I've beat on it with a rubber hammer, pulled, grunted, swore, (apparently the swearing thing is not effective) and can't get it to move. My puller isn't gonna work. Ideas?
Be sure to thread the nut back on a few threads. If you are pulling on it and it comes loose, it's going to smash your nose. I haven't seen your nose, but I doubt it will be an improvement, and the swearing will not ease the pain any more than it helped brake the wheel loose in the first place. Best of luck brute force is the only trick I know for getting them off. Thread the nut on, beat on it with a BFH while a second person pulls really hard on the wheel (you want to be the guy with the hammer).
Gibbs will loosen it up. Had trouble pulling a 50 Dodge wheel, sprayed it with Gibbs, left it overnight and it popped right off the next day.
If you aren't keeping the wheel, you may get a 3-jaw puller around the outside of the hub. It will probably dig into the black plastic, but there is always filler. Go easy on the "pound the nut end" method if the steering shaft goes straight into the steering box (and it looks like it does), as the gears in there won't like it too much.
Here's my highly technical method. (pay attention kiddies). Squirt some WD40 or similar on the centre, screw the nut back on a couple of turns and while sitting in the seat with your knees hard up against the underneath of the spokes, tap on the shaft with a lump hammer and copper or brass drift. The nut stops you from copping a face full of wheel as previously stated and helps to stop the threads from getting mashed. I've been doing this way for years and haven't come across a wheel to beat me. This includes trucks and tractors.
I'd drill and tap some holes, put the nut back on the end of the shaft, squirt some penetrating oil on it and use a puller.
Well, I've sworn at it lots, its laughing at me, so I swear more, poured my mix of atf and acetone on it, tomorrow well see how hard it laughs. The center rod does indeed go right into the box, but the box is so tight you can't steer the truck and isn't gonna be used anyway. My face? Hey boys, its a thing of manliness, my perfect nose has never been altered, despite some of my activities when I was younger, still got all my own teeth, even my wisdom teeth at 65, and those I'd like to keep. No seat in the truck, that complicates things, but tomorrow is the day it comes apart. Sorry to use all these big words (complicates?) on this forum, I realise you're all knuckle draggers, (according to tudor tony) but you're a smart bunch of knuckle draggers. Thanks for the advise.
Don't believe I've ever seen a steering hub without 2 or 3 threaded holes..mmm one for the Mopar guys....
One more step, tighten the puller real snug (using advice from above about putting the nut on to protect the threads). With tension on it, smack the end of the puller with a 3LB sledge, good and firm. Don't whack on it with a framing hammer, little ball peen, etc. The firm smack usually causes them to pop eff is enough pressure is applied.
There is special designed pulled to remove those designed wheels . This early designed steering wheel was used on lots of stuff , tractors , autos , military trucks . I was at a swap meet and bought the NOS unused puller and 3 arbors that fit different size columns for damn near free because the seller never seen one or knew what it was . It looks similar to a huge C Clamp . If I get a free moment I’ll dig it out and get some photos . My Buddy has a 34 BB that he was days trying to save the wheel and safely remove it . I took the puller to his place and while he was busy , in 30 seconds I had the wheel off . I put the puller back in my truck and later handed him the wheel he ask “how in hell did you get that off . My answer was “ God sent a miracle and it popped off ! “ I let him rant and swear for a bit then , offered him a look at the correct puller ! I’m such a nice guy ! If you are not wanting to keep the wheel drill and tap a couple evenly spaced holes and use a normal wheel puller and some good penetrating lube and it’s off .
Doublepumper told the principle right. You can buy an universal tool (looks like they're $20...30) or make one using steel bar or heavy plate.