Good evening I am currently building up a Ford model a Ch***is and running gear, with a 27 ford model T roadster body on. I am using the Ford 4 banger engine to begin with as to get it registered here in the UK . As I would like to v8 it in the future and I don't have the rod brakes. I have brought everything but the master cylinder to fit juice brakes. I would like to know how other people have mounted the master cylinder to work with the stock model A pedal box. I have been googling, searching, reading books and asking about but I have not turned up anything as such, Either the posts are full of people discussing use of Juice vs Rod brakes or any guides showing you what people have done have dead links or photo buckets faded pictures you can't see very well and pictures speak a 1000 words and also a lot easier to have in front of you when making one. Any help would greatly be appreciated Thanks Stephen
I'm using similar to Denis4x4 except mine has a "stand" between crossmember and m/c. Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
A 3 inch piece of pipe with a flange on each side to mount the master cylinder off the crossmember a little bit to make room for the push rod. I don't have any pictures on this computer, but if you go back to the thread on my pickup it is on there.
Some guys weld a bracket to the brake cross piece. I simplified matters and welded the bracket right to the brake pedal. Distance from center of pivot point to bracket and pedal is 6:1, as I recall. Moved battery to trunk and fabricated an MC mount directly behind pedal. Connect the two with adjustable rod. Mustang drum/drum MC, ~1968.
To start I'll try to set the stage and give a description. I have a B OHV Banger in my '29 A Roadster with an A frame. The battery is relocated to the trunkIt has a B pan and B transmission. It has B front engine mount and a rear mount on the transmission. The bellhousing does not mount to the frame so those mount holes were unused. The B transmission doesn't have a pedal cross shaft so had to figure out where the A pedals needed to be located for the clutch and the brakes. I used the unused holes in the bellhousing for a bracket mount for the cross shaft on the transmission side.....and to attach the transmission side of the master cylinder bracket t.... I'll go take some photos.... but I used a master cylinder off of a '53, '54 Ford Pick Up...that had the right size cylinder bore ratio for the wheel cylinders. Made a bracket/plate out of 3/16" x 4" material that mounted behind, but parallel to, the pedal cross shaft. My frame is boxed, so I welded a tab to the frame to bolt the bracket/plate to. The other side attached to the bracket mentioned above, I wanted to be able to not have the commitment of having it directly welded to the frame. I hole sawed the plate for the master cylinder, locating it centered in line with the mechanical lever on the cross shaft and low enough that it would center on the eye of the lever. I had relocated the lever so it was 90 degrees to the plate when the brake pedal was all the way back. I made a push rod using the original mechanical brake clevis to attach to the brake cross shaft lever. Some of this may apply or may not to your application. I tried searching the HAMB before I did this project but came up with not much so it is probably good to have a thread on this. Post so we can see what YOU do. Good luck,
Well my car is driven hard in the salt, dirt and mud so it has signs of use.... Notice the bracket that hugs the transmission, it supports the cross shaft and M/C bracket/plate Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Cross shaft mounted on frame side so I could take it out and throw it away if it didn't work. I took a shaft off an A bell housing. The bracket that hugs the transmission on the bell housing. I just heated it with a torch and bent it up in my Big ***ed vise. Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I built a similar ride to yours last year...I’m still running rebuilt mechanical brakes with no issues so far...I took it out cruising twice already this weekend....I’m building another banger powered rpu right now..this one I’m gonna do juice breaks and a hopped up banger .I’m gonna use this battery box /master cylinder kit - http://www.bolingbrothers.com/model-a-master-cylinder-battery-box-***embly/ unless I find something better or cheaper...this one lets you use your stock break pedal...check out the page it might give you some ideas...
my setup has the master cylinder tied to the battery box. You see the bellcrank has a pivot mounted on the box. The mc mounts low facing to the rear. I could not find a photo of the mc and mount. You might go to FordBarn and do a search for more information and pics. this is what I have, the pic is from Bolling brother’s site.
Evening, sorry for the late replies the misses made me clear out the front room and paint it, had to take my pc out to be able to do that only just got it back in but thank you for all your replies, the posts have been very helpful. dose anyone have the measurement of the arm on the Bolling brothers mount? as i could possibly just make a mount to hold the MC off the side of the gearbox as I have my battery located in the boot anyway. Yet again thank you for all your replies.
That's cool. are the brake pedals Cast iron or? I'm not sure been told cast iron can be horrible to weld. Thanks
Ford pedals of that era are forged steel. It welds nicely. I cut my backet off a junk F1 pedal so it would be similar steel.
Is the lever arm for the Brakes on the battery 1:1 ratio? if so I could work a length out Thanks Stephen
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