So I bought another mirror for my roadster. Of course its for the pass. side, thought if I got a top I'd need it. It arrived in record time from brown. Looks nice, took it to the car. Oops??? Need a hole in the ws post. I went to drill it and thought I'd take it off the car to do a neater job. I did. Surprise! 32 windshield posts are hollow and made/formed out of 20 or 18 gauge stock. So I drilled the hole anyway. Just a little undersize, right? Then I realized the metal isn't thick enough to hold threads. OK, I'll just use a nut-sert, right? The mirror shank is threaded 3/8 fine. All nut-serts I can find are 3/8 coarse. So...so...I called Speedway tech line. They don't know what to do. Nobody has or will sell me a 3/8fine nut-sert. I don't know what to do...do you?
You ruined a 1932 Ford standard roadster upper stanchion. There are deluxe 1932 Ford stanchions around. A few years ago I sold a pair of 1932 Ford standard upper stanchions to Bruce Lancaster. He was happy to get them, as he sais that they are not easy to find. If anyone would know this, it would have been Bruce. Try McMaster-Carr for the fine thread nut-sert.
Thanx. I ordered the nut-sert. Fasenal is just down the street but they don't carry them and won't order them. Funny.
I like to mix up a little dab of JB Weld and apply it to the outside of nut zert before installing. Especially in thin decorative metals. Some guy 30 years from now when filthy apes rule the world will thank you.
i really dislike fastenal. I use them when it’s convenient, It would be much easier to like them if their name was fastensome. More truthful a little bit maybe.
Hopefully after all this you can angle the mirror head enough to be able to see out of it, it seems that passenger side is always tricky to get the angle you need.
I have had a similar problem... So I bought a course thread "T nut", bent the 3 prongs flat, drilled a hole large enough for it to slide in, welded it in, ground off any extra, and tapped it with a fine thread tap, IMO... use a roll tap as it moves the threads to where you need them... a cut tap will just remove what is in the "way" and leave less contact bolt to nut... but, a roll tap is easier to break... be careful.
I've done the same as well as getting one of those cheap stick-on convex mirrors that cover the whole glass
I've found that if I order on line from Fastenal I am a happier customer, I think their staff likes customers that buy more $10 or $20 worth of product"
In the past I had to buy a box of a certain size fastener at Fasenal but that seemed to change when they bought the somewhat regional Fasteners company out. The store I go to is pretty good to me and will get stuff from another store that has them in stock on small orders that they don't have.
If you have room for a nutsert, why not cut a rectangular piece of 1/4" flat bar ,say 1'' x whatever the groove thickness is and drill and tap that? Just a thought.
Our local Fasenal does something I've never seen before, they only take cards...no cash. Weird. I have the -sert coming in the mail. Thanks for all your help and comments. Didn't know about roll taps but I do now. My dad worked on the sr71 prototype- the A11. He knew so much stuff that I never learned. Wish he was still here to ask. Merry Christmas, Jer
Seems it depends on which Fastenal store you use... I just got a '34-'36 International grill shell shipped from WI. to ME. cost me much less than $50.00... be very nice to them, might help with $.
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