Technical ***December 2019 Banger Thread. Hey Santa!***

Coming Events: (PM Jiminy with additions/corrections)
December 25th
Little Saint Nick Deliveries:
Visions of NOS banger parts and vintage speed equipment dancing in your heads.

For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:

Jim Brierley's book 4-bangers! And me! is a must read book for all banger enthusiasts. US customers send $34.00 all color except for the oldest pictures (includes S/H in the U.S.A.), PayPal welcome, to:
Jim Brierley, 39480 Colleen Way, Temecula, CA 92592.
email: jimb4e4@gmail.com
phone: 951-695-7313.

Here is a list of most of the prior monthly banger meet links:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498

Banger basics. another info link list:
http://www.fordgarage.com/

http://www.plucks329s.org/index.htm

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480

The link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/may-bang-er-thread.470853/page-4#post-5212157
and this link shows the missing image from the above post
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-work-on-bangers.1010716/page-3#post-11427055

The 4 Banger hot rod picture thread.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-4-banger-hot-rod-picture-thread.997051/

Model B rod bearing insert numbers
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6992484#post6992484

Engine tuning with a Vacuum gauge
http://web.archive.org/web/20120415...e.com/tuning-with-a-vacuum-gauge-spg-148.html

Adjusting dual Strombergs:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6638461#post6638461

Helpful Model A tools and tips:
http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/tipps.index.en.html

Gary in MN's late model Malory distributor conversion for A/B engine:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=9147025&postcount=109

Elrod's stuck head tech:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218487

Model A generator to alternator conversion:
http://ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html

Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:
http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculator.php

Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173

Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine"
http://www.scribd.com/full/40610101?access_key=key-w2bcjicdancrnxypd05

Chevy Banger Stuff
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=463465

Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=10

T-5 5 speed in a Torque Tube:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256226

New Banger Block in the Works
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/new-banger-block-in-the-works.616056/

Model A & B Style Cast Iron Cylinder Head Compression Ratios.
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/headcompressionratio.htm

 

On bangers, on flatheads, on y blocks don't stall
Keep smoke'n and leak'n
And Merry CHRISTmas to all !

 

Checking in. I've been tinkering on getting the Mitchell installed.

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Checking in … Trying to get these Carbs working .. Have a little backfire trying to find the cause.
The linkage will need a little tune-up just trying to get the backfire to go away!!

 

Vacuum leak at carbs base?

 

Checking in

 

checking in last time this year..........Damn

 

Checking in.snowed here in Lake hughes

 

A cold and snowy check-in from the Rocky Mountains....
-Passenger door lined up better on the pickup, wood all back in and tightened down, start the roof material later today ...after the shop warms up!

 

I am getting ready to install this new (to me, got it on the classifieds here from Lake_Harley) Brierley "C" camshaft, new adjustable lifters, aluminum gear, and new springs.

 

Checking in for the month. Not much banger news in the Binger shop. Its been cold and snowy and I have been working on my '50 Chevy convertible. Sorry its not banger friendly. haha

 

Checking in...been doing some more stitching...my life away...
It is a B block that has been inserted so I'd like to keep it and use it. Number three son Rodney tried to window the block as he left the scene. I think I got it....I usually am only good for 20-25 stitches at a time. I pushed today and the result was I got the cut off wheel into the block not once but twice...I hate that...oh well some paint, dirt and oil will make them disappear...

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Piddling around on the bench..engine/trans ready to pull for a few items on the 'punch list' prior to body mount,which is done,under a tarp..

 

Kroil oil is the best!

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That's because you haven't used JB80

 

Your right but I'm Googling now, lol.

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Checking in. Hope to get working on the fuel pump relocation m

 

Kroil is meh,this is the good weasel piss right here

 

winduptoy- that's some good work there. What are you stitching with? I got some lock n stitch pins a while back for a v8 project but haven't used them yet.

 

I have used Eutectic 22 with Heli Arc..Only weld short lengths and keep block temp below 150° or so by stopping often..

 

Weasel piss?? Thats a new one to me.....

 

Old tool pusher I worked for called it that. . the old cob,he cussed every other word,that old school cussin,make a stevedore blush. He was always good for a bottle this time of the year,when it got cold in the shop,miserable prick never shared a drop,he just yelled louder.

 

I am using a malleable 10-32 screw...that is what you see in the one picture.
I had an old hand show me once, he repaired all kind of stuff for the Santa Fe RR at the time and they used him up until he retired. The technique he showed me was to find the crack and drill a hole at both ends of the crack.
In this instance, I used a 5/32 drill
Tap the hole using a tap that has a long taper....you have to develop a feel for when the tap is going to break thru the finished diameter...you need to stop just short of that so that the screw binds as it reaches the end of the tapped hole.
There are products like lock-n-stitch that have a tapered bolt that does the same thing...binds in the tapped hole.
On things like 855 Cummins blocks that crack between the head stud and water jacket, I've used 1/4" malleable pipe plugs, they are tapered and tighten up or bind in the hole.
I use Lock Tite 620 Retaining Compound on the end of the screw and run it in the hole, it is green, high temperature and large gap
I use a die grinder with an abrasive cut off wheel and leave about a thread to a thread and a half protruding from the surface. Then take a small ball peen hammer and peen the material that was left kind of until there is no more surface left on the cut off end of the screw and flared out over the hole.
Then drill another hole at the intersection of the crack and flare so actually you are immediately adjacent to the screw material that was just placed in the hole...when you tap the hole, if located properly, you will actually tap into the screw material so when you run in the next screw the two are actually mechanically locked together. This also gives the overlapped look of what might be a finished welding bead....or something like that in appearance.
Repeat.....
actually drilled, tapped and placed some screws in a couple of places along the crack so that the adjacent material would stay in place as peening can dislocate material surfaces...dependent on the length of the crack.
Hope I stated this all in an understandable way....

 

The only problem is that they sell it thru a Distributor...can't buy it in the chain stores or such

 

Lottsa rain, no snow! I'm gonna go through the whole fuel delivery system first. Then start on the chassis. When I'm done with all the systems; we'll be ready to race! Photo by Tam McPartland

 

Weather has been fairly crappy so I decided to install the Riley that I purchased last year. Pulled my Winfield motor over the Turkey day weekend. 4 port fell right in place. Just need to button up a few odds and ends and were back on the road.

 

Got my shifter knob!


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Checking in, bringing back a topic from last month:

Is it the pin hole in the cam gear, that's different from A to B? Or why the difference?

Would it not be best to tune ignition by use of vaccum meter?

 

The B distrib did not have a lever to change the advance, it had weights and springs........ so the cover pin location was changed to set the static distrib timing.
Thank God they did not just move the pin detent location on the gear.

 

Can anyone reccomend a good thread on T motors? Just picked up my first last week.