Hot Rods recessing a license plate

Need a bit of help & suggestions to recess the rear license plate on my 34 roadster before I screw up the original tin.

 

Buy a kit?

All I can add is measure three times, cut once. You need to leave enough edge to fold in to make the sides of the box and somewhere for the bottom to attach to.

 

Don't do it, it's just a Street Rodder type fad!

 

Take a look at old '70s-'80s Ford vans if you can find one in the Pick-a-part place and cut out the license plate recess from the rear door. Probably just buy the door with the recess you need. Would save you a lot of fabricating to just be able to cut an opening, trim the recess to fit, and weld it in. Just make sure you have space behind the gas tank cover and tank. As I recall, the license plate light on the Ford van recess is recessed up into the top side and out of sight.

 

Bob, if you just have to do it buy a replacement fibergl*** gas tank cover that already has the tag recess built in, that way you can save the original piece if you decide to go stock later. HRP

 

Danny if I had your money I would. Need what pennies I have to do the dual carb setup. I made the dash panel & glove box door . That was when I had all the tools in my shop that was sold. Beings that this is an odd ball size I need to make it. I want more recess at the bottom than the top. Would like to keep the Hollywood plate holder & light.
Slopok yeah but it is my streetrod.

 

The thing I don't like about recessed plates is they don't fit the car. You have a round body with no sharp edges and you stick a plate recess with it's sharp edges and it looks out of place.

 

I agree. There ARE a fair number of vehicles out there with factory stamped, contoured recesses that can be found in a salvage yard. Start looking by driving through large parking lots at shopping centers.

Ray

 

At that angle it is guaranteed to collect water.

 

In the past I've used cake pans. A little t******* to fit, some careful welding. Some small holes drilled in lower corners for drainage. Easy peasy, lemon squeasy . Hope this helps, as it's the suggestion you asked for and not the opinion you didn't.

 

you can't put in a recessed license plate without screwing up the original tin.

 

I would make the box first without cutting the panel. ...including mounting the plate and license light. That way you have the recess designed as you like it and while it can be easily modified on a bench. Leave the sides a bit deeper than you plan to need so you can make all the adjustments to the placement and fit once you do cut the hole. Recessed plates have been around on hot rods almost forever, not a street rod trend.

 

I sort of don't like what you have now in your photo. So I understand you wanting a fix. But If it was me, I'd go the opposite of the recessed deal. I'd tilt the license plate more straight up with a bracket arrangement for a more 'traditional' look. Maybe fabricate a filler piece at the top and sides behind the plate frame, and give it a 1/4" gap to float without touching the body piece.
But if you are dead set on the recessed idea, there are plenty of prefabricated 'cans' available on the 'net. Just google search to get a bunch of hits. Pick one and super glue it in.
Here's one I saw that has a built-in tilt...........

 

I did a tag set up like your talking about in 1960,to the rear of my full custom Henry J,had full roll back pan.
I also had space behind it,so made the tag box so that tag was straight up at back of box an box folded back into what you may call a trunk=this then uncovered gas cap to fill tank. The tag box was covered by clear plastic at same shape as roll pan/back of car. I had a choke cable hooked up to box that pulled it open ,an closed it from next to floor at lower side of drivers seat. The tag hole was trimmed out with SS chrome that is used for door edge,{now you can get same thing in chrome plastic "C". I always liked it.

 

Bob I am a tight ******* as you well know (or should) and I am with Danny on this one, let be rephrase it for him if I can, "Buy a gl*** tank cover that already has the plate frenched, "if you can afford it" and save the original"

frenching the plate is not street rodder chit as has been suggested, it is more of an early '60s deal. If it were mine I would make the Frenching box out of cardboard prior to cutting anything, and make it deep. Then trim and contour it until it matches up to the tank cover when it is put on backward from the outside. trace around it and begin cutting. Sounds like a lot of work but it may save you some heart ache in the end.

That said Danny's idea works if you can swing it.

 

Amazon has one for $30 dollars....pretty hard to beat....I quit looking after that.

 

Mine collected water. Would love to undo it.

Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

@BURN OUT BOB How about recessing an ipad in the apron then you can just show a photo of the plate when its being driven, it would be illuminated at night, you could change numbers to mess with those red light cameras and you can change it when your at a car show to something cooler....and swear at the guy tailgating you. Shark tank idea!

 

1/8" drill bit and a De Walt would cure that.

 

I never was a fan. I think you will regret it, but as was stated start with different cover with recess and your set, if you change you mind all cool. And another vote for tilting top forward.

 

All it takes is guts. And it is not a new fad. It also does not look right on all cars. With that said, let the arguments start. LOL

 

They were recessing license plates long before street rods were ever thought of. This is George Barris' 1936 Ford Cabriolet custom from the 1940s.

 

That is what I have now & would like to get shed of. Look at recessed license plates, I don't see any sharp edges.

Thanks for the idea Billy but I ain't hi-tech. Barely know to run this confuser & I don't know all of it or what it can do. My brides & I get to check the Hamb & Ford Barn. Then she lets me know that my time is up.

 

****** thanks;
I have made the cardboard piece. This car is all period correct ,6V & mechanical brakes & original frame & running gear. I hate to say original as I bought it from a liar in Iowa. He said he restored the ch***is & running gear and all he did was paint over the grease & dirt. Brakes were shot & on & on. I'm not here to bad mouth him as I have already done that a long time ago. I built a mild street rod & would like to change a few things on it. Anyone that buys it after I'm done with it could easily change it back. [

 

I want metal if I can do it. Thanks you done good.

 

Dana Thanks ;
That was Kool I'm sure but I don't want anything that elaborate. When we moved south all my good shop stuff went by by so I'm now limited to tools & space.

 

I'm OK with that. Not a show car just a driver for an old man.

 

RJP I bought a cake pan just right. but boy is that some thin stuff ,just a hair above a beer can.

 

My 32 Tudor has one. It was like that when I bought the car. It’s too much work to fix it so I’m just gonna run it as is for now.

Just FYI...