This is a question for all the motorheads out there... I want to build up up a 327 motor which is going into my 50 Hudson for extra power. It will be mated to the stock 3 speed for the time being. I'm looking to take advantage of the inherent top end rev capabilities of the 327, but still have some decent torque. L've never done a 327 before, so I've been looking at the Fred Williams engine for this year's HAMB Drag raffle and it looks like a good model to follow, with that nice 270/270 hydraulic cam. But I need help with the rest of the combo: 1. Cylinder heads: Many models out there - main difference seems to be in chamber size and intake runner volume. What is best for a 327? We have 93 octane gas, so can support a 10:1 compression ratio. Any suggestions for a good inexensive hp+ heads? 2. Intake. I like the look of the high rise torker style, but my engine building buddies here favor the weiand dual plane for the chevy sb. So what's best? 3. Pistons, rods & rings? Thanks for any input here. Would appreciate it if you could be as specific as possible, including any brand makes or models you can recommend. I'm all the way in South Africa, so i have to do my homework WELL before doing any ordering from catalogues or online. rob@telkomsa.net rob@ochre.co.za
As heavy as the Hudson is ... why not just go ahead and build a 350. The extra stroke can be real nice when trying to move a heavier car ... Higher RPMS and the stock 3 speed may not be a good idea . just my nickel ...
Agreed! However, if you already have the 327, my suggestion would be to get a (new) set of 64cc chamber Vortec heads. They have a fantastic reputation for street use and on sbc 383 strokers can flow enough to generate over 450 hp on those while still being responsive on the street. Most of the old double-hump heads are worn out from too many valve jobs, milling, and amateur porting jobs. I'm partial to the Edelbrock RPM manifolds but I'm sure the Weiands will do just fine; a dual plane (not a single plane) is best for street use. As for carbs, I use both Holleys and Edelbrocks (both are great and both piss me off); 600-650 cfm should be about right. I prefer Holley's double pumpers (have never had the "bogging" attributed to them) but many folks like the vacuum secondaries. I like MSD ignitions but Performance Distributors (they use HEI style) and Mallory have both been used with success by friends. As for cams, I HIGHLY recommend calling some of the cam manufacturers tech lines and getting a recommendation SPECIFIC to your engine and car. I've found these guys to be quite knowledgeable and liked what they recommended. If you plan to re-use your old rods I highly recommend your machinist install ARP rod bolts on them as bolts are the main cause of rod failure. If the rods have LOTS of miles and/or hard use, I would suggest new rods, Lunati has a good set for around $250 and having old ones re-done could cost close to that. New flat top pistons and re-ground crank, new oil pump and you're ready to rock and roll. Good Luck with that Hudson!
Almost forgot..................do not forget to do a search on the HAMB as this has all been covered before..............you'll find some good stuff on the small block Chevies
Thanks - if I don't go with tihe vortex heads, any thoughts on the Summit heads vs Brodix and World Products Sportsman II?
I run DART Iron Eagles on mine, the Sportsman II would probably be the closest to the DARTs. Brodix is of course excellent; not too familiar with the Summit (brand) heads, their Trick Flows are supposed to be good, though. Scoggin-****ey has a good selection of heads and they know their small blocks since they are a GM Performance parts outlet (and prices are good).... try this link: http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/222/Cylinder-Heads.htm It covers info on all the popular Chevy heads. Good Luck!
You didn't mention if you'd ever built a Chev before BUT if you haven't, there's good info here on the HAMB if you do a search. Also, a great resource is Comp Cams' listing of magazine article on engine buildups...it covers all makes (especially Chevy) and all the performance magazines. Comp scanned them in so when you click the link, you get the article. I've found a lot of good info on this site: http://www.compcams.com/Community/Articles/ Good Luck
Thanks for these tips. I've spent the last half hour on the Scroggin D site, now off to the link above. I haven't built a chevy before, having been a pontiac man up to now. This is great help - much appreciated. Rob
my .02 for the heavier car I would prolly go with the comp 268 cam and a performer dual plane intake...the 270 is nice but does have a pretty choppy idle in the 327.......the 268 ,while still has a nice rumble to it, is a little better on the bottom end for the heavier car the 327 rods will be fine with the installation of new rod bolts and having them resized afterwards...be sure they are the "good" 327 rods and not the earlier 283 style....you can tell by looking at the shoulder area at the head of the rod bolt...it should have a bump on each side ..... if it doesnt , find some that does the speed pro flatop piston has worked well for me in these motors, with a 62-64 cc chamber and a standard head gasket you will be right in the 9-0 to 9-5 area on compression I am not a big fan of vortec heads...any thing with a smaller runner and the 64 cc size chamber will work nice...the summit heads are just copies of the camel hump head that were so popular with these motors ....and I have had good luck with them....you can also find decent camel hump heads redone for a good price if you keep your eyes open...I recently picked up a killer set for 400.00 AFR makes a real nice head, but they are in aluminum...DART and brodix are also good choices but plan on having them checked out real well and possibly some clean up machine work.. the factory forged cranks are excellent pieces keep your eyes on the HAMB as I will be ***embling the raffle engine real shortly and posting some of the progress. how are you setup down there for machinist's?/machine shop? if I can be of any help just drop me a note here, or at RACEFAB@AOL.COM Fred
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