Betcha a back brace that if you asked around and spread the word somebody local has one sitting around and in their way you could buy for 1/2 or less of the cost of a new one. Stock car or drag racer getting out of the hobby etc.
Here ya go buddy, make a "T" bar with motor mounts on the ends and also a trans mount. Put different holes on trans end for various transmission lengths....
A T-bar setup was what I had in mind for the corvettes. But a plastic block could also be used on other jobs.
But $450 is about $350 too much. You could make the basic shape out of cardboard and duct tape. You don't need all the details. That sounds like a hokey idea but for $2 it's worth a try. Maybe.
Summit sells brand new P-Ayr short block models for $299. You don't need the long block one for frame work. If it's your job and not your hobby just charge $50 more per job. It's hard finding good frame guys. Get paid.
Who, me? Yeah. You mean "Amortize..."? You're talking about spending money and making money. That's cool. People do that all the time. I'm talking about " Whatever works". I do that all the time.
I had a friend once that had several motor mount fixtures. They amounted to a piece of tube with the motor mounts stuck on the end. He could set up a chassis to take a dozen different motor mount setups and didn't need anyone to help him. be a pretty easy setup of you had a chassis that was already to accept a mill.
Im not going to lecture you on how you should lift your iron block because that's not what you asked for, but I'll give you this advice. If you buy a plastic block from a swap meet just look over the piece pretty good and possibly even try an intake manifold on it before laying out the cash. I bought this "Russell" brand plastic block with intake holes, timing chain cover holes, bellhousing holes, fuel pump holes, etc. The problem was when I got it home none of those holes lined up to anything, there's not even a pad to mount engine mounts to, it's completely smooth, the block itself is an inch and a half shorter than the intake manifold ! So buyer beware...lol
I think that Russell block is a store display to show off their shiney Chinese chrome and braided hose covers. P-Ayr blocks fit.
I don't think it's about the "basic shape" as it is about having the exact placement of bolt holes, etc. I can tell, I'm about to install a SBC in a different chassis, and having an exact mockup block that I could bolt mounts to and maneuver by hand due to the light weight would be immensely helpful so that I could weld the mounts in, remove the mockup block, and drop in the real thing.
Yes I know the P-Ayr blocks are great but be wary of off brands, here's me and a P-Ayr block back in the early 90's, I'd like to do this to that Russell block then smash it on the ground...lol
Yeah, I thought of the t-bar fixture before anyone suggested it. And he said he had thought about doing that. I was just thinking that a cardboard (accurate dimension) model would be useful for checking clearances. All I know is that I designed and made my own motor mounts by making a cardboard template of the frame mounting pads and then used the negative of that template tacked to the edge of the table that the block was on to design the brackets.
I bought plastic short block a guy had blown up. I bored and put a plastic sleeve in it . Works great.
I have used the plastic blocks many times for setup--Easy on the old back. A friend has many of them for different brands etc. Sure helps when building alone. Used the plastic block on at least 8-9 40 Fords for setup with a gutted trans case.
I have a sliced up (6 cyl) block. It has the main caps and motor mount bosses. I use it A LOT. For oil pan and lube system mock up. For motor mounts in chassis. For driveline alignment with the frame and rear end.
I spent maybe 30 minutes with an air arc on a 350 block; never weighed it but it is a lot less than 100 lbs. I left the dowel pins and and a couple head bolt holes so I can install the heads and exhaust. Distributor, water pump, timing cover, fuel pump, side and front mounts all fit. Probably a little sturdier than plastic; maybe holds it shape better too; don't know. Been used quite a few times between me and friends. I think that 1/2 hour was well spent.
Kinda like stick welding but uses a carbon electrode and the stinger has a port that compressed air blows through that blows the molten slag away.
Why not easily fabricate something like this (I used a drawing app...but you get the idea). Some 4"X4"s, couple of 2"X4"s, top could be a couple 2"X8"s together...whatever you have. Just an "A" frame like a large saw horse on casters, maybe 8ft tall. Use HF electric winch or come-a-long. Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk
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