Technical Wcfb choke question

my carb is from a 54 New Yorker, 4barrel. Does anyone know what that vacuum canister is? Wondering if it’s choke related. This is not my car, just a google photo.

 

I ask because my choke set up doesn’t allow my secondary’s to open unless I turn it all the way lean. But it’s hard to drive till it warms up.

 

That is a idle dash pod, it let's the throttle close slowly back to idle.

 

Oh ok so it has nothing to do with the choke.

 

not choke related its called a dash pot it lets the engine come to idle slowly once you take foot off gas pedal

 

Are you getting any heat to your choke stat?

 

Well I don’t think so but maybe a little. The heat tube doesn’t feel hot. It goes into the manifold. When I took it out of the manifold I noticed it solid, no hole for hot air. So I drilled a hole, which I’m not sure helped aside from the fact water was coming through, not a lot, condensation mainly. So I welded it back up

 

This is with the choke all the way open, which will allow secondary to open, that me pushing open.

 

I would look for an electric choke stat.

 

I have to lean it all the way to be able to keep the secondary open

 

Post a picture of the choke side of the carb showing where the choke tube goes.

 

If I adjust to the middle cold starts are easy but my secondary will be locked closed

 

That is the way the carburetor is set up, the secondaries won't open tell the choke is fully open.

 

If you remove the heat tube from the choke cover, with the engine running there should be a vacuum where the heat tube connects to. This draws the heated air into the choke and heats up the bimetallic spring to open the choke as the engine warms up. So first check for vacuum, then check out where the heat tube goes. There should be a way to get cold air into the choke stove and out of it to the heat tube. You may want to disconnect the heat tube from the manifold and with a blow gun run some compressed air through the choke stove to blow any **** or rust out of it. This should help you find the intake for the choke stove also.

 

Right but even when the spring opens, the plate won’t open up to unlock the secondary’s, yet I can manually open it, and keep it open .

 

K, I’m going to see if there’s vacuum. And what’s the choke stove?

 

The choke stove is the part that the tube screws onto. It is heated up by the engine exhaust. Just thought of another possible problem, the exhaust crossover in the intake manifold could be carboned up and not heating up. Also do you have a working heat riser valve on one side of the engine? It closes when the engine is cold and forces some of the exhaust gas through the crossover in the manifold, and out the other side. All of this stuff needs to be working to make the choke work as was intended.

 

Readjust the fast idle/secondary lock out linkage. The adjustment is the position of the bracket on the choke shaft. Loosen the clamp screw and move the bracket to adjust.

Jon.

 

Thanks that’s been working, carbking. Sometimes, It still won’t open all the way if I’m driving at night 40deg outside. I got a manual for a 54 New Yorker. It says the heat riser on the exhaust manifold is a must for the choke. And I’m obviously not using the manifold. But I’m happier either way. I’m think of electronic choke like someone else mentioned.

 

The vacuum source is internal to the carb, the tube going to the intake is going to exhaust crossover beneath the carb, there is an exhaust p***age going across the motor, the tube is in direct contact with that p***age the vacuum from the carb pulls the heat into the choke housing. You take the choke housing off and you'll see a small hole with a sealing gasket going from choke housing to the body of the carb and it's source will be below the throttle blades.
The p***ages etc get carbon fouled and plugged up, there is even a piston inside the choke that will get carbon fouled. Free all that **** up and maybe it'll work, probably not because over a long time period people tweek things to get them to work, the choke gets fouled so they'll start bending things.

 

I am not a big fan of electric chokes on older vehicles. Especially on older vehicles with automatic transmissions.

Test the choke to determine what is wrong. Really is a pretty simple device, it just needs to be functioning and correctly adjusted.

If you need a test procedure, call me. 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time).

Jon.

 

If you do not have an exhaust manifold heat riser , the exhaust heated choke will not work properly . Is there a heat tube in the manifold ? Is it intact ? Is it clear ? Are the intake manifold or the head exhaust p***ages clear of carbon ? Were the correct intake manifold gaskets with exhaust p***ages used? Is the heat riser working? Is the choke spring intact and functioning properly ? Is there engine vacuum available at the choke housing? After all that is the linkage adjusted properly ? There's a YouTube video on "54 Chrysler automatic choke" that might be helpful ..