Here’s a seat I did for a friends 32 5 window, all original frame and back spring, Schneider’s 2” lower bottom spring
That REALY looks good. If I can ask a favour would you mind posting the dimensions at he top and bottom of seat back as well as the front and rear of the seat bottom? I'll be cobbling together a seat from a mini van but would like to alter it to look like an original along with those side panels for my '32 5W. Thanks... Regarding the seat bottom could you reveal the cost approximately as that may be an idea as well.
Have a friend looking to redo a '34 coupe seat that is tore down to the springs. No material on it. Anyone have pictures or a explanation on how to keep the coil springs aligned or kept at the same height when applying the burlap?
I saw a friend of mine place the burlap on the springs and place a piece of plywood and pull it down with ratchet straps to even them out before tacking down the burlap. I also saw an article years ago where they used baling wire on each of the springs to even them out. I always thought of using zip ties to pull then down to equal height would work.
here's the 34 ford seat mentioned by the parts dog, thanks bob. springs in a burlap bag are called a "marshal unit" didnt know that? dont feel bad, know one else does either. a lengthy spell of googling taught me the name, and i then went to 2 fabric stores, and 3 auto upholstery shops to buy supply's and learn what i could about making the bags, and none of them knew what a marshal unit was. for some reason i was afraid of this process, and trying to think of another method to build the spring, but in reality the marshal unit is easy to make. the reason for the bag is the spring is compressed, or preloaded when its in the bag so the result is a soft yet firm seat. easy peasy, once you determine the height of the spring you want, just make a long sock with one end sewn shut. then each time you slide in another spring, you sew the bag shut along side the spring. it all felt too wimpy until everything was installed and hog ringed together, and then it firms up nice. in my case the perimeter wire had been hack repaired by welding another rod along side the broken piece, not good, and had another spot broken too, so i removed all the clips to the main springs, made a new perimeter wire (it comes in 10' lengths) , installed my marshal unit, then the new rim wire and clip it all back together. in the end, other than my old singer machine was unhappy about being pulled out of retirement, and refused to go more than about 3" between breaking the thread, it was not a big deal and i have a nice good as new original seat.
Looks like you could make a long horizontal bag, slip in a coil, sew, another coil, sew, etc. Or would that not work for some reason?
that is exactly how you do it. my description must have sucked. you just have to figure out the height for the bag to be, i used a duck bill vise grips to experiment, and the length of the bag just worked out by sewing along side each spring.
here is a couple of ideas, bent the tubing at different heights same as the height of the seat base.I used brake tubing welded to the frame to hold the springs.On base you will see a plate that is used for a cigarette lighter to use to plug in a cell phone
Here’s what I started with I didn’t bag the springs, but that is a nice way to go I replaced 6 broken springs with matching ones from a doner backrest. The little cross springs on this backrest were in good shape and held the springs pretty evenly
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