Joe Bunetic www.ford6vcarburetion.com probably one of the most knowledgable people in the country on Ford tri power set ups. He will be able to recite the numbers to you.
As I remember the cfm on these carbs is around 330 to 350 on both Galaxie and T Bird carbs, Don't remember the center being bigger or smaller.
Thanks J-jock the list on the carbs that Ford used are 2436 and 2437, all my Holley books don’t list that number, for some reason. I have three outside carbs, 2437 I think, but they don’t have the original metering blocks. I bought them at a swap meet, I guess the guy just through some random parts on the bodies. Any will be Appreciated! Bones
Post No. 7 shows carbs for 352 through 406 applications as center carbs being 320 CFM and end carbs are 350 CFM.
O For Dors, that kinda where I have a delimitation! I’m thinking a lot larger carb in the center the regular carbs on the out side! But I have learned, years ago to not go against the OEM! They have a lot more info than the average bear! Just saying! Bones
Bones, if you are interested in my center carb PM me. It is a correct carb with the right arm on it, and since most running is on the center carb you may be able to run your end carbs. Hopefully you have to metering blocks the same for them. And speaking of blocks while looking through hundreds of numbers, I see a pattern. the 1725 block appears to be from a 59, 60 carb, and the 5746 block seams to me to be from a 68, 69 carb. Still can't find what they go to.
That’s my problem, tons of numbers and I have no idea, what they mean or which one o could use on my 2436/7 carbs! Thanks I will pm you. Bones
Can someone pull there front metering block and take closeup pictures of both sides? Then you could compare theirs to yours.
Are all differences external? I just figured since there are plugs in them there has to be some sort of metering in there. Guess I will take one of my blocks and remove those plugs and see what’s in there! Maybe nothin! If everything is external , should be easy to measure. Bones
I have been piecing together a 390 T-bird tripower setup since 1983 for my '63 T-bird, which I got a few years earlier. It started with finding the air cleaner lid, then I found the flat-style manifold with three Autolite 2100s and a home-made linkage setup but missing the fuel log, correct cross-over bellcrank, linkage and other parts. I was always looking for parts at swap meets, in magazines and through my network of T-bird friends around the world; I slowly collected these items one piece at a time on my college student and struggling newlywed's pay. After about 21 years of searching for just a set of Holley 2300 tripower carburetors I 'settled' on a set of C1AE-AU/AV Galaxie carbs found on 'a popular auction site' back in 2004. The numbers on those were: 3487-S/(no Ford #)(Center-Primary w/ choke) - metering block 4466 (this carb was a replacement and not the 2436/C1AE 9510-AV/Ford one - the air horn had been whacked off somewhat crudely at an angle in order to fit behind the front secondary carb). 2437/C1AE 9510-AU (Front Secondary) - metering block 3434 2437/C1AE 9510-AU (Rear Secondary) - metering block 3434 After I got them I shipped them to Joe Bunetic to replace the throttle shaft arms with T-bird-style ones and set them up with new jets in order to functionally act and cosmetically look like the C2SE-A/B/E versions that would have been used on my '63 T-bird tripower. Earlier this summer I had him go through and rebuild/restore them again since I was working in the St. Louis area and could hand-deliver them. He was kind enough to show my all the things that were incorrect or different from the C2SE-A/B/C carbs including the metering blocks, the fuel inlet fittings and a few other small items. I was happy as a clam to get them back looking like they just came from the factory, but OCD as I am, I still didn't have the 'right' carbs. Fast forward to the end of November-beginning of December: I get two calls from friends of mine within a week of each other in KC - one said he got ahold of a set of Ford tripower carbs and related parts from an estate and wanted to know if I wanted them; the other said he was selling his complete T-bird tripower intake setup and asked if I was interested in buying it, or at least come over and take a look at it. All I really wanted was a set of correct C2SE carbs: the first friend thought he had a set of Galaxie carbs, and the other said he wouldn't part the setup out (and I don't blame him). Long story short I picked up two sets of the C2SE carbs I had spent almost 37 years looking for. The Holley list #/Ford #s and metering block numbers from both sets were: 2497/C2SE 9510-A (Center-Primary w/ choke) - metering block # 3559 (I need to double check this) 2498/C2SE 9510-B (Front-Secondary w/ dash pot bracket) - metering block # 3563 2499/C2SE 9510-E (Rear-Secondary) - metering block # 3563 Problem, though, is I need replacement throttle bases for the secondary carbs as mounting ears broke off the secondary carbs on the p***enger rear ear of the front carb and the p***enger front ear on the rear carb (the one that the accelerator pump lever screws to). Holley has replacements but they have the PCV/vacuum fittings while mine don't. I'd rather find a period-set correct set of bases with the 1-1/2"-diameter bores for the 350 cfm secondaries, but if I can't, anyone have any experience in repairing the mounting ears?
