I recently noticed (and am disappointed) that Chassis Engineering has closed its doors. I was considering purchasing a set of their forged ford spindles w/ GM snout(s). I had hoped to mount the drum brakes from my old '66 Impala on the '34 beam axle of the jalopy I'm trying to build. (this would give me the same 5-lug pattern as the chevy rearend also planned for the build, without the need to install disc brakes) Would those spindles work for that combination? Do any of you know if some other supplier has "picked-up-the-torch" to provide the products Chassis Engineering used to sell?
“.....with a GM snout.” Isn’t that just an early Ford spindle that has the same bolt pattern for the backing plate as original so it accepts any disc brake kit caliper mount made for early Ford? The difference is you can use 1970-‘77 GM intermediate car rotors without the bearing spacer typically needed. I don’t know if ‘66 Impala hubs/bearings would fit but for sure the backing plates would not be a direct bolt on.
Thanks for your comments folks. To Fordors, (and any other interested persons): The photo of forged spindles (for early Ford I-beam axles) in my 2006 Chassis Engineering catalog illustrates two items with distinctly different stub-axle geometry. One appears to be the original Ford shape and the other has a stub-axel which looks like it might be the '49-'54 Chevy shape which is usually used with tube-axles. (or it might be illustrating the Mopar type stub-axle; Chassis Engineering used to sell 3 types of forged spindles to fit Ford I-beam axles: the "Original spindle", the "with GM snout" and the "with Mopar snout") Regardless of the backing plate hole-pattern, I had hoped my jalopy would have drum-brakes with the same wheel lug bolt-circle dimension as my Chevy rear-end by mounting my '66 Impala front hubs & brakes directly to this product. Any further thoughts will be appreciated.
ahem is that them - chevy version I have the mopar verion the chevy rotor doesn't work on it chevy rotor is shallower by 8mm ish the mopar spindle inner bearing id is metric mopar rotor increases the track about 10mm per side same outer bearing the bearing cups are the same number, the mopar cone is metric 35mm chevy imperial 34.9 what ever that is imperial 1 3/4 this is why when you fit a volaire - i'm calling them raybestos 7032r 74 charger from now on rotors to the econo/metric kit, you have to use the chevy bearing so to recap, yes they need to do another production run - heidts, but just do them for chevy rotors - raybestos 5214 70 - 77 chevy, as the track width is better charge really strong money for them as they are real nice things supply them with Timken bearings and nice quality king pins people are more concerned with scrub radii than pcd still, you can get a vintique 6 by 16 smoothie with a 4'' back space now - well you can if they even get them back in stock...
Does anyone know who picked up the CE spindle tooling? I'm searching for at least one pair of CE chevy snout Ford spndles thanks in advance Tom
Call Pete & Jakes. When I was there on our trip to the HAMB Drags they showed me a lot of CE stuff they had bought the manufacturing rights to, as well as some old stock. Those odd spindles might be part of the package.
Another suggestion is to call Heidts (CE) and ask to be transferred to George. He has a separate number but I don't have it with me. He knows all with regard to CE stuff. Just an idea, cant hurt.
ahem, the 98-09 2wd ford ranger 11.30'' rotor/hat combined brake disc fits a 15'' wheel ford 4.5 runs a floating 2 piston caliper this rotor is 10mm narrower than the 70-77 chevy rotor 20mm shallower than the 74 charger the inner bearings id is the same as the chevy 77 rotor at 34.9mm its outer dimension is larger, the inner grease seal id is the same . its outer bearing is the same as both its rotor surface position is the same as the chassis engineering spindle - i.e. I have fit this rotor onto a chassis engineering spindle and the distance from the spindle face is the same ----------- the rotor snout area is machined, i.e. it can take a spacer which can register/spigot upon it to increase the track to whatever you require to dial in your wheel offset and tyre diameter to achieve perfect steering geometry relative to your chosen wheel and tyre. so, take a 98-09 2wd ranger front knuckle - spindle whatever add the early ford rear/king pin area invest in the tooling and add right and left caliper mounting points to them to fit the ranger caliper, or make them ambidextrous -add the brake dust sheild stock mounting points. ----------------- the caliper mounts lugs are quite spread , you will have to snake to them, but that is what you want to add strength. on the lower part of this new spindle design, have the steering arms bolt from the underneath -, below the bottom of the pin, they do not protrude anyway! - like a 1985 series 3 ford transit van, with a spigot slot - furthermore, have available these relatively flat steering arms available for sale in various lengths, plus stamp on them for wheelbase - 104.5'' 106'' plus whatever 35-40 ford is - as a sales tool. ------------------------- then, explain that now you have a ford ranger front caliper, to build your brake system, you then cross reference the rangers rear brakes thus Brake Backing Plate Rear Dorman 924-656 fits 95-09 Ford Ranger these might go on a small bearing 9'' bearing housing fit the matching 10'' rear drums buy new small bearing housings, slip them into you 3'' tubed axle tubes I think when you fit 8.8 brakes to a 9'' you need a little spacer s0 - no longer are you scouring the earth looking for 9'' ford brake parts so that's the front and rear brake done brake master translucent reservoir - low fluid level alert, slight pitch to the pot, so you can have it 'just' poke through the floor in your low mounted hot-rod, you will have to find the 7-8'' booster that works with it. ------ notes, the front rotor comes with the tone ring for abs, what do I want one of those for I here you all yell, its the 21st century is the reply. so add the tone ring pick up mount and aperture into the front spindle. so , all the fat cats are sitting around the board meeting table asking why am I just about to spank 20k investing in the tooling and cnc finishing. when, no-one will buy the brake parts from me, they will just go and get used stuff -no, no one will firstly take the time to locate and then remove used brake parts over having stuff delivered and being new, pull apart places still charge.. what, so I have to pay someone to assemble the complete front spindle prior to shipping. well I would, greased and ready -grease caps installed, supplied with 1/2'' unc acorn bulge nuts, king pins installed, with more than enough shims, guy gets the box, bolts on a wheel and rolls it to the car/truck with bare axle, drops the pin in - rolling. what about the rear brakes, yes, from the bearing housing out, t-bolts , tin gasket and paper gasket, even supply new w202 bearings and retainer rings with full retainer plates like stock oem ones - here though explain to the buyer that IF he is using fat 31 splined shafts he needs the different bearings to go from 1.5'' id to w202 outer -whatever that is I cant remember. still, the guy can take any old 9'' case, cut it to size and hammer in the bearing housings - after he has tickled off the inner tube weld with a burr though.... what so I then have to add all the brake line hardware in too? -well yes, actually fit the 3/16 tube nuts into the rear wheel cylinders and the brake master cylinder. wjhat about the front? - well supply the front flexi ;lines and add weld on mounting tabs and retaining clips, with the fitting in.
