, may I ask....do you have seat(s), fuel tank, other normal components in the car? Have you added any weights to simulate normal operating loads? Has the car had any rolling movement beyond into and out of the garage?

One thing worth noting, the suspension kit for my ‘37 Chevy was ‘on sale’ and supplied without springs. At the time Speedway was ‘closing out’ ‘37/‘39 rear springs, the same spec as had formerly been supplied with the suspension kit. I bought a pair of the ‘on sale’ springs. I did discover they were a now discontinued spring specification. I was told by a TCI employee there is a redesigned spring that rides softer than the version I have. It is too soon for me to be concerned about that as my Chevy running gear is ‘in build’ mode and I cannot yet drive it to ***ess the ride quality.

My point is, you may want to inquire if such a change has been made to the springs used in the Ford kits.

Mostly though, I tend to think you might benefit in the short run by seeing that the Ford is ***embled or loaded to normal operating weight and driving it on a variety of road surfaces at normal speeds and see what, if any, changes in height occur. You might even consider installing some lowering blocks (2 to 3 inches) and see how much closer you get to desired ride height. If you install 3” blocks, and they prove to be too much, they can be band sawed to a shorter height, so the money is not wasted.

EDIT: while I was typing my post, @Moriarity posted the video about re-arching the springs. In general I agree with that approach, but I would first drive with them ‘as is’ to ***ess the ride quality. If they ride okay, just too high, re-arch. If ride quality is too stiff, re-arching won’t really change that. Perhaps talking with TCI again to see what kind of agreement you might come to if you drive it as they suggest....or, if in fact they currently have a different spec spring as I mentioned above.

Ray

 

Unless the springs do a lot of settling you are going to have to use lowering blocks. HRP

Looking at the instructions you did everything correctly.

https://totalcostinvolved.com/wp-co...products/pdfs/35-40_Ford_Rear_Leaf_Spring.pdf

 

hnstray, thank you for the detailed reply.

To answer your question, it's fully loaded. It was an operational car before I decided to get the new rear end kit. The rear end on it was a bit worn (although the ride height was good) so I wanted to replace and make it all new. I never thought it would be like this.

It's only been out of the garage as I am trying to see if I can get a refund (if needed) or if I did drive it if that would invalidate the return.

thanks for the info on the springs. I'm going to reach back out. You guys are awesome!

 

my springs are basically flat or maybe even a slight upward curve and I still had to use a 2” lowering block to get to this stance.

 

If you can drive it do so..Add some weight to car to see how much it will take to bring down to where you want it..Drive around some more..Evaluate the ride quality..Pic shows tires rubbing on inside of wheel well; enough to hold car up [doubt it] ?

 

I've installed CE on two of mine, and yes you do have to use lowering blocks to get it sitting the way you want.
The bracketry is different though than the TCI, so not really relevant.
Looking at your pics, it appears there isn't a wrong way to install your mounting brackets..which leads me to believe the leaf springs are the culprit (no settling is going to bring it down that much), the lowering blocks required to bring that down, would have to be too tall, to where safety becomes a concern.
Another call in to TCI seems in order, to see if they've changed up their springs.

 

This is the downfall of many new age builders; They toss the "old (but still good) parts out" just to replace them with "brand new" 1-800 stuff, ( believing it's safer, more modern, or whatever), only to end up with **** results.

If they won't replace them or won't refund, you should post a pic of the shackle angle when the car is on the ground. If the shackle angle is already to a normal rearwards position, then when/if you de-arc the leaves, the shackles might be too far back and binding over bumps....(because de-arc will make the springs longer).

Total Cost Involved? ...apparently not
.

 

My two cents worth, Have you tried backing off the rear shackle nuts and then
see if it settles anymore?
I've seen some that were installed with a impact gun and would not settle
tell that was done.

 

One of your pictures shows part number 910-40000.

Someone linked to the install instructions, that says the kit is part number 404-4610-00

Possible that this is number for just the springs, I can't find any reference to 910-40000 in the TCI catalog, or the speedway site. What I'm getting at is do you have the right springs? could they be for another car ?

 

Do you still have the original leaf springs?

 

Just throw some bodies in the trunk.......
Chevy II's had a single leaf......
reverse (flip) the rear shackle.
drill an new hole for hte spring in the front chakle.
Heat up the spring...LOL
Take it all apart and put the springs in a press.
*****Add a 2-3 inch spring spacer to drop the rear ******

 

This was my thought also.

 

I had the same install on my '35 slantback and I don't think the frames on a '36 are that much different.
My leaves were also almost flat with no lowering blocks and I ran 750 x 16 tires.

 

That's also taking positive caster away making the car unstable...

 

This is your same kit on my '40. I made a 3 inch block to get it down.



-Abone.

 

Hell, on my '71 K5 blazer the leaves are flat, bet the ride is stiff with those arched springs....