Technical Help with tuning carb

It idles!!! It's finally ready, I'm going to get the plates tomorrow!
So here's the answer (ish):
The gromet around the pcv valve in the valve cover had become hardened and was allowing atmospheric air into the valve, so the valve itself was acting like a vacuum leak.
Additionally, the base gasket was covering a port that sprayed into the groove on the intake manifold, preventing it from spraying whatever it is that it sprays.
A little snip snip to a new gasket, a plug on the the port where the pcv hose should go into the manifold, and dump the pcv overboard (temporary fix) and it runs. Idles like a smashed model t, but drives like a ****d ape.
So we'll see how it drives on the road. Just to be clear it's still way out of tune and we don't know if the carb/diz are compatible, but I'm stoked

 

It idles poorly because there is too much advance at idle. That is the only way that it will drive in this condition.

What's this "we"? They are not compatible. I already told you this, and numerous ways you can fix it.

 

The carb will run just fine, he needs to change the distributor.






Bones

 

Indeed. All Load-O-Matic distributors belong in the dumpster.

 

[QUOTE="gimpyshotrods, post: 13350780, member: 82854

What's this "we"? They are not compatible. I already told you this, and numerous ways you can fix it.[/QUOTE]

Ya you did tell me and everything you've said makes sense and I will probably just swap out the diz like you said. My only thought is that the previous owner drove it like this for a long time with no problem so I just want to see what happens. I am planning on taking measurements in the dog house to see what will actually fit.

 

"Drove it for a long time with no problem".

Well ... OK, but you'd be surprised how ****py an engine might run and people will still flog it down the road for as long as it will start. Find a copy of the shop manual. Trust me, it will have just about everything you need to get it running well.

Before deploying the parts cannon, perform a cylinder compression test, do everything exactly how the manuals tell you to. Every Tune-Up chapter in every manual ever printed for 100 years or so starts with this test, usually on pg.1 para 1 front and center, and there's a good reason for that. It will usually go on to say something like "If sufficient compression on all cylinders is not achieved a tune-up will be of no real benefit, performance and economy will be poor, and an overhaul is indicated" etc. If compression is good, continue on through the steps listed, most of it is just measurement, and returning voltages, resistances, temperatures, pressures, etc where they are supposed to be.

 

This ^^^^^^ is where internet help goes sideways , folks ask for advice having Not done the basics , then those trying to help ( who automatically would have done the basics before asking) try to give advice based on flawed/incomplete info . It's equally frustrating for both parties. The other thing that's as bad is advice given based on heresay,. Starting out with " I'm not a mechanic but here's what I've done " would help as well as " I've heard ........, is this true ?"

 

I had an uncle who , in all the years I knew him, never drove a car that fired on all cylinders , to him there was " no problem" ......

 

Compression tester showed up in the mail today

 

Greetings all!..

...greetings all!...my thoughts on the 240 or 250 were for an engine swap, not a distributor swap....

 

A 250 is taller, and longer (due to a much larger water pump).

Because of both, it might not fit the doghouse without modifications, and/or moving the radiator.

 

It will fit I have one in a Econline pick up, I did not do the swap another guy did it for my Dad. He said he had todo lot of stuff to get in in there. I don’t think a 240/300 would go. A 200 is a bolt in, I have done that.






Bones