Technical ***January 2020 Banger Thread. Happy New Year!***

Starting off the new year getting stuff done.Pulling the engine for a rebuild.

 

ignorance? bah...Look at the tops of the teeth to get an idea of tooth wear,the face of the tooth for chuks and 'fretting' lines across the face.this picture has good examples of what to look for.Drain and flush the case before inspecting,gear oil gives a false 'reading'

 

Thank you sir. I find it only helps to ask around here.

And thank you. That’s a scary picture. What’s best to flush with that won’t leave residue when the fresh oil goes in?

 

kerosene works well

 

^^You got me goin now...thanks.^^
Art

 

The transmission is one are where Ford precision tolerances didn't insure complete interchangeability,assemblers at the Rouge had a number of sliding and cluster gears at his station to 'fit' the best combination.Your best bet if you need new gears is to find a good used trans and put new bearings in it.

 

Wow. Sounds like Eli Whitney’s interchangeable parts fit better. Got the trans flushed and draining, but got too damn cold in the barn to get the rear end jacked-up and spinning for a close inspection.

Could use a little more Earth-warming...open exhausts, everyone! Fingers crossed.
Thanks for the advice.

 

Happy New Year all Banger Boys.
My New Year's Resolution is to get another banger on the road.
I have to pull the V860 out of this one first, but that want take long.
Have a Brierley Headed banger and 5 Speed going together for it.
Will update as I can.

 

Working on my friends engine swap. Got both motors out and one back in so far. A few things to button up in the sedan then on to the new motor to put in the roadster.


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

^^ Very inspiring..go man! ^^

 

Remote Oil Filter on Banger

I am adding a remote oil filter to my Model A block, as the Scalded Dog "Y" headers do not allow for the handy Mikes Affordable valve cover set up.

I have filled the wide grooves (see photo) at the top of the oil pump to force oil out of the block at the factory threaded hole, through a filter, and then will return the oil back into the valve chamber through a fitting in the front of the valve cover. This should give a full/nearly full flow filtering system.

1) How will the distributor drive gear and center cam journal get oiled as the cavity above the oil pump is now sealed/restricted?

Is there enough "leakage" past the top of the oil pump to provide sufficient oiling?

Will I want to carve a tiny groove vertically in the plugged portion of the oil pump to let a "little" oil past?

Or is the distributor drive gear and center cam journal oiled from another source?

2) While the engine is torn down, this is also a good time to add pressurized oil to the center main cap that is fitted with AER inserted bearings in a similar fashion as in the next photo.

Would any oil bleeding off to the center main affect the effectiveness of of the oil filtering?

Thanks in advance for any experienced opinions.
Peace, Phred

 

Pattern making today. Rear drop. Much math. Many redo’s. All for 6”.







Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Happy New Year folks! Any tips or tricks on rebuilding Model B fuel pumps? I have a B engine out of an old farm truck. I've been running it on a stand using a small gravity feed fuel tank. Ready to get the fuel pump to join the party.

 

I've just ordered a rebuild kit of the interwebs to do just that myself. I have a couple of working pumps but figured I'd get a new diaphragm as I've had one go leaky in the past.

 

Just went through this, I bought mine loose, 12 studs at 3.5" (ARP# AP3.500-1LB) and two at 6" (ARP# AP6.000-1LB) and two packs of nuts (ARP# 200-8635)

Hope this helps

 

Got the banger pulled out of the coupe this weekend.Now I need to decide to rebuild myself or send it somewhere.The line boring and cylinder boring are about the only things I cant do myself.I looks like by the time you buy all of the parts its about the same to have it done by a good shop.

 

Calling all Winfield SR Carb experts!

My SR B carb stopped working. The stock tank is flowing fuel to the carb. The float will be full, but the carb is not delivering gas to the manifold. It ran great until it stopped, so it’s not fuel delivery to the carb. It ran great with the gravity feed, so I don’t think the fuel needs to be pressure fed.

