I'm going through the cooling system on my 50 Shoebox, new pumps, hoses, belts & thermostats. I know that these engines are prone to cooling problems & want to do everything I can to hopefully eliminate any future problems. I have never driven this car & don't know if it had heating issues, just trying to be proactive. The new thermostats do not have a small breather hole in the body. Is it recommended to drill these out or leave them as is? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Drilling the bleeder hole in the body of the thermostat is more to help get the air out when you first fill the system than anything else but that to me is important as having the block and heads full of coolant up to the highest point in the engine proper is a real plus. I've seen too many guys fill the cooling system to the top not keeping track of the quan***y of coolant or the capacity of the system and with air trapped in the engine fire it up and drive down the road and overheat the engine because it was actually low on coolant.
Really, it should not make a difference as long as the system is filled properly. Drilling a small hole will not hurt a thing though. It’s always a good idea to test thermostats with a thermometer and a pot of water. Heat the water to confirm that both thermostats function. Just make sure the cooling system has enough water. Stock these were open systems. This means no reservoir like a more modern system. Overfilled it will just p*** the excess out the vent tube under the radiator cap. I have found these like to regulate the water level about 2 inches below the cap. Keep an eye on it when you run it and it will tell you what level is full. I ran 2 temp gauges on my car...It was pretty simple to set up. As always use common sense about opening radiators.
I think I read too much, so I have to take the stats back out of my 50. They are 180 Stant brand, and I did drill a 1/8" hole in each one. The car has not gone over 160 degrees since I put em in there, and that ain't hot enough. Specially with winter coming on. I think maybe those stats already had some little byp*** feature I couldn't see. So I'm putting some others in there. At the same time, I did have a hell of a time getting another 8BA engine completely full of water with new stats in it..........that was a new one for me. Next time maybe I'll fill till coolant is right up to the thermostat openings and then install stats.
Could you please explain why you want your car to run hotter ? Or why, as you say, ain’t hot enough ? Thanks.
Well, like I said...maybe I read too much. But it is generally agreed over at the Ford Barn 180 is just about right for these flatheads. Previously I had the same engine running at 180 and it did seem good. Put different heads on this one, and the new thermostats. and, yeah, 160 just seems pretty cool to me. Nothing else I own runs that cool.
Washers. An old timer I knew said he used washers in his. A summer set and a winter set. Just need to slow the flow down enough for the radiator to do it’s job. He said it always ran hot without the washers and he didn’t trust the thermostats. Especially 2 of em
Lose the Thermostats. Run restrictors like these. You’ll thank me. [emoji106] https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-16420
I'm running holed 180 Stants in mine & it runs 180-190 max . Max 1 cam Offy 400 heads, 30 over...... Just say'n. Mine actually ran hotter with 160s in it....go figure.
Using washers to restrict flow will increase cavatation of the coolant. Not good. Read this: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22047&showall=1 Then peruse this cooling info: https://www.google.com/search?q=fla...rome..69i57.7079j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
I hate to mess up Blushu's thread, but I've discovered some kind of 8BA thermostat twilight zone here. Yesterday I put in yet another pair, 180 degree Gates made in USA. It's been in the 50s here outside. Car goes down the road till the stats open.........both mechanical temp gauges ram up to 220, then come down to 140. Then the car rolls on at about 140 for ten miles till I get home. So I got two worries: why? and is this really hot enough? If Clem is happy with 140, maybe I should be, too. Part of my problem seems to be the new chinese radiator I put in there, it's the coolingest dam thing I've ever seen. But why don't the 180 stats keep the engine closer to 180? Blushu: Put something in there and tell us how they act.
I would really prefer an engine that runs at a consistent 180. I have some 180 degree thermostats I got from Rock Auto, that, if they fail, they fail open. My car runs at a constant 170 (which I guess is OK) except if I run an extended period at over 70 (3.55's an no OD) for over 5 miles or so. Then it will nudge 190. Bottom line? I believe 140 is waaaay to cold.
Yes,,,,140 is definitely too cold. I have read that the most effective temp is around 190 for more modern stuff. They say the iron wears better and the fuel is more efficient ,,,who knows,,sounds logical to me. I know that water boils at around 212,,,so there is not much of a buffer. I like to keep it in the 180-190 range myself,,, I just feel better. Tommy
Ambient temp makes a huge difference. In FL the ambient temp is about 91 degrees. Doubt if you would run at 140 with that. Be happy that your engine is running so cool. Plus, if you are sitting in traffic for a while does the temp go up?
I have never ran with thermostats in any of my flatheads in California. Also, I would sometimes take them out of my other cars of the 1960's.
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