I just realized it has been three months since I posted an update. I finished the body work and put on the last coat of high build primer. I think I ended up block sanding and primering 4 or 5 times. It was worth it in the long run and it looks good. I upended the body and finished the welding and sealing the bottom of the body and got it painted black. Got the inside and firewall painted black. I got sidetracked for a few weeks on a new to me late model commuter car I bought at a salvage auction and fixed up. It gave me a chance to practice color sanding and polishing. I just today finished up a last light block sand and got the body cleaned up for final paint and got the inside of my gutters pre-painted that the spray gun cant get to. I have been thinking about the motor lately and how clean it looked under the valley pan. The trans that had come with the motor had a rebuild tag on is so that got me thinking that maybe the motor had been rebuilt as well so I decided to pull one of the heads off to find .030 over pistons so I hope it will need more of a freshening up then a complete rebuild.
I am using TCP Global Acrylic Urethane 1710 Royal Maroon. I wanted to have them mix me up a old Ford maroon but it was about twice the cost for the exact same product as one of their standard colors they had.
I got the color sanding and polish done a couple week ago. It a scary thing to start the color sanding for the first time thinking the whole time that I was going to sand through the paint. It was well worth the effort and I am very happy with the way it turned out.
I want to get started on getting the chassis back together but have been messing with engine parts. I talked to Tim at Hanford Auto about doing my engine. I hope to get it in to him in a couple months when he has an opening. In the mean time I rebuilt my starter and got my tri power Rochester carbs done. I am using the Vintage Speed kit with the secondary bases. Sent from my Pixel 3a using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Got most of my wood in. I had to do a little trimming and shimming for it to fit. I am doing a roll down rear window and had bought a complete kit from Brattons but am finding out most of the holes in the drip pan don't line up with the wood that came in the same kit so will have to modify the drip pan some. Sent from my Pixel 3a using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Great pictures! They will help me immensely with the wood structure for the roof of my car. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I am beyond envious as I have been stalled now for over a year while we move and build a new shop. Love your build. Keep up the great work.
I would love to have a real shop space but am grateful for the old two car garage out behind the house. I have been working on the car as much as I can as I am anticipating going back to work full time soon so my project pace will drastically slow down. Sent from my Pixel 3a using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Stupid work. Always getting in the way......... Awesome work, and can't wait to see the finished project.
I came up with some cheap roller tires/wheels. A compact spare tire assembly at my local LKQ pick a part is only 15 bucks each. The drawback for me is that they are not in my bolt pattern but I figured I could fix that. The back ones are 29" tall and out of mid 2000's MB ML series SUVs. The front ones are 25" tall and are out off mid 2000's BMW 5 series. The fronts I hogged out a unilug type slot then welded in large washers on the back side as a new lug seat. I was going to do the same thing to the rear wheels but quickly discovered that they are actually aluminum which I don't have ability to weld.. I was able to hog out a a unilug type slot then bevel a seat for the lugs to set on. These are definitely not for driving around on but should make good skinny rollers.
The seat is a Dodge Caravan middle seat. Don't remember what year. Sent from my Pixel 3a using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Got my T5 trans rebuilt. It a combo of parts from three different trans. 88 V8 Camaro trans with S10 tail shaft housing and Mustang top cover that has a neutral safety switch. I had to relocate the output shaft speedo gear. You also have to add a notch to the S10 shift rail for the Mustang neutral safety switch to work. Sent from my Pixel 3a using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