I’ve taken it apart several times trying to find any issues and today I completely disassembled the carb and soaked it in the ultrasonic tank for a couple of hours. I've poked thin wire through all the accessible ports and blew through everything. The only things that I couldn't get apart are the high speed nozzle and the accelerator pump check valve. The high speed nozzle flows carb spray, so it should be ok. The pump check valve shouldn't cause it not to start. The copper coating turned out to be paint, so I'm glad that's gone.

Does anybody have any SR specific diagrams or photos of the accelerator pump check valve disassembled?

I placed a couple of 1/8" drill bits in two of the holes for the pump check valve and promptly bent the drill bits while cranking with a large crescent wrench. I’m gonna keep trying. I would think that it should start with the fuel bowl filled. I’m going to check the screen in the tank. The screen in the carb had nothing clogging it.

I’m missing something. I read that the idle ports gets fuel from the intermediate chamber, but I can’t find anything clogged. I’m almost stumped. I might try rotating the pump diaphragm to separate that system.

Please offer any suggestions.

Sorry for the multiple posts.

 

Will it run with your hand over the carb inlet choking it? Usually something pretty simple that makes me feel like a dumb ass when I find it. Like water in the tank instead of gas or a really weak spark.

 

It'll temporarily fire up with a spray of Quick Start.

The choke works fine, but I tried choking with my hand, nothing. I drained the sediment bowl, but it looked pretty clean.

I'm gonna drain the tank, rebuild the shutoff valve, change the shutoff screen, install a glass sediment bowl, finish cleaning and reassembling the carb (again), get a dead chicken and swing it above my head several times and then maybe it'll fire up.

 

For Phred: I have put together similar oil filtering systems for a pressurized Model A and this past summer for a Model B engine. In both cases I filed a "V" in the top boss of the pump where it was filled in order to oil the cam bearing and distributor drive. I attempted to create a cross section of about 0.060" which is roughly equivalent to a sixteenth of an inch. Have quite a few miles on the A with no problems to date. The "V" would go on the side of the boss opposite the opening for oil discharge in the block. One thing I discovered with the Model B engine seemed to be a consequence of filling the entire slotted area of the boss as it appears you have done. I had issues with lower than expected oil pressure and less volume of oil flow than expected. What I discovered is that the filled slot effectively blocked off about half of the discharge port in the side of the block as shown in the photo below. The second photo shows the opening scribed on the filled boss, and the third photo shows how I opened up the discharge by filing away the portion of the boss that was obstructing the discharge port. Hope this helps you avoid any similar problems with your build.

 

To oil the cam and dizzy gear, you need to mill a small groove into the lower housing it is currently sealed. Only need something like 1/8” wide by 1/16” deep.
The oil passage in the valve chamber needs to be plugged.
This will force all oil out the side port in the block, through the filter, and then return to the front of the valve chamber.
There are also modifications that can be done to the oil pump to increase oil flow.
Contact me offline if you have any questions.
Ken

 

Your current lubrication system operates on flow,on cold startup it can take up to 30 seconds to completely fill the valve gallery and provide adequate oil to your main bearings. Basic hydraulics says if you increase pressure you decrease flow. An oil filter is a nice upgrade,but isn't necessary,as they say,oil is cheap,change it.Starving a cam bore isn't,neither is accelerated main bearing wear from extended fill times..not trying to be a dick,just offering the flip side...leave it stock unless you intend to fully pressurize the system.

 

Recently picked up this 1928 AR engine. What's the market on one of these thats been refreshed? Is it worth rebuilding and flipping to make some cash?
View attachment 4536667

 

Retson, is that a flipped stock intake modified for a different carb on there?

 

I'd be interested in that header if your not

 

Yessir. It's a stock manifold that someone brazed on a flange for a stromberg.
Thinking about ditching it and running my stock stuff

 

If you want, I can send pictures when it's light out!

 

Sounds good retson,thanks!

 

Photos sent!

 

What header and carb do you have. Lookin at running a setup like this.
Thanks Matt