So I fired my engine up this week. It’s the first time in the frame , with pipes and with the stromberg e fire ignition. My wife took a cool video on her phone but I can’t post it. I took this screen shot of the moment I hit the starter cable on the jumper cables.
You have to post the video on youtube and then you post the link on here! Hoping to see that posted, soon
This is when the family heard me and came out to see what I was up to. Also when my fuel can was running out.
Even the dog came out to watch! Bravo! Sounds awesome, but you put the steering wheel on the wrong side [emoji12] Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
They have to put the steering wheel on the wrong side of the car.....they drive on the wrong side of the road!
I probably could of heard you start her up from my place [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Last weekend I painted the throttle body’s, generator and fan. Yesterday I had an afternoon to myself so I went through the carbs and assembled it all. Now I need to sort a linkage and a fuel line from the pump to the carbs.
I made a 2 carb linkage. The clamp on arms are from micro switches we use at work. They fit perfectly and seem to work well. I’m happy with the result.
@Wardog it looks and sounds fantastic...as a Hotrod should...and nice balance of shiny here and there just sets the Tone and the Flavour...
There's nothing that says hot rod more than a Stromberg...….except two of them......IN CHROME! Dang, man... Love that feeling of first fire-up. Grandpa used to say, "We put flexible exhaust pipe on them so you could run it down and up, right into this ear and one for the other ear...." Haha, nothing sounds like a flatty...thanks for taking the time to share with us. It's easy to get caught up in the moment and not think about pics or video... EDIT: Honestly, you're rolling chassis is the exact setup/mixture of black and chrome I'm going for this time......intake and carbs too!
@Flathead Youngin' thank you. I’m usually very bad for not taking photos or taking them and not posting them. I have to make myself do it sometimes so I know I have my own archive to look back on. I also hope that this thread might help someone else along with reference or motivation.
Tonight I got my manifold and head nut covers on after setting up a fuel line and moving my carb linkage to clear it.
Share your process, on, for example, the frame. Do you blast, epoxy prime, build layers and block then paint?
@Flathead Youngin' the rear crossmember I stripped with a wire wheel, the centre crossmember I had sand blasted, the front crossmember and rails I sanded externally with a 5” sanding disk on my angle grinder. All the internal was sanded by hand with 180 grit paper. I gave it a couple of sprays with thinners and then hit the bare metal with epoxy enamel. I figured a car built in the 40’s wouldn’t of been filled and blocked. I’m not about fake patina but I also recognise what I’m trying to replicate. Feel free to ask any questions of how I do things, sometimes I probably don’t explain things as clearly as I think I do.
Yeah, I think you're aiming right. I thought your frame rails looked so nice- and maybe they're new- but that's what made me wonder..... On my AV8 I pretty much cup brushed everything or wire wheel on a bench grinder. I also rattle canned everything. It did pretty good but I'm really like working with the metal after it has been blasted. I want it to look good but not so nice that I can't beat on it and be afraid to drive it. Just like on Strombergs, I like the bowl plugs to have some battle scars from a screw driver slip.....I think it's part of it's heritage. Keep the posts coming and roll that video camera, too!
I know I’ve posted way too many photos of my manifold but I’m a bit exited about it. And, this just happened! https://youtu.be/EEpa6TJxXC0
ahhhhhhhh…..I'll sleep better tonight! Nope, on my first build I wanted a PM7 and never used one. Thanks to you, now I need to spend more money and find a PM7 AND buy EVERYTHING I need to polish it!.....and the carbs....and the linkages.....you haven't helped a bit!
What was your reasoning for removing the choke plates? I've read thoughts from Stromberg experts that say the air flows better through the carb with the plates in there. Even if they are never used as intended for chokes.
I’ve read the same things. Although the carburettors are new I bought them second hand from a friend and they had no choke plates or shafts in them. I put 1/4” bolts through the bosses with fibre washers on the outsides so when I have air cleaners on I don’t have an unfiltered path below. If I have trouble I might put choke shafts and plates in but I’ll wait and see how they run first.
Anyone who can help please do. The barrel in this ignition lock seems to be in great condition..... but I don’t have the key. I have some new Hurd key blanks but a locksmith I had look at it wants the barrel out to cut the keys for it. I hoped he could pick it but he didn’t even think he could. The ignition switch is in great condition as well but is locked by the barrel. I’d like to be able to use all of this the way it was intended. Has anyone got a tip for me?
If i remember correctly Bruce Lancaster once wrote that the key number was inside on the barrel. I believe that little pinhole is the secret.
Thanks @34 GAZ ill check it out. I assumed that hole would be to remove the barrel if I ever got it to turn.
I think you should try another locksmith. I am under the impression its a one sided key. My Buddys Dad was a Locksmith and used to pick locks with them on occasion. I can't imagine it being to difficult as it's quite primitive...I'd do it for free but it's a 20+hr plane ride... I take it you have sprayed lubricant in there to free all the pins and springs and if the lock is free in the hole as in can rotate you should be good Once the lock is out you can hand file the key to level the pins and Bobs your Uncle......Maybe...
@Wardog... Not sure what year your column is but heres a couple of threads that may help... sorry if this is incorrect to your application... https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15585&highlight=Ford+ignition+lock ...a post in Fordbarn by the late Dick Spadaro...If you Login using your Hamb Login the pics show up...there is a 1/4 in splined pin at least there is in this column... http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/1939ford-project-restoration-10.htm ...another tutorial...there is a 1/4 in splined pin at least there is in this column...this fella drilled it right out whereas Spadaro's method shown the pin is drilled tapped bolted and pried out...which is preferable.
There's lots of cheap lock pick sets on ebay you could also try if you have no competent Locksmith handy.
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