Argo currently makes reproduction AMC steering knuckles with the AMC style bolt on spindles machined for M2 rotor for the circle track guys, IRRC it’s the same as the ranger. They will sell you just the pin, as many as you want. If you ask nicely they can machine that pin to what ever bearing configuration you’d like. Super nice folks at Argo
If you must have disc brakes; Take a look at with ECI or Speedway's F-150 rotor/big GM caliper kit. Capable brakes that don't push your wheels outboard and use readily available parts.
the 98 up ranger spindle is different than the upto 98 that spindle looks like it presses in that aftermarket spindle ho-hum, simply haas 5 axis machine a round billet early ford king pin flange that will take the ranger caliper and back-plate, bottom mounted flat steering arm. bolting upward - with double eyes on both sides
that's them, they take a 5214r rotor all stock 75 monte carlo bearings and seal the mopar verion has a fatter inner girth for a bigger i.d. bearing takes the 7032r rotor and all its stock bearings and seals,
@nobby reading your thread above in which you recommend Dorman 929-656 backing plates used with 10” drums.....in looking up that Dorman number, it indicates that is for a 9” diameter brake. I really need some 10” Ranger rear backing plates. Seem difficult to come by as new parts. Is that Dorman number you posted possibly in error? Ray
hello yes apologies, they are 9'' by 1 3/4'' shoe with a 3/4'' 19mm wheel cylinder I happen to have a new pair of the 10x 2.5'' plates that fit a small bearing 9'' axle case!!! ranger part numbers I think. - the offset on the rock auto pic looks like the real deep ones for a 2.5'' wide shoe, that's what threw me, as I have a lovely collection of all the available sizes.....…….. bought in error so I know what they look like. notes... I hope they are not 4 stud 9'' back -plates that don't fit a small bearing 9'' w202 2.88'' / 72mm bearing...…. - the bolt spacing, 65 mustang 4 stud - mustang 2!!! ford ranger, damn, anyway the s10 chevy rear drum is 9.5'' 2'' shoe and 3/4'' 19mm cylinder the ranger brake master is 1.062 the s10 brake master with non opaque res, from 98 this one https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=906129&cc=1303850 is a 1'' bore careful though as its different from the rest on the rock auto listings the s10 metric front caliper has a 2.5'' 63mm piston lord knows what the ranger twin pistons add up to... so IF you have a rear drum from a say 68 mustang 10 by 2 with a 7/8 22mm wheel cylinder, the wheel cylinder is too big, and there is a tad too much shoe, damn I've got 2.5'' wide shoes 10'' and 7/8ths cylinders, too much brake can you buy the shoe seperators, little springs, h-shaped little doo dad that sits on the end, and the parking brake arms for a 9'' ford brake sset up, or are you back scouring the world for the little bits and bobs so is this 1998 s10 chevy brake master with its 1'' bore disc/drum or disc/disc https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=906129&cc=1303850&jsn=1130 so in laymans terms, if you are using the chevy s10 front 2.5'' single piston metric caliper you want to use the chevy s10 disc drum 1'' brake master cylinder -with the plastic bottle so you can pressure bleed it and it won't squirt you , and - or you wont get cigarette ash in the pot, you can have a low level indicator, plus you can see the level for BIVA., plus the lid will come up through the florr, plus it will still fit the vette c3 style 7'' dual can booster.. plus it will have not have gone metric on the fittings by then, and will still have the double flare, so you can fit the ready made tails to the combination valve. you want to use the 54.5'' wide rear axle from a 2wd chevy s10 with its 9.5'' - by 2'' wide drum with 3/4'' wheel cylinders ffs so buy a s10 2wd rear axle buy a new brake master buy 5214r rotors and fit them to your chassis engineering spindles fit your dual drilled weels knock out the 7/16 studs and fit 1/2'' you will be even narrower than the 56.5 in the back though, will the rear axle be too narrow for a 35-40 rails yo will come in 10mm per side on the front - with a 46'' wide axle, will that be too narrow.
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