Hot Rods # 10 Track Roadster Build- Marty Strode

As the title states, this will be the 10th Track Roadster I have built, on this platform. It all started for me, building #7, back in the mid 90's, hoping to find a market and getting a few cars together for some dirt track action. Of the 9 that I built, along with a Tub of the same design, only one was not a complete construction, on my part. The blue # 8 was a combined effort by my racing partner Ernie Martin, and myself here in my shop. 6 of the 9 cars saw track time over 8 years, as well as many miles of street use, the black one with Red Ram power, has over 25,000 miles on the clock. The latest one will be for my good friend Bill Towers from Delaware, a long time racer and true Hot Rodder ! That's it for the intro, construction photos to follow.

 

Looking forward to the photos and story. This will be good! thanks in advance.

 

It all starts with my last pair of laser cut frame rails. When I weld the tapers, I clamp them down to a 6"X 6" square tube, putting a back bow in the front section. The reason is, welding that 3' front section will cause quite an arch to the rail, I only want a slight arch when fully welded. The 7th picture shows all of the templates I used to replicate all of the previous cars. As we progress, it will show all of the fixtures I developed for setup and welding of the rest of the build. More pics to follow shortly.

 

Hot damn! I'm in for the ride. Thanks for sharing Marty!

 

Moving along, this covers the assembly of the perimeter frame using a stock Model A rear crossmember and the installation of the front radius rod mounts. The last shot is the fixture for the front engine mounts, which will be next.

 

Nice. Where are you playing ? Sunset ?

 

Great work! The pics help any builder Marty.

 

Engine mounts for 8 BA Flathead are fabricated from 10 ga P&O steel. I machined up a pair of aluminum biscuits for setup purposes, as they hold engines solid, and it will utilize Bob Drake mount cushions. That's it for today, as I need to dig out a bell housing and trans to install tomorrow.

 

Nah, they discontinued Vintage Racing nearly 15 years ago, don't race anymore !

 

Nice work Marty. I miss my TRP #43 every day but I don't miss the lack of leg room. Other wise they are lovely hot rods.

 

I'm in. LOVE these cars. Gary

 

Subbed. But I get the feeling I'm going to want to scrap the chassis on my own build and start again after seeing this.

 

Marty,
I'm trying to understand the laser cut frame rail bit. Is the starting point a piece of a rectangular tube? The laser part is the vee cut? Held apart by the wood blocks because?
The drawing looks like the rails might taper on both ends, more at the front and just a bit at the rear. Or, is that just an optical illusion?

If a guy was just going to build a one off, would it be more cost effective just to cut the wedge out with a jig saw?
Damn, you weld good!

Be ready for more questions from here. I want a track roadster REAL bad!!!!! And I got a torch and a hammer!

 

Still wish someone would make a 23 style fiberglass roadster body that is not only a few inches longer, but also a couple inches taller... to keep the body in proportion and allow more people to fit in them comfortably.
Been waiting for this build thread, and love the Rodder’s Journal feature article on these HOT RODS, thanks!

 

As usual beautiful work Marty! Whats the story with the mid engine Corvair?

 

Thanks for the rapid replies ! Bruce, if you want one, build it no matter what you have for equipment. As far as the laser cut rails, I had 6 sets done a the same time, and it really saved me a lot of time. If you have a saws all or jig saw, clamp a piece of 1/4" flat bar to the tube to act as a fence, and get after it ! The one thing about a Track Roadster that is appealing, is they are labor intensive, but materials are relatively cheap,and front and rear axles can be hand me down old Ford parts. No better thrill for the dollar.

 

Been there, done that. Sawsall, tape, cardboard, steel tube for strength and lots of fiberglass. Center steering helps. Oh, and a overstuffed chair to kick back in while you're pondering the proportions for the right 'look'. Even made mine a bit wider too. Being 6'3"/ 325lbs sometimes has it's limitations.

 

Beautiful cars! That shot of three side by side is classic.

BTW, what's the status of the 40 shop truck?

 

Hi lumpy, The car belongs to my old pal Lonnie Gilbertson (famous car builder) , I thought I would never say the words "wicked and Corvair " in the same sentence, but it certainly qualifies. It's here for a roll bar and an engine cover. It's OT and I won't post pics here, but you can check it out on his site.
http://www.lonniesplace.com/projects

 

Subscribed. A real pleasure to peek in on the pros, thanks for taking the time Marty!

 

Marty, I built 10 Dump truck beds ?? We must be readin each other's mail ??!!!!!

 

The 40 is out getting the final prep for paint, Washington Blue.

 

Bruce, the reason for the wood blocks, is to hold it apart while grinding a weld prep on the joint, for proper penetration. The split bones up front, requires the frame to have torsional rigidity.

 

As always beautiful work Marty
Sam

 

Sam, we need to have lunch sometime and look over your Olds !

 

Okay lol. Guess I am still behind the times

 

I bought a very nice stamped steel, 49-51 passenger car bellhousing from my pal Ernie. The key is to have all the correct clutch fork assembly and starter plate for this unit, and he had it all. I had to borrow a transmission for set up, as the only 3 speeds that I have, are the RAT heavy duty ones, that will not work with the T-150 Jeep top shifter. I remove the outside/top ears from the trans as pictured in the last pic, because the trans is exposed.

 

Trans mount crossmember bent, fit and tacked in place. Center gussets and diagonal tube "K" braces are next. Can't wait to remove the 1" square tube temporary brace.

 

King, P&O stands for "Pickled and Oiled". It's "Hot Rolled" steel, that has gone through a chemical process to remove the blue mill scale from the surface, then oiled to preserve the clean exterior. It makes it nice to mark on, bend, and especially clean for Tig welding. Did you notice how clean the frame rails were ? I had them sandblasted to achieve the same result.