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COE 1941 Ford COE build

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by wetskier2000, Jul 15, 2011.

  1. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,612

    kscarguy
    Member

    I like it. However, have you thought about adding a bead roll "bolt-on" trim to the sleeper to complete the lines?
     
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  2. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,867

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    Yup...
     
  3. OahuEli
    Joined: Dec 27, 2008
    Posts: 5,243

    OahuEli
    Member
    from Hawaii

    Me too. Ordered it on Scamazon.:D
    43a. bed w running boards n sleeper trim.jpg
     
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  4. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,867

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    Awesome!!! I was skeptical about the body line on the sleeper since the sleeper is slanted forward and the body line isn't square to the unit, but it plays pretty nicely IMHO. Thanks again, Eli!
     
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  5. OahuEli
    Joined: Dec 27, 2008
    Posts: 5,243

    OahuEli
    Member
    from Hawaii

    You're welcome! I'm having fun with your truck and its evolution.
     
  6. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,612

    kscarguy
    Member

  7. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,867

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    Hey Eli, you sitting around doing nothing??? :) Care to graft this onto the front of my truck in the stock bumper bracket openings?

    [​IMG]
    About this angle maybe??

    new_bed_fenderless.jpg
     
  8. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,867

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

  9. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,867

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    The dimensions of that race car bumper would make it only slightly taller than the gravel pan.
     
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  10. OahuEli
    Joined: Dec 27, 2008
    Posts: 5,243

    OahuEli
    Member
    from Hawaii

    I'm guessing this is about 4 feet wide?
     
  11. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,867

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    .... about 36". It's almost exactly the spacing of the stock bumper holes.
     
  12. OahuEli
    Joined: Dec 27, 2008
    Posts: 5,243

    OahuEli
    Member
    from Hawaii

    This should be kinda close...:eek::D
    46. Buford with teeth.jpg
     
  13. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,867

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    wow! thanks for doing that. I really like the fact that it's minimal and follows the lines of the grill. I think it's far better than the "similar pipe, dual oval (one on each side)" design that I was previously thinking about. I also put the stock bumper in place just to see and really didn't like that... My only major nit to this one is that it still strikes me as a race car bumper... Maybe tucked in a bit more might reduce that feeling... Obviously, as a functional piece, it's only going to keep a little parking lot bump out of the grill.
     
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  14. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,867

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    New license plates....
    New_plate.jpg
     
  15. OahuEli
    Joined: Dec 27, 2008
    Posts: 5,243

    OahuEli
    Member
    from Hawaii

    Me likee! That metalwork looks pretty cool! !'m guessing the tail lights will be behind the louvers?
     
  16. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,867

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    Thanks. You are an astute one, my friend... Not only are the lights behind the louvers, but the turn signals are sequential.
     
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  17. RMR&C
    Joined: Dec 26, 2009
    Posts: 4,959

    RMR&C
    Member
    from NW Montana

    Isn't it amazing how every horizontal surface attracts "stuff"? Quite a collection you have going in your trucks bed....:D
    I dig the plates!
     
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  18. OahuEli
    Joined: Dec 27, 2008
    Posts: 5,243

    OahuEli
    Member
    from Hawaii

    Moved it back about 3 or 4 inches. How is the rest of the bed construction coming along? 47. Buford with smaller teeth.jpg
     
  19. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,867

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    WOW! What a difference.. I really like it... thanks... I haven't made much progress on the bed lately since it's been time to get the docks and boats in the water. Latest new bed challenge has been making the inner fenders that connect the 2016 Ford bed fenderwells to the new flat side panels. They are right angle, curved pieces. It seems like I get to a certain point with the shrinker and it doesn't want to shrink any further. Does this make sense in some way??
     
  20. OahuEli
    Joined: Dec 27, 2008
    Posts: 5,243

    OahuEli
    Member
    from Hawaii

    I suppose like anything, everything has its limits, even shrinkage.
     
  21. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,867

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    Local cruise night... now I have to take the bed apart for primer... :(

    [​IMG]
     
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  22. Metal Mover
    Joined: Aug 9, 2011
    Posts: 95

    Metal Mover
    Member
    from Jamul CA

    looking good from where I'm sitting
     
  23. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,867

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    Half my parts back...

    Buford_back_in_Black.jpg
     
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  24. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,867

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    The rest of my parts are back... I need to take another damn picture... sorry guys...

    I talked to a couple body shops about possibly finishing the body work and painting... both are into restorations and seem pretty straightforward and down to earth.... Neither will commit to a price and simply toss out huge numbers and say "May not be enough, we won't know until we get further along"... I'm just not that guy with a bottomless, wide open checkbook that can stomach a 20K or 40K check to a body shop to "start". I'm thinking there is alot more sanding in my future....

    Anyone used a filler called Glazing putty?
     
  25. Others may have more experience, but from what I've been told, glazing putty is only for filling tiny sanding scratches and bubbles in the filler. It is applied just before final sanding of the final coat of primer. Not something to use if you need to build thickness.
     
  26. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,867

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    Bed parts back on... still some bed rails to figure out...

    Buford_New_Bed_at_target.jpg
     
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  27. JOYFLEA
    Joined: Jan 22, 2013
    Posts: 2,056

    JOYFLEA
    Member

    Looks great Skier . Labor is the big thing . Do as much metal work as you can . I try to limit my bondo to less than 1/16” 1/32 better . Primmer and build up, heavy sander primer , sand a lot . Then hit any really smal imperfections with the glaze . Blocked and sealed . Paint and clear coat or use a single stage color . Materials for mine for paint and metal work I estimate at close to $1800
    , good luck . I hate sanding . Love and kisses , Blue .
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2020
  28. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,867

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    first p*** at the body line extension...
    buford_New_body_line1.jpg Buford_new_body_line2.jpg
     
    OahuEli likes this.
  29. Does the line actually drop down as it crosses the sleeper, or is the light grey paint messing with my eyes?
     
  30. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,867

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    I wondered the same thing... string and straight edge both say it's in line... But it sure doesn't look it.. I think the grey paint that is parallel with the sleeper makes it look like the body line ain't straight which isn't parallel with the sleeper on purpose...
     

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