I have an extra outside carb I might trade for some metering blocks. Might have two outside carbs. I was hot on this for a while,then slowed down, found some carbs! Bought some pieces. Then my friend bought a whole shell of parts at an auction and while digging through it we found most parts to the carbs for a Galaxie! Bones
I'm pretty sure the Mopar 440 center carbs are 350 cfm and the outers are 500 cfm's, with a total of 1350 cfm.
This is kind of awful and kind of absurd, of all the carbs to break the "ears" off, why does it have to be super rare ones? But I think those are aluminum, so possibly fixable.
**** happens!..... I picked up a #4223 Holley 850 cfm center squirter dirt cheap and it had one of the ears cracked.... Someone welded it up for me for free.... But this was years ago... I still have the carb....
You sure are going about this the hard way lol... Much easier to just get a complete original ***embly, clean it up and run it. I have one (of three) sitting downstairs, complete, carbs, linkage, air cleaner, fuel log. Boom
Yutan Flash, I have a extra set of C2SE carbs I picked up from a friend. I helped Bones with parts for his set up. If you are interested pm me.
Lol, MeanGene! I always do things the hard way, but it entertained me! Lol. I started with this idea years ago when I scored a real nice Galaxie manifold cheap! Then I started looking for the carbs and linkage, etc. It gave me a purpose to go to swap meets. Sometimes the fun is in the hunt, especially if you are in no hurry. I’ve got to meet and talked to several guys I wouldn’t have met, if it wasn’t for this 3x2 thing! I don’t force my hobby, I just guide it and let it happen. I now have extra carbs and parts, that I can trade. I also got a gift of an air cleaner from an old friend! Not the original, but it will go on because he gave it to me! Right now I have considerable less in mine than most folks are asking for their complete unit! So I have enough left to send the carbs to Drew for him to make like new! Plus I never had $1250/1800 at one time that I want to drop on a set! Just my way! Edit: Flatrod, was one of the guys I was talking about! Bones
Hey, Flatrod! Howdy! You sure did help me! And thanks! Yutan, get with this guy he will treat you right! Flatrod, did you ever find a fuel inlet? I’m still missing one! Bones
I only have the ones on the carbs I have. But these new C2SE carbs I got, all have inlet fittings. I don't need two sets of carbs, well three if you count them all. I have been on the look out for one for you, but have not found any extras yet.
I think they're fixable, too, as I'd hate to write them off or relegate them to the parts box. Breaking up the refinished carbs to trade bases for metering blocks doesn't make sense to me vs outright buying parts carbs. If I only knew someone around Omaha-Lincoln or a person who could pin/aluminum weld the ears - I'm not set up to do welding, which I ***ume would need to be either TIG or old-school gas/torch, and then dressing/finishing the welds. Barring that, finding a spare set of bases would be Plan B, considering there's a wide range of applications the 2300 was used on including American Motors/Jeep, International Harvester, and late '50s-'60s Ford-Lincoln-Mercury. Getting another set of carbs or working out some kind of deal with the Bunetic-rebuilt/refinished 2437/C1AE-AU secondaries and the 'unknown' 3487-S primary (which appears to be a replacement carb for 1965-67 Comet, Ford, Galaxie & Mercury, 352 & 390 w/ 2v Eng?.) would be Plan C, provided I could get Joe or someone else to redo another set for me. Flatrod, PM coming soon.
I have had broken ears welded back on a couple different times, some went good others didn't weld worth a ****. If it were me I would give a try! We bolted it down to a thick steel plate, welded sides first, then the bottom, then top. Kept wrapping to a minimum. Still need to surface when done.
The Jalopy Journal
