Projects Old school cool 248 Gmc

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I just have unpolished one in stock right now.

My polisher retired on me.

 

what do you get for a valve cover?

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Unpolished valve cover

$300

The valve cover and side cover unpolished

$525

Shipping $20

Parts made and machined in the USA

 

Not much progress this weekend. Shop is busy so they haven't had a chance to grind my crank. Drilled and tapped my block for full filter oiling. Found a 84 s-10 2.8 with a t-5 for $200. Pulled the tranny and iron piled the v6 after pulling the dist. Not sure if the t-5 is strong enough for a 200hp GMC or not but I will likely try it with the Jeep 10 spline input. Has to be better than the SM420 the truck has.
Pulled the 248 short block out of my quansit down on my farm. Wasn't stuck after 7 years with no head in a dirt floor shed, kind of amazing. Removed the Bellhousing, flywheel clutch and pressure plate and got it on the stand so I can tear it down for the pan, oil pump, pick up etc.

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I've got a modified 302 Jimmy pushing about 230 hp and 300 lb-ft thru a 11" Hayes street/strip clutch to a Camaro T5 with S10 tailshaft and rebuilt with world class parts. It resides in my '37 Chevy pickup. I've bangshifted it more than once and the transmission has never complained. The truck is down for rebuilding since it blew a head gasket at 80,000 miles. All the T5 needs is a new paint job.

 

I have been looking for a camaro T5 for parts. This one feels nice shifting but it is the weakest t5

 

Slipped down after work to the shop and pulled the oil pan and pump. Slipped the pan in the cooker and pump in the hot tank

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I have an S-10 T5 behind a healthy 270. It's been there for several years and gets used hard daily. No problems. It has the good stuff inside. Just one thing I wouldn't do again. I got a T5 without the Chevy bolt pattern and had to make an adapter. A couple of bolts interfered so I had to whittle on the case but the 3/8" adapter took care of the extra shaft length.

 

this is a gm pattern, looking at the 10 spline jeep input

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I have been going in at 4:30am to my buddy's shop to play before work. Cleaned the oil pump and Mallory dual point up. Decided to keep the Vac brake advance for now. Blasted my Nicson quick before it goes in the shot blaster.

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I forgot to say the weight and spring on the bottom are what advances the timing when the brake is pulled off by vacuum. The old instructions I found on here show that if you remove the brake to use a stiffer 24750A spring on that bottom weight that were used in the YC dist. The chances of finding that spring now are slim and none. My buddy has a dist machine so we can map out the timing for the mech and vac. The spring I have circled appears to add stiffness to the weight advance rate. The outside pin can be moved adding tension or relaxing the spring. Does anyone have more complete instructions that explain how to quicken slow the advance rate and limit total mechanical advance on these old Mallorys?

 

And I forgot to post a clean pan pic.

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Things were made so much nicer 70 years ago

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You do nice work ! I always welded a wing nut to the screw in the holddown bracket so I didn't have to struggle with a screwdriver.

 

Thanks! I will for sure do that.

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Ah, the "octane selector"

 

yes but the nut is also captured and the threads peened to prevent it from coming all the way off.

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Took the day off for a DDS appointment so I slipped down for a few min before heading to the appointment. Nicson intake shot blasted. The Mallory cap clips were Rusty and I don't know a way to black oxide them. I blasted them then used gun blueing. Not sure how it will hold up but they look good for now. Last pic is them coated in wd40 till tomorrow.

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What a cool build, I love these GMC motors. Good to see a Nebraska build going on. FPM folks are the real cool kids, making beautiful products for years. Best O Luck with this project.

 

Subscribed, taking notes, learning... I'm building a 235 Chevy for my 50 pickup. There's a GMC 270 in my buddy's storage building that has my name on it, but I don't have a place for it to live right now. Regardless, I'm very interested in seeing your project come along.

 

That cold blue will take a better set if the clips are heated with a torch or set on a stove burner before drowning in the solution ...

 

These turned very dark after 3 times through the bath. I was just dipping them quick on each side then let them set a min before washing off in water, then repeated twice more Still I will remember heating for next time. Think it will help keep them from rusting again for 60years? Going to stove black my Fenton's tomorrow, have any tips for that? Help is always appreciated.

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Last few pairs I did, several coats of Rustoleum BBQ paint followed by 1/2 hr in ma's oven at 200 degrees.

 

Didn't get much done today. Clips turned out nice on the flat top. Crank turns out to be a 302 crank. It is going to be ground Monday. Tried stove blacking my Fentons but found a crack. Tried veeing it a bit to braze it but it is WAY too thin. I will have the welder at work use some nickel rod and fix it. Wish I had Nicsons but my budget is tight and I have these. Found a NOS 292 balancer and have to turn the back groove off of it. Not sure how to get a small groove on my water pump or where to get a kit yet. Cleaned up my best timing cover and looked for bearings on the net. Looks like EBAY it is. Super Cool 35 Chevy was unloaded in their shop today. They are getting it running and stopping. They work on lots of cool projects here. Moved my parts to a 3 layer cart. Lots of extras I will eventually have to store in the barn.

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Also put my repaired super T-10 back in this but it is to new for ham posts

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Got a text that my crank is done. .010 on the mains and .020 on the rods. Not to bad for a crank that looked like it was on the Titanic.

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Chevs of the 40's should have the pulley you need. Or maybe NAPA https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/WP_58126
There are a couple of different Chevy pumps. The one on my 55 1st series has narrow pulley and fits a GMC.

 

The outlet is diffrent than the pump I have in the shop. Do you notice a problem with hoses on your application?

 

Mine is going into a T roadster, haven't built the radiator yet. You could just swap the pulley, 53-54 Chevy I think has the narrow one. Surely someone on the HAMB has a junk one they could off load to you?