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Projects fixing a smashed 31 model A pickup cab.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tb33anda3rd, Mar 17, 2019.

  1. thanks, it is good to get back on it. the slacker has gotten to the point he will need the frame to keep going. I need to get the body stuff done for him.
     
  2. so I did a quick re-enactment of the process I used to make the end pieces.
    first I cut the width of the pieces on the table saw. IMG_9522.JPG
     
  3. then moved the fence over and set the blade to the proper height to make the small rabbit that goes against the steel header angle. IMG_9523.JPG
     
  4. I then raised the blade and set the angle to 30 degrees and cut the face side. IMG_9524.JPG
     
  5. OLDTINPUSHER
    Joined: Apr 28, 2009
    Posts: 573

    OLDTINPUSHER
    Member

    @tb33anda3rd Lots of talent in that work !! Thanks for saving another old truck.
     
  6. I then cut the pieces to length on the chop saw and measured for the rabbet on the ends. they had to be done on opposite sides. I set the blade height and cut it using the sliding miter, then cut the chunk off with the band saw. IMG_9525.JPG
    IMG_9526.JPG
     
  7. to cut the notch for the bolt hardware I used my home made router table. I made a mark where the board needed to stop and start and set the bit to the required height. I did it in a few passes. the final shape of the ends will be done with the belt sander after it is on the truck. IMG_9527.JPG IMG_9528.JPG IMG_9529.JPG
     
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  8. brad2v
    Joined: Jun 29, 2009
    Posts: 1,654

    brad2v
    Member

    Love it. Thanks for the education.
     
    tb33anda3rd and loudbang like this.
  9. Very nice work both wood and metal!
     
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  10. glued and clamped up the header pieces today. still need to make a center block which I will do tomorrow.
    I also need to do a little more straightening and welding to the header and visor. IMG_9633.JPG IMG_9632.JPG IMG_9631.JPG IMG_9630.JPG IMG_9629.JPG
     
  11. this is how I have been making my dimensional lumber. I snapped a straight chalk line. then cut it using the home/kit built, band saw Charlie picked out of the dump. IMG_9634.JPG IMG_9635.JPG
     
  12. I cut the piece I cut off in half to make the two pieces that will go above the door. I then cut it to size on the table saw. finished board on left. IMG_9636.JPG
     
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  13. both pieces cut. IMG_9637.JPG
     
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  14. I also cut a chunk out to make the two curved pieces over the back of the cab. I laid the pieces out as they grew, showing the milled pieces location. IMG_9638.JPG IMG_9639.JPG
     
    Stogy, Ron Funkhouser, brad2v and 7 others like this.
  15. I also made and glued the center board of the header. when it was dry I sanded all the seams and filed the holes out. ready to install once I prep the metal surfaces. IMG_9645.JPG IMG_9646.JPG
     
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  16. I straightened and patched the header cover. I squared up the corners and edges and bent a piece of sheet metal to fit. I used my brake to start the bends then used my vise to finish the bends. fitted and welded it IMG_9647.JPG IMG_9648.JPG IMG_9649.JPG IMG_9650.JPG IMG_9651.JPG IMG_9652.JPG in.
     
  17. That is some excellent information regarding the repair & replacement on the header. Thanks for sharing it!
     
  18. should get back to this.
     
  19. Charlie and I have been socially distancing so we have not worked on anything together. he wanted me to make a dash panel so he could paint it and put it together at his house. he dropped off a template and a piece of 20 gage sheet metal he marked up. his plan was to cut out the gage side of the fuel tank and screw this to the tank with his gages in it and still look like the original tank [sort of]. I decided to make a few changes I think he will be happy with. his panel did not go all the way to the door jamb and the bottom edge would have been just cut out. I also decided to do it in 18 gage. IMG_9775.JPG
     
  20. I retraced out his design on a longer piece, and allowed enough to make bends on the sides and tabs at the top to use the tank bolts to hold it in. I then bead rolled the lower edge and cut it out leaving about a half inch extra along the bottom edge. IMG_9776.JPG
    IMG_9777.JPG IMG_9778.JPG
     
  21. I then hammered and dollied the bottom edge over to form a return to stiffen up the panel. I then cleaned up the edges. IMG_9779.JPG IMG_9780.JPG IMG_9781.JPG IMG_9782.JPG
     
  22. I then folded up the tabs and the side pieces. IMG_9783.JPG IMG_9784.JPG
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2020
  23. it fit and has the look of the original tank. the bolts will come out and holes will be drilled in the tabs to hold it in after the final trimming. next step will be to drill the holes for the gages. IMG_9785.JPG
    IMG_9786.JPG IMG_9787.JPG IMG_9788.JPG
     
  24. cut open the tank to make room for the gages. about 3/4 of an inch of crud. IMG_9789.JPG IMG_9790.JPG
     
  25. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,897

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    :rolleyes:...Eweee...aka ala gurrrrose...betcha that smells a little rank...
     
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  26. it has no petroleum smell, just sort of "earthy"
     
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  27. sliceddeuce
    Joined: Aug 15, 2017
    Posts: 2,981

    sliceddeuce
    Member

  28. today I removed the rail under the windshield, fixed a couple of the trapped nuts, and sandblasted the back side and bottom. I noticed the edge of the tank was bent down. I always wondered what those wrenches were for. :);)I then put a coat of rust shield on. I also cut the rest of the tank out. IMG_9791.JPG IMG_9792.JPG IMG_9793.JPG IMG_9794.JPG IMG_9795.JPG
     
  29. with the rail out I could fit the dash board I made and mark for the holes. I also trimmed the angled ends and drilled and screwed it in. IMG_9797.JPG
    IMG_9798.JPG
     

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