I know this is not an ORIGINAL PART SO DON’T CRUCIFY ME - So I’ve just installed the disc conversion on my 59 Chevy truck. Everything went ok, I opted to go with the aluminum hubs and fitment wasn’t an issue. The one question/issue that I do have is the brake caliper/pad portion. So the outer brake pad seems kinda loose(1/8”-3/16”) of slop, considering there is no retaining clip and the bolts just go through the holes on the sides of the pad. The pads also slightly rub when fully expanded. Just wondering if anyone has any insight or any similar issues, is this normal?. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Have you pumped the brakes yet ie applied any brake pressure it should all even out when you hit the brakes. I dont really know about a kit I made mine with 51 chevy car hubs s-10 4x4 rotors and g-body calipers with speedway brackets I remade
Also update your profile so we know where are from... And welcome to the forums. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-h-a-m-b-rules-guidelines.44274/
Did you crimp the ears on the pads? sorry, this is the pic that I found when googling, hopefully it explains it. if not, I can probably find a shop manual to scan. Use a very large pair of channellock pliers, to crimp the ears tight. While it's all ***embled. The rubbing is normal, part of the design. Later years had "no drag" calipers, but they're not necessary.
Awesome thanks for the info! Didn’t know the ears required crimping. And of course the half *** directions said nothing about it. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
How about a pic of your set up or who you got it from? You don't want to be pushing the rotor over to stop the thing
I had a few more questions for the guys that might have done the deluxe disc conversion (47-59 Chevy truck). 1. So the inner race that slides on the spindle before the aluminum hub and rotor, that isn’t suppose to go up over the lip on the spindle is it? Also the way I have it on there now, the race spins with the rotor and hub, is that normal? 2. When using the aluminum hubs, can you use the old inner dust cap to keep crud from getting on the new race? Considering the new ***embly just has the one on back of the hub that keeps stuff out of the bearing, but that leaves the belled out portion of the race exposed. So nothing is preventing dust from getting in between the race and the spindle. Any other advice or tips would be appreciated. I’ve done a lot of work on new rigs but this is my first cl***ic and I’m trying my best to make it safe to drive and make it mine. Just got done installing the posi drop springs on the front that job went super smooth, really like the new raked stance. I just really need to figure out these damn brakes so I can get back on the road! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I got my set up from CPP. The hubs, disc brakes, midnight edition power booster, pretty much everything. Figured that would be best so I didn’t have any issues with certain parts no jiving with each other. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Here’s the config I currently have it in, Old dust cap, new inner race (adaptor), hub with inner rollerbearings, and the rest is standard (outer bearing, washer etc. Anyone else run this set up? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Nice truck Jay59chevy, Mine are only installed on a spare axle but they fit kind of tight as they sit. My discs are 1.290 inch thick , the meat on the pad is about .330 inch thick on either side. For dust shields I used the smaller dust shields around the bearings as you did. To get the larger one in we’d need to trim the outside of the original that was mounted behind the hub to fit inside the disc. Also you need to trim it to fit because there is less room between it and the smaller shield now that you have discs. This means you would need to pop out your lug bolts from your hubs to install this “fix”. As far as backing plates go nothing really fits our application. I have tried originals and later ones but there is interference. The only way I figured is to get a round metal blank, trace the caliper hanger, cut it, form it and weld it to the bracket. There is a discussion on ventilation airflow and how much discs need as opposed to drums. My plan was to run it as is and see how it goes. As you can see from my thread mine is still up in the air. I’ll post and update in a few months when it has been back on the road a while.
I used a tech article from hotrod: https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.ho...5-1959-chevy-truck-cpp-six-lug-brake-kit/amp/ also: https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.ho...rake-kit-1947-1955-chevrolet-3100-trucks/amp/ The rear is a little different for 55-59 but for the most part the main idea is all there. I also used YouTube there is one from Hagerty and another from brothers trucks. So far my build has gone smooth but it has taken almost a year of research testing and trying. I notice in another thread you asked about spindles, speedway sells car spindles but you need to get a machinist to bend them for the correct angle. Mine weren’t perfect but for the most part they weren’t too bad. I cleaned them with some emery before getting them powder coated. I used lockite 660 to install the bearing on the spindle. I also did the same on my king pin bearings because the spindle bores were a touch loose. I used thumb pressure to get mine into clean metal and I am not much of a gorilla. This stuff is good to take up 20 thousandths IIRC. Just be clear my spindles weren’t perfect and the bores weren’t either BUT they weren’t terrible either. I used this stuff for grease
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