I have put a Cadillac 500ci engine and Turbo 400 trans in my '49 Hudson Super. I think, with tunnel adjustments I could possibly use a 0ne-piece driveshaft (60" long) however I doubt I will be able to lower the car much if I need to after I install the Chevy rear and put it on the ground. Can anyone suggest a two piece driveshaft and carrier bearing I could use, probably no wider than 3" ? Thanks in advance.
If you are looking for a common two piece shaft that may be close enough in length. Try looking at 2WD long bed S-10 P/Us. They used a two piece shaft and carrier bearing. Wheel base on those trucks was 123"
I used to convert my Stude hotrods from two piece to one piece shafts when I started upping the power and really getting rough. I was concerned about the carnage if I ever broke something. The carrier was right about inline with the rear of the front bench. Thats where the driveshaft would rub the floor if I lowered the car. I saw-cut away a portion of the transmission tunnel about 6-8 or so inches wide under the seat to keep the new heavy duty driveshaft from rubbing. Once I did a few tests to confirm the driveshaft now had room, I screwed down a portion of driveshaft tunnel from some donor chevy or something. I just brushed on a bit of undercoating, then screwed it down. Sealed nicely. When I laid the carpet back down over the new hump, you couldn't tell I changed anything. I have probably not helped you much. I just wanted to say it worked with my Studes. I dono if Hudson used sharper angles or tighter spaces to make it more difficult. But it works great on Studies I remember seeing a lot of junkyard 60s Chevy trucks with some pretty stout looking carrier bearing and shafts. Maybe a transplant from a full sized Chevy pickup back when they used 2 piece? WHY BE ORDINARY ?
Not sure if it helps but I remember 70's era Cadillacs had constant velocity u-joints on the driveshaft.
I am using the Cadillac's long-tailshaft TH400. I am coming to the decision to go two-piece after trying my best to cut frame crossmembers and floor tunnel metal. I have the trans tunnel cut and raised enough, all the way back to the rearend yoke, but I'm afraid the 2-3" clearance is not enough for road holes and bumps. So I decided that if I mount the two piece, I will only have movement after the carrier bearing and I won't have to worry about much clearance thus the tunnel is lower and intrudes less into the seat placement. If someone has installed a two-piece in their car, could you tell me what was the requirement for mounting it....like , is the first driveshaft mounted level with the frame and when I cut the driveshaft, is there an ideal length to put the carrier bearing at or a proportion of front to rear shaft sizes? Thank for your help!
Are you running airbags or lowered suspension? if so then i doubt a single piece drive shaft will work. I had mine custom made up in my 49 Hudson thats running a 9 inch rear, 700R4 trans. I can dig out the details of what parts i used if you want. But since im on airbags and the rear part may differ from what you need as I have more travel to deal with. I looked at heaps of different drive shafts before going custom. Holden had a few. Landdrovers also. Toyota hiace. but by the time I got it all customized, balanced and made up it was deemed all new parts rated for the HP and torque would be the best option. I also run multiple drive shaft loops. further details on my build thread in sig that i have been to lazy to update lately.
I am not using airbags and would like to remain at stock or a tiny bit lower height. If I cut into and raise the original crossmember under the back seat and right before the rear, I create almost three inches above the nose of the differential. However, if the stance needs to be lowered in the slightest way, I might hit the floor on a tough bump or pothole!
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